Not Another Cheap V8 Swap... (Pic Heavy)

[90e30ls]

That goes without saying ... lol

I'm really looking forward to how it sounds under throttle. I'm basically going with the same exhaust so it should give me an idea of what mine will sound like.

[Madhatter]

Normal for the yoke, the seal runs on the yoke, so when it's out it'll leak out the back of the box. Getrags like bmws use have an output shaft in place with the flange, so it doesn't leak from the box as there is nothing to leak from.

If you (or anyone) has problems shifting at high speed, try changing your master. It has worked for Commodores we have here which have a 3/4" clutch master standard, changing to a larger 7/8" one seems to solve the problem. Also to note, the internal slave setup on a tremec is not simply a slide it on proposition. They are designed to be shimmed to suit different flywheels, different slave heights, travel, belhousing depth, etc. Usually described in detail with instructions that come with the slaves, shows you where to measure from to check your height. Then you may need to play around with shims to get it right. Depending on how far out it is, can cause slow shifting right through to not engaging at all. Unless you have dealt with top loader transmissions or internal slaves like this before, it's easily overlooked by lots of people.

[Q8y_drifter]

Normal for the yoke, the seal runs on the yoke, so when it's out it'll leak out the back of the box. Getrags like bmws use have an output shaft in place with the flange, so it doesn't leak from the box as there is nothing to leak from.

If you (or anyone) has problems shifting at high speed, try changing your master. It has worked for Commodores we have here which have a 3/4" clutch master standard, changing to a larger 7/8" one seems to solve the problem. Also to note, the internal slave setup on a tremec is not simply a slide it on proposition. They are designed to be shimmed to suit different flywheels, different slave heights, travel, belhousing depth, etc. Usually described in detail with instructions that come with the slaves, shows you where to measure from to check your height. Then you may need to play around with shims to get it right. Depending on how far out it is, can cause slow shifting right through to not engaging at all. Unless you have dealt with top loader transmissions or internal slaves like this before, it's easily overlooked by lots of people.

Should a standard GM slave, GM T56 coupled to a GM LS7 clutch/flywheel/PP be shimmed as well? I'm currently not running any shims and using a 3/4" master. Seems to shift ok this way but then again the clutch is brand new and is still wearing in.

[Madhatter]

I know the clutch and flywheel of the ls7 is different, not just in size but also the face where the clutch disc sits. I have no idea if they use a different slave because of it, I'd probably guess they do and you can't really assume parts are the same unless it's the slave to match the clutch setup. That's how they are often packaged, to match the height of the clutch. Might pay to do some research in case you run into trouble. You are simply going to have to measure as it's the only way to be sure.

[bmk]

Normal for the yoke, the seal runs on the yoke, so when it's out it'll leak out the back of the box. Getrags like bmws use have an output shaft in place with the flange, so it doesn't leak from the box as there is nothing to leak from.

If you (or anyone) has problems shifting at high speed, try changing your master. It has worked for Commodores we have here which have a 3/4" clutch master standard, changing to a larger 7/8" one seems to solve the problem. Also to note, the internal slave setup on a tremec is not simply a slide it on proposition. They are designed to be shimmed to suit different flywheels, different slave heights, travel, belhousing depth, etc. Usually described in detail with instructions that come with the slaves, shows you where to measure from to check your height. Then you may need to play around with shims to get it right. Depending on how far out it is, can cause slow shifting right through to not engaging at all. Unless you have dealt with top loader transmissions or internal slaves like this before, it's easily overlooked by lots of people.

I had this problem when I resurfaced the flywheel, I had to shim it. However I still have issues shifting at high speeds, the clutch master is Brand new e30 and slave is also new. What other options are there for clutch master that will bolt up like oem?

Edit:
Found this on a bimmer forums e36 lsx swap. From what I can tell the e36 and e30 clutch masters are the same with the e36 being plastic and e30 metal


"The bore diameter of the stock e36 clutch master cylinder
.716" is the bore diameter

it puts it somewhere between the 5/16" & 3/4" aftermarket master cylinders.

it's 18.11mm.

I'm thinking i'm going to scale down to a 3/4" master cylinder because pedal effort on the 7/8" is too much. I suspect that as it is still larger than stock and not likely to flex compared to the stock plastic one and of course not old like my current one. Hoping that the ls7 clutch pairing will feel pretty good with that combo. the stock fbody clutch MC is 3/4" with 1" of travel - the wilwood unit has 1.12" of travel. I still need to research what the ls7 based vette's run for a MC as that would be the best one to mimic.

further data - looks like i'll be going with the 13/16" to have head room compared to the stock unit"

[E30Whore]

R3V Update: The car has been at Mayhem this whole time. The hold has been waiting on the 750i MC that I ordered from ECS. It was back ordered for two weeks which set us back. Everything else (mechanically) has been addressed and I have a appointment this Friday to tune it. Fingers crossed all goes well.

