3.42mA draw on battery while key is out, is this normal?

[jmc1590]

To be certain, are you measuring in series to the battery? I.e. - Disconnect the battery at the positive terminal and measure from the terminal to the connector. That way all current travels through the meter. If you measure from the + and - posts, you are not getting a reading of current being drawn. (Depending on the meter, you might be getting new fuses soon!)

[Jean]

you measure voltage in parallel but amperege in series (or with more expensive clamp style meters that slip over the wire), you don't measure amps by putting both terminals like you would measuring resistance or voltage. you stand a chance at short circuiting someting.

[achtunge30]

What do you suggest I use to test further?

[TwoJ's]

disconnect the positive terminal on the battery and leave the ground connected. Turn on your ammeter and set it to mA. Put one lead on the + terminal on the battery and the other on the connector on the + wire. This is called a series connection, and you must do this to measure current.

If you were just measuring across the battery terminals, you were only measuring the induced current from making a parallel circuit with your meter.

[StereoInstaller1]

I have the meter on the mA position and the (+) and (-) on their respective terminals on the battery.

Holy Shit.

This is why I say: DO NOT USE A FUCKING DVM TO CHECK DRAW!

99% of the people out there cannot operate one, this is a classic example.

USE A GODDAMN TESTLIGHT TO WORK ON A FUCKING E30.

This is why: (aside from KISS)

A testlight is a nice, simple, easy, quick way to know FOR GODDAMN CERTAIN if you have a draw or not.

Do as Jean said...pop either terminal off the battery. I use the ground side, but either would work. Put the testlight in between the terminal and the battery...if you have light, you have a draw. Check EVERY switch, EVERY bulb, everywhere...then start pulling fuses.

When the light goes dim, grab the manual. Read the fuses details and go unplug each and every item that fuse runs until that light goes dim.

Why the hell 90% of the fucking members of this board even OWN a DVM is beyond me...$5.00 should get you a decent testlight...or you could be mega-bitchin' like me and have a $45 SnapOn...WGAF? Get a damn testlight.

One more time: If you own an E30, you MUST own a testlight.

Luke

[TwoJ's]

A test light is just a ammeter for dummies. If you can use a test light, you can use an ammeter. They are both hooked up the same way but the light doesn't tell you what kind of amperage the draw is.

Test lights are really pointless if you've already got an ammeter.

[StereoInstaller1]

A test light is just a ammeter for dummies. If you can use a test light, you can use an ammeter. They are both hooked up the same way but the light doesn't tell you what kind of amperage the draw is.

Test lights are really pointless if you've already got an ammeter.

No way, man...a test light is a better simulation of a resistive load, shows current draw visually, etc.

DVMs are wonderful for use on electronics, this is just electrical shit.

[TwoJ's]

No way, man...a test light is a better simulation of a resistive load, shows current draw visually, etc.

DVMs are wonderful for use on electronics, this is just electrical shit.

Yeah, an ammeter shows current draw visually too... only difference is it tells you how much with relative precision.

Different strokes for different folks I guess.

[Poopie]

how old is the battery? I'm betting the battery just needs to be changed

3.4ma is nothing

[Wh33lhop]

Would have to be a shitball DVM to have 3.5A pop the fuse

The ones I'm used to are probably mediocre, the type that most enthusiasts would have to test basic stuff: Typically 2A through the fused path, 10A through the unfused.

[DuHast]

I'm a believer of both test lights and DVMs being a mechanic. I have a Fluke 88 w/ the Amp clamp... has worked a shitload of times to my advantage. On the other hand, I have also been saved by test lights a number of times. Really depends on the level of accuracy you want to get. For technical service calls I have to make to engineers, usually a test light is shit cause they want to see numbers. For general repair especially home projects, a test light is all you need. The best test lights are free however. Get some wires and solder them to each end of a headlight bulb. You need amperage period to even light the filaments. Especially good for testing switches, if you flip the switch and the test light lights, then you know for sure that circuit is good.

As far as 3.42 mA, that's probably like what everyone else said, the keep alive memory. Make sure you have constructed a series connection and re-test. Fuse pulling is a sure fire shot at finding the draw unless the fusebox itself is the issue. Check for burnt connections at the base of the fuseblock where all the wiring goes into it on the bottom. that's fucked me over at work a bunch of times.

[Poopie]

what kind of voltage is the alternator putting out?

[achtunge30]

what kind of voltage is the alternator putting out?

Good question, how do I go about testing the alternator myself without pulling it out?

[achtunge30]

how old is the battery? I'm betting the battery just needs to be changed

3.4ma is nothing

After you left, I charged the battery all night with my new charger. It read 100% the next morning but did like 1/2 crank before all the lights went out. So I swapped again for a new battery at Walmart and that started the car. I've been leaving the (-) disconnected ever since just to preserve the battery.

[SpecM]

oh my god, just take that damn car to Advance Auto

they can diagnos the problem in 5 minutes

have them load test the battery, and check key-off draw and alternator output