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Cold Start Idle Mystery Killer

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    #1

    Cold Start Idle Mystery Killer

    When my 1984 bmw 325e is cold (first start of the day) the car idles perfect for about 10 seconds then gradually but everytime starts to run richer and richer until it bogs down completely and dies. If you give it more throttle itll keep it alive but even after a couple minutes itll still want to die, you have to drive it for a little to warm it up to have it idle normally(take this with a grain of salt "normally" is just being able to keep idle).

    I have refreshed the fuel injectors (might take another look at them again),
    Done a smoke test and fixed the two leaks there was (AFM box, loose hose in the intake boot),
    Replaced the fuel pump(in line) and 1 fuel filter (closest to the pump),
    Replaced the FPR (accidentally bought a 3.0 bar one I have a 2.5 bar that I might test),
    Replaced the Coolant Temp Sensor (blue switch closest to the intake manifold)
    Have the Thermo time switch and the Sensor for the cluster temp gauge coming for good measure
    +The previous owner swapped to an aftermarket thermo time switch and horrible wiring so going to fix that back to factory
    +The previous owner did his own wiring to the sensor for the cluster temp gauge (the ground wire came out of his crimp too)
    Re did the connector for the ICV (was loose and corroded a little) (clicks when connecting wiring with the car in accessory)
    +Cleaned out the ICV a while back
    AFM has been opened by the previous owner - if i remember correctly it was all the way to the left. I have since resealed it due to air getting out of the sensor
    I have tested the idle control module by swapping it with another one to try and see if there was a difference - no change in idle still bogs down
    I did lose the cap to the barometer
    I tested the brown switch (farthest from the intake) and there was no reading when cold - couldnt find what sensor that was or if it was suppose to read something
    I have a spare cap and rotor I can try
    I took off the cold start injector and its not leaking any fuel, and when unplugging makes starting the car a little harder but has same symptoms with it unplugged.

    I do believe the car needs a valve adjustment there is a good amount of valvetrain noise coming from the top end, could be one of the reasons mayber?

    I have tried a lot of things probably not listed on this list but I am grasping at straws at this point and can use any help from someone that could give some advice
    Tags: None
    #2
    unplugged the vacuum line from the FPR and does not smell like fuel and did try and kill the motor until I put my thumb over the intake hole. not sure if that adds anything

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      #3
      Replace the thermotime switch and no change, checked spark plugs had a little bit of oil on the threads on cylinders 3, 4 and 6 most likely due to the valve cover gasket leaking that I haven't done yet. Still think a valve adjustment will help a little. I'm gonna inspect the ecu as well

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        #4
        Originally posted by turtlerevor View Post
        Replace the thermotime switch and no change, checked spark plugs had a little bit of oil on the threads on cylinders 3, 4 and 6 most likely due to the valve cover gasket leaking that I haven't done yet. Still think a valve adjustment will help a little. I'm gonna inspect the ecu as well
        Going to inspect the ecu due to lots of moisture getting into the vehicle from a bad taillight seal from previous owner. Got rid of all the mold and revealed everything so it's water tight again but the ecu had some light layer of mold on top

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          #5
          Ecu checked out okay. Will still test with a known good one for double verification. Still leaning towards valve adjustment and possibly replacement fuel rail, last time it was out it was a little dented from the previous owner so it maybe leaking or having some injectors not seating properly causing a leak and the extra half pound from the FPR will exaggerate the issue. New fuel rail is on its way and ill see if the injectors are spraying correctly maybe clean them out while I have them out.

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            #6
            Originally posted by turtlerevor View Post
            Ecu checked out okay. Will still test with a known good one for double verification. Still leaning towards valve adjustment and possibly replacement fuel rail, last time it was out it was a little dented from the previous owner so it maybe leaking or having some injectors not seating properly causing a leak and the extra half pound from the FPR will exaggerate the issue. New fuel rail is on its way and ill see if the injectors are spraying correctly maybe clean them out while I have them out.
            havent double checked ecu yet, but replaced fuel injectors, fuel rail, and FPR with a used but correct bar pressure. spark plugs show no more leak and running more lean but its running too lean and is having a hard time staying alive without putting the foot on the gas. I will have to readjust the ICV and throttle to let less air in since i adjusted for the leak to keep it running. Ill do that and report back

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              #7
              also the crankcase ventilation tube broke so i chopped it a little and could only get it on with a zip tie (sorry car gods) but i have a new hose on order itll be replaced correctly in a couple days that could be the issue as well

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