M62B44,M60B40 heads & cams, Eaton M112 (now with NOS)

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • The Dark Side of Will
    replied
    Originally posted by Mykk540i/6

    Those are E46 M3 S65 exhaust manifolds. The cylinder spacing is perfect for the M6x, the ports and flanges are too but a few of the flanges need to be re-clocked to bolt up to the M60 heads. There is a high chance they won't even fit in the body of the car.
    E46 M3/S65 manifolds? Where does one even buy those?

    Leave a comment:


  • Mykk540i/6
    replied
    Originally posted by zerotohero
    What a fantastic build.

    A couple of questions if I may?

    Why did you heatwrap the waterpipes beneath the intake? Is this to protect the pipes or is it to limit heat getting into the intakes and supercharger?
    I figure less heat in the valley the better, although I bet the difference is negligible.

    Originally posted by zerotohero
    And what throttle body are you using? The throttle body from the n62b48 is an upgrade from the m60/m62 ones but you might want bigger again?
    The jag inlet duct has a 75mm port in it and a 75mm throttle body from a late 90's mustang appears to be the best cable driven option I've found. Although the bolt hole spacing needs modified to fit the mustang TB.

    Leave a comment:


  • zerotohero
    replied
    What a fantastic build.

    A couple of questions if I may?

    Why did you heatwrap the waterpipes beneath the intake? Is this to protect the pipes or is it to limit heat getting into the intakes and supercharger?

    And what throttle body are you using? The throttle body from the n62b48 is an upgrade from the m60/m62 ones but you might want bigger again?

    Leave a comment:


  • Mykk540i/6
    replied
    Plugging along.

    Driveshaft safety loop & anti-roll bar install on the rear:



    In-tank EFI pump, fuel level sending unit. Made hard lines & braided lines with AN fittings for the send and return.







    Made the skeleton to mount the steering gearbx for the cowl steering. Still need to gusset, brace & support the arm















    Finish sectioning the grill to the proper height for the shortened grill insert.









    The body panels are currently away for paint. So I'm tackling other small projects.

    Once the steering gear was hund the upside down M3 manifolds pointed directly at the steering arm. So I started exploring other header options. The M60 world for headers is very limited and/or too expensive. So I'm started looking at other engines that have similar cylinder spacing, exhaust port spacing and similar flanges that can bolt down with modification. I've found a series of Ford engines that match the BMW engine specs close enough to work, here is a set of 2011-2014 Mustang 5.0 headers, flipped upside down naturally.







    The passenger side fits beautifully. The drivers side, not so much. It sits a bit wonky, won't clear the side of the body and of course the tubes line directly up with the steering arm.





    I've got a few more options on the way to try out before frankensteining my own drivers side header together using tubes from the headers that didn't fit.

    That's where I'm currently at. I'm getting ready to start wiring the project and the EFI/Engine in next couple weeks. Of course I'm highly anticipating the return of the painted body pieces.

    Leave a comment:


  • rzerob
    replied
    Subscribed. I don't know how I missed this build before today.

    Leave a comment:


  • Gtem2017
    replied
    Oh man it's looking good.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mykk540i/6
    replied
    A few updates on the T project:

    After a hiatus I'm back at it. Losing one shop space, putting everything into storage, a brutal winter and now a new shop space. I'm happy to report there's more getting done and the car build appears to be on track:







































    Leave a comment:


  • Mykk540i/6
    replied
    Originally posted by dmjensen
    ...If you still have the M60 short block and want to measure the pin location on the piston and the deck height, I can do the same with M62 that is torn down still....

    Afraid I don't have the M60 anymore otherwise I'd be happy to measure some stuff, maybe someone else here has one torn down and can grab measurements ?

    Leave a comment:


  • dmjensen
    replied
    Originally posted by Mykk540i/6
    In order for the M60 piston to sit .010" higher above the deck @ TDC compared to the M62 that has a longer stroke either the piston pin height must be different, the rod length is different or the block deck height is different.

    I personally believe that the block deck height of the M62 is taller then the M60 because the M60 double roller timing set up barely fits on the M62/M60 hybrid. It's super tight, much tighter then the same components when mounted on the M60B40.
    I know for a fact that the rod lengths are the same. Part numbers are shared and the BMW training material on the M62 says it’s a shared part. If you still have the M60 short block and want to measure the pin location on the piston and the deck height, I can do the same with M62 that is torn down still.

    I’d really like to know this information for my build. :D

    Leave a comment:


  • Mykk540i/6
    replied
    Originally posted by The Dark Side of Will
    ...As shown, when supercharger drive power is high, the tension on the belt will be high. The high belt tension will fully compress the tensioner and allow the slack side of the belt to become loose. That will cause belt slip on the crank pulley limiting your boost and accessory drive RPM, as well as chewing up your (expensive looking) belt.

    I hear that and I do see what you're referring to. If it gives me trouble once running I'll address it then.. like many other things when they come up along the way

    Leave a comment:


  • The Dark Side of Will
    replied
    Originally posted by Mykk540i/6


    There was some discussion about this on page 7, but this routing may cause you some problems.

    You have the tensioner on the "tension" side of the belt, when it should be on the "slack" side. In this case, that would be on the left side between the supercharger pulley and the crank pulley.

    As shown, when supercharger drive power is high, the tension on the belt will be high. The high belt tension will fully compress the tensioner and allow the slack side of the belt to become loose. That will cause belt slip on the crank pulley limiting your boost and accessory drive RPM, as well as chewing up your (expensive looking) belt.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mykk540i/6
    replied
    I'd also like to make a note about the M62/M60 hybrid compression ratios and my theory on why they are different.