I'll keep you guys posted.

In the meantime, I ordered/received a bunch of goodies to address cosmetics [emoji16][emoji16][emoji33]

I'll snap some pix for you guys later tonight or tomorrow once I get everything opened up.

Cheers


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[z28]

Nice to see an update. Why are you switching to the 750i MC? Do you have the part number for the MC? Im using your thread for reference for when I do my swap.

[E30Whore]

Nice to see an update. Why are you switching to the 750i MC? Do you have the part number for the MC? Im using your thread for reference for when I do my swap.

I purchased it from ECS tuning. Went with the 750i because I'm using the RX7 caliper upgrade. I know there is some mixed information on this topic but from what I can gather, the 750i MC is best suited for these calipers. Since my stock one failed, figured now is the time to do it. I'll post my impressions after first drive and again after long term use.





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[z28]

Cool, thanks.

[shiboujin]

I figured you'd want a smaller bore not a larger one. Even with the RX7 upgrade, without a booster, you'll want all the help you can get. The 750 master (correct me if I'm wrong) is a larger bore. like 25/23mm instead of the stock 22/20 or something like that.

[E30Whore]

I figured you'd want a smaller bore not a larger one. Even with the RX7 upgrade, without a booster, you'll want all the help you can get. The 750 master (correct me if I'm wrong) is a larger bore. like 25/23mm instead of the stock 22/20 or something like that.

That's correct, it's larger. The E32 bore is bigger, so you're pushing more fluid for a given distance > more braking force and a "harder" pedal.

It will not increase my stopping distance but will assist my peddle feel. I'll still have to lay on the brakes but they are manual so that's what I'd expect regardless. By going this route, I should eliminate the mushy or soft feel common with bigger calipers.



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[flyboyx]

That's correct, it's larger. The E32 bore is bigger, so you're pushing more fluid for a given distance > more braking force and a "harder" pedal.

It will not increase my stopping distance but will assist my peddle feel. I'll still have to lay on the brakes but they are manual so that's what I'd expect regardless. By going this route, I should eliminate the mushy or soft feel common with bigger calipers.



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why not use the sikky hydroboost unit? it mounts on the outside of the firewall. if i had the option of using something along those lines as opposed to manual brakes, i would certainly choose boosted. if its a cost issue, they will sell the adapters they made for both ends for less than 500.00 bucks.

i'm looking pretty seriously at using that gm hydroboost unit in a remote location under the hood with my s62 swap because there is no room for the booster on the firewall with that engine.

[E30Whore]

why not use the sikky hydroboost unit? it mounts on the outside of the firewall. if i had the option of using something along those lines as opposed to manual brakes, i would certainly choose boosted. if its a cost issue, they will sell the adapters they made for both ends for less than 500.00 bucks.



i'm looking pretty seriously at using that gm hydroboost unit in a remote location under the hood with my s62 swap because there is no room for the booster on the firewall with that engine.

I'm not stressing the boosterless setup. Sikky is who recommends I go boosterless, said it adds to the driving experience of the car. If it sucks, I'll by the hydroboost Kit. Otherwise, I'll enjoy what I have


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[Reyhan335]

I'm not stressing the boosterless setup. Sikky is who recommends I go boosterless, said it adds to the driving experience of the car. If it sucks, I'll by the hydroboost Kit. Otherwise, I'll enjoy what I have


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Well said.


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[flyboyx]

it adds to the driving experience of the car. If it sucks, I'll by the hydroboost Kit. Otherwise, I'll enjoy what I have


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Well said.


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ok man. let me know how that works out for you.


i know sikky charges 1300 bucks for the setup and that is a pricey pill to swallow. however, you can buy the firewall to gm booster bracket from them for 2-300 bucks. the booster to master cylinder bracket can be purchased from eBay or sikky for about 100 bucks. the booster can be had for about 130 dollars. you can make the hoses for less than 100. i am saying that for the same price you can have a boosted brake system instead of screwing around with that willwood bullshit. in the end it is your car, so you can do with it as you wish. that line about "adding to the driving experience" is one of the silliest things i have read on r3v. (no offense and with all due respect of course). i honestly hope you enjoy it and that it works well for you. personally, i'm not messing around with that crap. i don't want a race car. i am building a street car with refinements such as power steering, power brakes, and air conditioning.