M60B40 wiring question

[J_K]

Hi guys.
I just helped a mate fit an M62B44 with an M60 wiring harness into a corolla that's been BMWised..
Don't ask...
I've got it all running for the most part but I'm trying to anticipate problems before they happen.
The car isn't going to be road legal and just used for drifting so it's not going to have any clocks apart from aftermarket rev/coolant temp/oil pressure gauges and I'm worried that it'll go into limp or limit the RPM if it doesn't have a vehicle speed input.
Can I just jump the tacho pulse to vehicle speed or do I need to do something a bit more complicated?

I'm asking here as throughout all the research I've done on making this thing run, this place has proved to have the most and best information out there.

I personally have an E36 M3 drift car, E61 530D road car and I'm building a Z3m track car so I am a BMW man.

Here's a video of the first start..
Fuel pump wasn't running at the time so I'd just pressurised the fuel system before hand hence the roughness on revving.
With the fuel pump running, it sounded sweet and revved really cleanly!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7-QYBrHnV7Q

[J_K]

No one??

I'm trying to avoid paying €250 for a Kempower speed signal generator.

I'm sure in the hours of reading I've done I saw someone say that you can run the diff speed signal with a resistor inline to get the correct signal.
Can't for the life of me, find it now...

[J_K]

Hah. Knew I'd seen it somewhere before.
And it was on this forum..

For those not using a stock dash, here is some info to make sure the DME is getting a required speed signal from the diff:

The diff uses a reed switch (magnetically driven switch), rather than an inductive pickup or hall sensor. So, the switch opens/closes as the teeth of the reluctor (9) pass by the switch mounted on the diff. If you check out an e30/e34/e32 ETM manual, you will see that the instrument cluster is providing power, and also providing a path back to ground. However, it is providing power through a pull-up resistor, of unspecified resistance. The R-value of the resistor in this case is determined by the amount of current that one would prefer (or prefer not) to sink at the DME. So, choosing a relatively high pull-up (3.3 kilo-ohm) should only cause about 4mA of current to flow. By limiting charge flow, the waveform will be better, especially as switching times (higher speed) get short.

Anyhow, to create your circuit, run 12-volts through a 3.3Kohm resistor, then to the diff (red/brown on e30), and then connect the other (brown) wire coming off the diff to ground. Run another wire from the diff side of the resistor to your speed input at the DME (or pin 14 of the X20 connector, which would also be pin 14 on the C101/e30 side of the world). Then enjoy full-RPM range in all gears.

[J_K]

OK.
Another question.
What do I do with the O2 heater wire? Does it need a constant switched live or does the DME turn it on and off?

[J_K]

Thanks for all your help guys. We managed to get it sorted.

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10153736799721383