I've searched front to back in the Bentley and cant find a damn article on how to remove the intake manifold!! WHERE IS IT!??!
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removing intaking manifold
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how do you have a 325iturbo if you don't know how to remove the intake manifold?
there are 12 nuts(maybe 1 or 2 more) holding it it onto studs on the cylender block..it is prett easy to get off if you remove the intake tubing and air filters and such. you also have to remove the spring loaded intake pipe, and the vacuum brace(or whatever) holding it onto the valve cover. look around, it is pretty easy to do.
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Its held by 12 (I think) 12mm bolts, its very simple, remove your intake, boot, T/B (4 10mm Bolts) with everything attached, coolant lines, hose from valve cover to T/B, remove fuel lines on cold motor, unplug sensors, compress the pipe that is going from block to intake manifold, remove intake out slowly and carefully other wise you will scratch it and are going to have to remove thermostat housing, I took mine out without touching thermostat housing couple of times so Im sure it can be done.
Make sure to change T/B gasket while you there, intake gaskets, and that pipe rubber o ring gaskets.
Thats all it comes to my head but if you need anymore help, let me know.
Im in college right now, and cant really tell you the T/Q spec that it needs to be tighten down, which I never usually do on little things.95' M3.
90' 325i Turboed.
87' 325eS Fixed.
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hey. i had to do this job somewhat recently.
a little tip for you. get new studs and nuts with new flare washers. this will prevent stripping.
as far as tourque specs, make sure they are all the same, as you don't want uneven tightening. i believe the specs are 16-22 foot pounds. (the haynes gives ranges on tourque).
when removing the oil return shaft (gold colored tube with the retaining spring) push down on it as hard as you can (keep pressure on it, this is important), as you push on the tube, pull the manifold towards you. this will allow the manifold to slide forward and off the studs.
another note: the center stud is longer than the rest, so don't get frustrated when trying to pull it off, take your time and use patience. it will come free.
replace the oil return tube spring and "O" rings before replacing it to ensure a good seal. when putting them back in, wet the seals with some oil.
as stated in earlier posts, be sure to replace ALL gaskets. while you are in there, it might be a good time to check and replace your fuel hoses/vacuum lines. service your alternator (check voltage regulator bearing and center rod-- the latter check for deep grooving)
have fun. if you still need a write up on it later on, i can scan my pages out of my haynes manual, and let you have them.
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