ETA stumbling hesitating not running right

[MysterE30]

1986 325es has the "IS" intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and I think cam installed. Bought it this way....

Car does not run right under load, sometimes idle. feels like misfire??

Spark on all cylinders, Fuel pump runs, tested and [COLOR=blue !important][COLOR=blue !important]comes [COLOR=blue !important]out[/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR] good at 30 oz after 30 seconds.

THinking the FPR maybe? Took the vacuum off the FPR and ran the car, acted the same. Don't know how to test it, Anywhere else I can look for some problems? Car also sat in a field for like 4 years. Engine rebuilt with OEM rings! Solid block but can't get it to run right....

Some other vacuum? TPS? Coolant [COLOR=blue !important][COLOR=blue !important]temp [COLOR=blue !important]sensor[/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR] I think I read had a weird connection with the running of the car.

Thanks guys!

[metalix1021]

Well, I live a little north of Milwaukee (10minutes) and have an ETA parts car. We could swap a few known good parts and go from there? I'm by no means an expert mechanic, but I learn as I go along.

[MysterE30]

Haha yea I am pretty much the same way. And that sounds cool. I'm in brown deer. Where are you living? Shoot me a pm.

[MysterE30]

Anyone? Someone please help. I have to get this baby runnin!

[robmespeedy]

go to sears anf buy a fuel pressure tester. the pressure should be around 44lbs (38-45). if your pressure checks ok. the disconnect the vacumm line while the car is running you should se a difference in the needle. if you dont. the fuel pressure regulator is bad. if everything checks out ok. move on.
check your cap and rotor, spark plugs, wires,
check to see if the ohms on all fuel injectors are even.
if you can get one try on another Air flow meter.
if everything check ok by then. check the pick up sensor located on the tranny.

[MysterE30]

Thanks dude I'll be checking all that tomorrow :)

[Camarok]

I am working in this car as well

I would love to assume that this car has a vacuum leak, it is just very bizzare that it rights almost great under load and idle when it is cold, as soon as it gets close or at operating temp it gets fussy, and the warmer it gets, it will actually start to back fire, I can hear pops through the intake it it won't eve want to idle at this point. Getting crazy can't find the bug, it'll be a small simple bug but I can't find it.

ALSO this engine is on brake in oil yet, car has about 100 miles on rebuilt engine, very new internals moving yet.


as you can see by this picture I have a capped off vacuum port... where does it go?

and in this picture you see a small vacuum hose that is sitting on the brake fluid resivor....



it goes on this what looks like charcol canister I saw a picture that this connected to some check valve, it was white. I was inline from this hose to that check valve, to another hose that connected to the cannister, Can't for the life of me find that image.


This picture has a hose that is from he brake booster, the replacement hose is the blue one, it sorta fits... but I'll be replacing that, possible culprit?

[MikeDE]

dude....the red-capped thing on the TB is the outlet/inlet for the crackcase ventilation!!! The hose usually runs from there, under the manifold to another big-ass nipple on the side of the valve cover. ALSO, your electrical taped intake boot is also suspect.

[Camarok]

HA! I knew there was a CV system on this car... stupid hole is under the intake manifold, Found it, not I am sourcing the hose from pelican
11151708801

I know the boot is a prob, but this is the main culprit... any clue on the other small hose that goes to the charcoal canister? remember seeing a white or black check valve inline to it too....

Thanks for all the input guys... I'll be back later :)

[Camarok]

Good old bently...

the valve thingy I'm looking at is the charcoal canister bypass valve.... but to no avail finding the part on pelican or realoem...

anyone have a part number or alternate name?

[metalix1021]

Kevin you focker!

[Camarok]

holy crap.... chirs?! You have Tony's parts car. coooool. That isn't the one I saw at advance that one day was it?


update... found out the part for the charcoal canister bypass valve is actually called Non-return valve Part no. 1163177770

[bddog]

The idle control valve is in the picture with the blue hose. It needs a good boot and hoses to work properly.If the icv is bad , a trick is to take a penny ,drill a quarter inch hole in the center, then place it at the intake side of the valve. Should even the idle out at about 700rpm. A temporary fix. Also check the temp sensor ,sending signal to the comp.I had nothing but trouble until I bought a new valve and all new rubber.- Steve

[Camarok]

UPDATE!

Got ahold of a new (known working, used) ECU, MAF, Complete exhaust system with o2 sensor.

Absolutely no change in how it runs...

Now... it still backfires through the intake, SOME times it runs like a top for a few seconds.

Also if you hold the throttle open at whatever % it will rev up to that point, then slowly bog down to idle.

If you can get the revs to about 4000, it opens up and strong as hell to redline, with or without load ie. in gear driving, as though nothing was wrong with the car.


The parts that bothers me most is the backfire through the intake... timing? But what about the times it runs fine, and everything past 4000rpm?

hmmm....


I know the intake boot isn't perfect but I don't think that would be the problem child.... I hope not at least

[netcsk]

You need to fix all of your intake leaks before you continue to spend money on parts by guessing. These cars run like crap with any kind of intake leak.

A good starting point (once you seal up the obvious leaks) - with the engine at idle, pull out the dipstick a few inches. It should immediately run like crap and run well when you put it back in. If not, get some starter fluid and spray it over different joints on your engine while it is running. If you have a leak, it will rev up higher when you spray the spot it is leaking from.