ball joints

[ruppcam]

Hey. Im about to replace the ball joints on my 318i. Never done it before. Any tips on how to remove and install??? thanks

[atomic]

I would not advise replacing just the ball joints in either the control arms and/or the tie rods. Replace the control arms and/or tie rods with new...


:up:

[deutschman]

I would not advise replacing just the ball joints in either the control arms and/or the tie rods. Replace the control arms and/or tie rods with new...


:up:

+1
and you will need a heavy solid rubber hammer and/or a pickle fork to get the tie rods and control arms out of the strut housing. you might also want a braker bar if you don't have an impact wrench. you will also need a stubby 19cm (i think its a 19...) wrench to get the the control arms of the sub frame. not much room to move in there.

[atomic]

^^^ IIRC it is a 22mm for the inner ball joints which can be a PITA being a first timer...

I should add that I would only recommend using new lemforder brand control arms and tierods. You can save some money buying cheaper brands, but I am sure you have heard the saying "you get what you paid for." So spend the extra few dimes since it is a suspension part that way you don't have to worry about the cheaper parts breaking on you while driving...





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[ruppcam]

actually im replacing the ball joints, tie rods, sway bar end links, sway bar bushings, control arm bushings and have already done the shocks/struts and springs. So i think its gonna be pretty tight. Im also doing the rear tailing arm bushings.

[ruppcam]

I already took it apart once to do the struts. I have the pickle fork and rubber hammer. That part wasnt too bad. But how do you go about removing the ball joint from the control arm.

[atomic]

I have heard of it being done before but have alsoo heard the new ones will not be a tight fit. I do not think they were meant to just be replaced, hence the reson why the dealer swaps them out. Replace the entire assembly with new parts if you value your life. If not take them to a machine shop to see if they can do it. But what you pay them in labor to press old out and new in will likely be what new arms will cost.

[StereoInstaller1]

But how do you go about removing the ball joint from the control arm.

I have heard of it being done before but have alsoo heard the new ones will not be a tight fit. I do not think they were meant to just be replaced, hence the reson why the dealer swaps them out. Replace the entire assembly with new parts if you value your life. If not take them to a machine shop to see if they can do it. But what you pay them in labor to press old out and new in will likely be what new arms will cost.

More internet bullshit.

If you buy new balljoints, they need to be pressed out and the new ones pressed in. Any bullshit about them being "loose" needs to stop right here.

I paid $80 for 4 new Lemforder balljoints, was $20 and a 6 pack of Coke to get them pressed. Fortunately, the guy running the press knew enough to check that the joint has some sort of "orientation", for some damn reason.

New balljoints in quality metal control arms beat the shit out of "Hecho in China" any damn day.

[ruppcam]

More internet bullshit.

If you buy new balljoints, they need to be pressed out and the new ones pressed in. Any bullshit about them being "loose" needs to stop right here.

I paid $80 for 4 new Lemforder balljoints, was $20 and a 6 pack of Coke to get them pressed. Fortunately, the guy running the press knew enough to check that the joint has some sort of "orientation", for some damn reason.

New balljoints in quality metal control arms beat the shit out of "Hecho in China" any damn day.

agreed. why wouldnt they fit, there made for to fit, thats the whole point. Would be kinda stupid for 15 auto parts stores to sell them if they didnt fit. And they are lemforder as well. I think they'll work fine. I dont value my life, so I'll take my chances

[Quadrajet]

You may be able to rent a balljoint press. Look for the hydraulic type, it looks like a "Porta Power" with a big box clamp. It will have a ram at one end and 2 lengths of threaded studs and a base opposite the ram. I borrowed one from work along with the C-clamp style press, now I know why nobody uses the C-clamp one anymore.
I mounted the working,ram piece, in a vise, and set pump on a bench to pump the handle. Worked like a charm.

[ruppcam]

You may be able to rent a balljoint press. Look for the hydraulic type, it looks like a "Porta Power" with a big box clamp. It will have a ram at one end and 2 lengths of threaded studs and a base opposite the ram. I borrowed one from work along with the C-clamp style press, now I know why nobody uses the C-clamp one anymore.
I mounted the working,ram piece, in a vise, and set pump on a bench to pump the handle. Worked like a charm.

sweet. i'll look into that. cheers

[Quadrajet]

If you find one to rent, be sure to grab the adapters/spacers so you can push from the "stud" side of the ball joint.

[deutschman]

+1
and you will need a heavy solid rubber hammer and/or a pickle fork to get the tie rods and control arms out of the strut housing. you might also want a braker bar if you don't have an impact wrench. you will also need a stubby 19cm (i think its a 19...) wrench to get the the control arms of the sub frame. not much room to move in there.

hahahha my bad on the cm! hahaha its mm. typing to fast

^^^ IIRC it is a 22mm for the inner ball joints which can be a PITA being a first timer...

I should add that I would only recommend using new lemforder brand control arms and tierods. You can save some money buying cheaper brands, but I am sure you have heard the saying "you get what you paid for." So spend the extra few dimes since it is a suspension part that way you don't have to worry about the cheaper parts breaking on you while driving...





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thanks for the correction. it is a 22mm.