Quick background:
I had some issues with the 325i dying the past couple days. The first time my temp gauges and aftermarket oil temp, pressure, and water temp gauges were acting erratic prior to the car dying. Once it died I could start it and barely drive before it would die again. It wasn't really responding to throttle. Replaced the battery and all was completely fine. The gauges were steady, the car seemed to be running better and I drove it home without incident. Then the following day I drove it to work, and on lunch it died again. Not as dramatic as the day before, just stopped. It felt like it wasn't getting fuel. It would crank but not start. I pulled the rear bench and couldn't hear the pump running as I cranked it. Unplugged the pump and plugged it back in and the car was working again. Drove it back to work and home without issue.
I suspect a power or grounding issue and the reason being the temp gauge on the cluster and the aftermarket temp gauge are completely separate from each other. Meaning, I didn't tie in the aftermarket temp gauge into the stock one in any way. It gets its power directly via a relay that is power by the distribution block in the engine bay (battery is in the trunk) and has its own sensor. The other thing I noticed before it died the first time is when I pressed the brake pedal the temp sensor on the cluster would twitch slightly. Again, leading me to believe that something larger is at play.
After I looked at the power and ground cables I noticed the battery/chassis ground in the trunk is starting to look pretty crusty, the power cable from the battery has some corrosion and the PO installed a clamp style terminal clamp rather than the OEM one, and where the power lead is fitted into the power distribution block in the engine bay it is very badly corroded. My plan is to replace the power lead with a new 1/0 gauge battery cable and replace all the ground cables before moving on to any more diagnostics - if I still have a problem.
Now, my main issue is figuring out how to address the power distribution block. It doesn't look like I can remove the factory power lead from there. Or can I? IF I can't and I need to use something else, does anyone have any recommendations?
It also looks like it's organized in a way that the fusible linked wire that comes from the battery remains separate on that distribution block, I assume this is something that should be maintained regardless?
Thank you for your help.
I had some issues with the 325i dying the past couple days. The first time my temp gauges and aftermarket oil temp, pressure, and water temp gauges were acting erratic prior to the car dying. Once it died I could start it and barely drive before it would die again. It wasn't really responding to throttle. Replaced the battery and all was completely fine. The gauges were steady, the car seemed to be running better and I drove it home without incident. Then the following day I drove it to work, and on lunch it died again. Not as dramatic as the day before, just stopped. It felt like it wasn't getting fuel. It would crank but not start. I pulled the rear bench and couldn't hear the pump running as I cranked it. Unplugged the pump and plugged it back in and the car was working again. Drove it back to work and home without issue.
I suspect a power or grounding issue and the reason being the temp gauge on the cluster and the aftermarket temp gauge are completely separate from each other. Meaning, I didn't tie in the aftermarket temp gauge into the stock one in any way. It gets its power directly via a relay that is power by the distribution block in the engine bay (battery is in the trunk) and has its own sensor. The other thing I noticed before it died the first time is when I pressed the brake pedal the temp sensor on the cluster would twitch slightly. Again, leading me to believe that something larger is at play.
After I looked at the power and ground cables I noticed the battery/chassis ground in the trunk is starting to look pretty crusty, the power cable from the battery has some corrosion and the PO installed a clamp style terminal clamp rather than the OEM one, and where the power lead is fitted into the power distribution block in the engine bay it is very badly corroded. My plan is to replace the power lead with a new 1/0 gauge battery cable and replace all the ground cables before moving on to any more diagnostics - if I still have a problem.
Now, my main issue is figuring out how to address the power distribution block. It doesn't look like I can remove the factory power lead from there. Or can I? IF I can't and I need to use something else, does anyone have any recommendations?
It also looks like it's organized in a way that the fusible linked wire that comes from the battery remains separate on that distribution block, I assume this is something that should be maintained regardless?
Thank you for your help.
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