    Taking a look at the M60B40 piston height @ TDC, +.035" above deck, flat top (no dish):



    M62B44 non-tu, +.025" above deck with dished piston crown:





    M60B40: 89mm bore x 80mm stroke, +.035" piston height, 50cc combustion chambers (before machining), 1.74mm head gasket thickness = 9.95:1 static compression. For conversation & marketing it's 10:1

    M62B40 non-tu with M60 heads: 92mm bore x 82.7mm stroke, +.025" piston height, 5cc dish, 50cc combustion chamber, 1.74mm head gasket thickness = 9.78:1 static compression

    In order for the M60 piston to sit .010" higher above the deck @ TDC compared to the M62 that has a longer stroke either the piston pin height must be different, the rod length is different or the block deck height is different.

    I personally believe that the block deck height of the M62 is taller then the M60 because the M60 double roller timing set up barely fits on the M62/M60 hybrid. It's super tight, much tighter then the same components when mounted on the M60B40.

    This also busts the myth that M60B40 heads on an M62 makes 11:1 compression.
    Last edited by Mykk540i/6; 12-30-2018, 08:08 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mykk540i/6
    replied
    After reviewing this thread from page 1 I'd like to make a cliffs notes post, I see where I've gotten scatter brained, off topic, jumped around and how following the build could be confusing: So here is just the engine build for people looking for specific information. I'll also include my costs (U.S.) for parts, machine work and misc to give you a ball park idea of investment, of course that dollar amount will vary greatly depending on way to many variables.


    Started with an late 90's M62B44 non-TU short block (Ebay local pickup, $250.00). The M62 is shown here with Raceware headstuds ($400.00, vacmotorsports).



    Also a complete dismantler take out M60B40 from an early 90's E32 or E38. The M60 will supply the cylinder heads, timing covers, valve covers & misc hardware for the build (Ebay delivered, $400.00) The E34 version of the M60 has the oil filter cansiter that bolts directly to the timing cover, the 7 series version of the M60 has the oil filter canister remote mount on the body and there aren't provisions to mount canister on the timing cover.







    The supercharger, intercoolers, injection manifolds inlet & outlet ducts are from a late 90's Jaguar xj8 4.0L V8 (Ebay delivered, $500.00). The only similarities the Jag v8 and BMW V8's share is cylinder spacing, supercharger and manifolds must be from a Jag 4.0L. The 4.2L has different cylinder spacing and will not work.



    Measuring piston height on the non-tu M62B44. We can see the pistons sit +.025" above deck and have a slight dish to them. Measured roughly 5cc of volume in piston crowns:







    M60B40 cylinder heads back from machine shop after rebuild, (Machine shop cost $500.00)





    Measured roughly 52cc of volume in each combustion chamber:



    The #1 asked question that I get; Where to get the supercharger adapters. They are made and sold by a fellow BMW enthusiast who is on various BMW forums under the name Toolman, he sells the adapters as a kit with various connectors, fittings, plugs and detailed instructions on how to install on an E38 M62. Sent a PM via forums, then Emailed back and forth, then committed to purchasing them. (Cost $1,200.00)



    In the M62/M60 hybrid build you use the M62 head gaskets to match the bore size. The M62 head gasket does not have the timing cover seals built in like the M60 head gaskets.

    (Pictured are the used head gaskets off each engine, not new replacements)



    I used Victor MLS head gaskets that came in at 1.74mm compressed thickness. By my calc; Using piston height, piston dish, combustion chamber volume and head gasket thickness I put static compression at roughly 9.6:1 (Victor MLS gaskets, $110)



    New timing guides, timing chain, timing gears and misc behind timing cover components: (vacmotorsports, $600)



    Aftermarket M60 cam timing blocks (Amazon, $50)



    It was advised that I open up the bank2 coolant port in the block to closer match bank1 size, they are unusually mismatched in size from factory:





    Home made timing cover seals to compensate for lack of timing cover seals in headgasket:



    Dialing in cam timings:









    Using the aftermarket cam alignment tools the valve timing events landed at:

    @.1mm lift:
    Intake opens 12° BTDC / Intake closes 48° ABDC
    Exhaust opens 48° ABDC / Exhaust closes 12° ATDC

    240°/240° duration -108° intake centerline / 108° lobe separation

    @1mm lift:
    Intake opens 2° ATDC / Intake closes 33° ABDC
    Exhaust opens 33° BBDC / Exhaust closes 7° BTDC

    211°/206° Duration - 107.5° Intake centerline / 108.75° lobe separation

    When it was all said and done I set up the cams for a 112° ICL and a 110° LSA, retarding the intake cams a bit to lower dynamic compression and aid in keeping the charge in the cylinder by reducing overlap.

    It's important to note that using the inexpensive aftermarket M60 cam timing blocks I found that bank1 cam timings and bank2 cam timings were exactly 2° different from each other and there would have been no way to know without the degree wheel and dial indicator.

    Modifying the supercharger to bolt down to it's new home:







    The supercharger pulley also needs to get pulled, flipped and pressed back on in order to line up with the BMW belt drive & accessories. You could use the opportunity to change the pulley size, I didn't and used the OE pulley. The ZZP supercharger pulley puller tool costs $120.00









    And of course, the Nitrous...







    Total cost till this point, not including tools or nitrous. Roughly $4,000.00 U.S.

    Leave a comment:


  • TimeMachinE30
    replied
    Impressive.

    Hate the T buckets.. but very impressive.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mykk540i/6
    replied
    Originally posted by Gtem2017
    ... I would be very humbled if you would share some of your Discovery's and dead ends with me.

    I'm happy to share any information I've got, I think most of it is already out here in this thread. What other information are you looking for?

    Leave a comment:

Working...