Doing a 5.0 swap into my e30.

[mechanicduo]

I will be doing a v8 swap to my e30 cause my mustang got totaled. I will like to have a better understanding since this is my first swap. I have a windsor 5.0 v8 and i will like to have some help or links on what else i need to get? Thank you #r3vlimited

[e30_302]

The guide's on here, check page 2.

[jalopi]

make sure you get an accusump, even then your engine might not survive with the front sump

that thread is a disorganized clusterfuck, so if you have any specific questions post em here

but my advice? don't 302 swap the e30, buy a ranger and swap that. even with just heads and a cam, i was overheating all the time (had a 3" radiator too), breaking driveline components left and right (axles, diff cover), routing the exhaust is a bitch, dealing with the manual brakes sucked and unless you make your own mounts you're gonna have to modify them - almost everyone i know who's done a 302 swap with parts from e30v8.com has had to modify their mounts in some way/shape/form

now don't get me wrong, when everything's actually working right the v8 e30 is awesome - but when it's not (which is most of the time) it's nothing but headaches. do yourself a favor and put the driveline into a car that can actually handle the power/size of the engine

[e30_302]

What he said.

[garretvs]

We use our E30 as a DD; everything works (cruise, A/C) except the SI indicator and mpg numbers on the OBC. Otherwise, trouble free for 7 years.

[jalopi]

as nice as your car is garret, there's a big difference between streeting a car and racing one. every single v8 swapped car at the tracks i go to, whether it's a LS/ford/BMW, have cooling issues. for the 4/6 cylinder guys, the only ones who have cooling issues are the ones with monster turbos putting down big power numbers

lets go over a few key issues i have with the v8 swaps, this is even accounting for your car

*you live in the state with some of the lowest average temperatures in the continental united states; i'm sure you guys get hot days every now and then, but when you have 95*+ days weeks in a row you really start to notice the flaws in your cooling system. most e30 v8 swaps require that you use a front mounted pusher fan, which those are less efficient than puller fans and do become a restriction at higher speeds

*all the old style BMW engines (m20, m30, ect) were mostly designed to have a front sump oil pan. i haven't really heard of oil starvation issues with them, even with their front sump design. LS and ford engines were designed from the ground up to be rear sump engines and they have MANY issues even with the rear sump which are only exaggerated with the front sump we have to use with our cars

*much more thought went into the mounting system for your LS kit (as well as others) - this is mainly due to the popularity of the LS and how easy it adapts to different engine bays. the 302, on the other hand, has a very awkward mount boss on the block and requires a mount with a poor design when used in a low clearance engine bay. only one company has mass produced mounting kits for the 302 swap and they have been plagued with QC issues

*i assume there's a good reason that you developed your second differential mount? i assume it's so that too much load wasn't placed on the single mount (note: i'm not assuming, i know because my own car broke the diff mount ear)

*as nicely designed as your remote mount brake booster is, it's still sketchy as fuck. if anything in your system fails, boom you can't stop your car any more. there's a good reason why BMW doesn't use them any more - aside from the added cost to the braking system, adding a linkage into such a critical system is just a bad idea.

that's all i can think of... for now. in any case, using almost any different vehicle for a v8 swap eliminates nearly every single negative bullet point i've just listed

[e30_302]

I'm still surprised you had so much trouble with cooling. That's one thing that was never even remotely an issue for me. I do run a big oil cooler though.

[jalopi]

i guess the core difference was the kinds of racing we do with our cars - you've got mid to high RPMs at high-ish speeds (and good, straight airflow through the radiator) whereas with my style of racing it's mostly high RPMs at relatively low speeds

i never had any cooling issues when put-putting around the street. but what's the sense in v8 swapping your car if that's all you're gonna use it for?

[tigerblood]

5.0 swap link

Could someone please post a link for the 5.0 swap guide, cant seem to find it on page 2, thanks

[Reyhan335]

try it man, look at the guide and keep us updated.
im putting an ls1 in mine with the garret kit so ill be right there with you

[e30_302]

Could someone please post a link for the 5.0 swap guide, cant seem to find it on page 2, thanks

Then keep going back pages. The 302 SBF is an outdated platform. I'd look elsewhere for a swap candidate.

[eurotrash]

Im one of the few that have actually done a 302 swap (not a 5.0). I was able to get it to cool just fine but i removed the stock core support and used a bigger aftermarket 3 core rad. I also mounted a taurus fan with volvo fan controler and an e36 2 speed. coolant temp switch. I only had the extra room for the taurus fan because i built my own removable core(which also allows you to pull the engine straight out which is nice). I aslo nvr saw the 2nd speed on the fan because even drifting in 90deg weather (which at evergreen means sitting in line idlingwith zero air being pushed through. Alot) the taurus fan flowed more then enough to drop temps right away.

With exception of the engine management the sbf is no more outdated tech then an ls. It uses the same general pushrod design as any other non overhead cam v8.

Axels and diffs are gonna be the weekpoint of any v8 swap so i see that as a non issue.