-
Hey tubesock. I'm right here with you on the swap. I'm rocking a 91' 318is and just picked up and L76 6.0 out of my cousin's vortex max. The L76 is basically an Ls2 but with dod (v4 mode). What are you planning on running for a transmission? I want a t65 or tr6060. But the price and availability sucks. And sadly 5 speeds are plenty in my area. The pin out on GM's isn't that bad. As buddy said above, you will get sick of starting at wiring diagrams. But follow it. And shouldnt be to bad -
Yes sir even has a port for the steam tube.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLeave a comment:
-
I'll have to consider that griffin radiator. It looks like a good setupLeave a comment:
-
I also have Griffin rad and wired the car myself. If your planning on adding a power adder like a turbo or supercharger I would go with a gen IV LS. I have the LC9 it's an aluminum block like you want but has stronger internals.Leave a comment:
-
91 318is/ LS Swap
I used griffin universal mounts part number KD-00050. Get a nice rivnut set up and the mounts bolt on like factory. In fact i think the lower mounts bolted onto the core support using existing holes. Obviously I have a pusher fan, cannot find the part number or remember which fan I bought. Best not to cheap out on the fan. Although with this radiator I rarely ever need the fan it takes a long time for the griffin to heat soak.Originally posted by Tubesock View Post
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLeave a comment:
-
Were you able to use the stock mounts or upper bracket?
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLeave a comment:
-
Originally posted by Tubesock View Post
I’m running a griffin dual pass part number 1-28222-XLS. I had a mishimoto r32 radiator and was not happy, and I will gladly call anything mishimoto junk. But if you’re on a budget I’ll sell it to you cheap. It’s got nothing wrong with it. The griffin radiator is top notch. Note that I have sikky mounts which seat the engine as far back as it can, some mounts the engine sits forward more. Also note I am using an LS1 water pump and have plenty of clearance.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLeave a comment:
-
Originally posted by Tubesock View Post
I recall several people having problems with the pre-made harness at the time I was doing my swap. Slight variances in the e30 harness(C101)over the years. Once you de-pin and know what you actually need to connect to the car it truly is simple. You can buy the C101 and pins online to create a completely stock looking install. Personally it was an opportunity to say I did it, learn my cars wiring, knowing it was done properly, and saving $800 to use more constructively.
Nick
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLeave a comment:
-
Hey Dave, I’ve already completed the swap. I would recommend doing the harness yourself, you will have to de-pin and identify all wires. Eliminate the ones you don’t need (about half) and put it back together. I used a painless wiring braided loom kit to neatly wrap all wires. Turned out amazing. You’ll get sick of staring at wiring diagrams but it’s worth it and it’s good to know what every single wire does. You’ll also need a fuse block of sorts there’s many out there.
Keep us posted.
Nick
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLeave a comment:
-
91 318is/ LS Swap
Just started my swap, I’ll be posting updates and questions as I go along. I’ve read Garret’s swap thread and a few others but I still have some technical/personal preference questions. First one being the wiring harness, I found the wiring specialties harness for $765 but my question is is it worth it? Should I just get the LS harness and adapt it to the C101 connector? Which one did you go with and why?
As far as the swap goes, I’m still gutting everything out, engine and transmission are out but still pulling wiring harness and “other” wiring the previous owned installed. Still haven’t decided on the engine, leaning towards an LM4 or L33 because of the aluminum block. More to follow as I finish the gutting.
Dave
Leave a comment: