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    #16
    Originally posted by andreyiv
    Now, trent, if you don't mind, was that a euro M3 tranny you were putting in those? I would like to hear anything that might help in any way at all. So far I think I will start saving up for the swap and then once the auto goes, change it over.
    Yes. It is pretty straight forward, but costs a lot of $. Much cheaper to go 5 speed.

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      #17
      Yeah I know, just recently I saw a used one on ebay going for a grand (the seller said they usually go for more than 2) and I know somebody who did the whole swap in his e30 for I think it was 850. Well, he had to swap the diff too (400 more) but it was all worth it, got LSD now. Does anyone know of a good place that has 5 speeds constantly in stock or should I search around ebay and junk yards? Thanks for the help btw.

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        #18
        JACKERS!!!! haha just kidding. Ok, maybe my fluid is gone/low. I ordered redline for the box and the diff from some site, but the jackasses haven't sent it yet (a month ago). Ah well. (I'm gonna try new fluids, then if necessary I'll take that getrag that someone jsut offered...granted it's in good shape)
        Since I hate starting new threads for each quesiton....anyone know how big of a deal it is to change rear subframe bushings?
        - 2000 Audi S4 Stg 2 (sold)
        - house (bought)
        - 1997 Civic Hatch (shaky but driveable)
        - 2010 Sportster 1200 Forty Eight Ed. (vroom)
        - 1991 318is S50B30 (TBA)

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          #19
          I know this has nothing to do with anything, but I just spent 2000 on suspension parts alone, and now there's a clunking everytime my rear end goes over a bump. I can't decide whether or not it's the exhaust bouncing around (which it sometimes does at idle) or if it's my rear subframe. I'm crapping my pants.
          - 2000 Audi S4 Stg 2 (sold)
          - house (bought)
          - 1997 Civic Hatch (shaky but driveable)
          - 2010 Sportster 1200 Forty Eight Ed. (vroom)
          - 1991 318is S50B30 (TBA)

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