Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Help: Charging Issue!

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Page of 1
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous template Next
    #1

    Help: Charging Issue!

    Guys,

    Shut off car after a long hwy drive yesterday and it would start with a very weak crank. With engine running, I progressively lost my running lights, one tail light (?!), head lights, fog lights. I thought it was the battery so with it conveniently next to Walmart, I bought a new batt and it became fine.

    With the new battery, drove to work this morning and the same thing happened as soon as I rolled into the work parking lot. Eventually the engine died on its own. CEL Code 1231 (Battery Voltage Fault).

    I am starting to think it's my alternator. Anyway to rule out whether it's the voltage regulator? I'd rather start with that than replace the alternator right off the bat.

    Cheerio!
    Tags: None
    #2
    Just ran a search and someone mentioned that the battery warning light on the dash is a critical piece of the charging system, and if it's burnt out, the alt won't charge?

    Can anybody verify this? I am sorry I am not with my car so I can't check at this time.

    Comment

      #3
      I think at some point late in production a resistor was added so that a burned out bulb would not turn off the alternator. Otherwise, the battery warning light is part of the charging circuit and must be working for the alternator to charge.

      The light should come on when the key is turned to position 2 and go off after the engine starts. If that isn't happening, replace the bulb and see if the light then goes out when the engine is running.

      The most common failure is as a result of worn brushes. The regulator can be removed w/o removing the alternator and the brushes checked. If they are worn you can replace just the brushes, or the entire regulator. But before doing that you should remove the belt and assess the condition of the alternator bearings. If they feel rough or are noisy, replace the alternator.

      I've had poor luck with generic reman alternators and will now only use a factory reman.
      The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
      Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

      Comment

        #4
        A more detailed list of symptoms and diagnostics. Please help!

        Some symptoms:

        - The vehicle will start and run if the battery is first charged full with a cart.

        - Measured voltage at the battery while engine is running is no more than 12V, therefore it is not charging. This voltage depletes slowly, and electricals would slowly go dim, quit, until such time that there isn't enough to run the engine. Engine dies.

        - Upon turning the key to position II (not start), I expect to see all my warning lights come on for a test, and stay on until the engine starts. However, I do not see the brake fluid level light, do not see the battery light, and ABS light only comes on for a split second, does not stay on like it is supposed to. Remainder of the lights come on and stay on.

        - With engine running, I check the small wire at the alternator, which is the excitation wire, and there is 12V there.

        - With engine running, I check the big wire at the alternator, but only see battery voltage there, and it drops over time. I suspect no alternator output

        - Ground wire at alternator OK

        - Ground wire at battery OK

        - I replaced the voltage regulator, no change

        - I replaced the dash battery warning light lightbulb, no change. Apparently if there is a bad bulb here, it breaks the excitation circuit, and the alt won't charge.

        - Battery is new, 100% healthy

        Any ideas? I now suspect either the SI board (which might explain my random faults in my dash warning light test), or the alternator itself has a fault inside that cause it to fail to deliver current.

        Comment

          #5
          The SI board has nothing to do with the exciter circuit. That is solely the main PCB in the cluster, wiring between the cluster and C101 and from C101 through the engine harness to the alternator. An ohmmeter check from the bulb socket to the exciter lead on the alternator will tell if there is a wring problem.
          The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
          Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

          Comment

            #6
            Originally posted by jlevie View Post
            The SI board has nothing to do with the exciter circuit. That is solely the main PCB in the cluster, wiring between the cluster and C101 and from C101 through the engine harness to the alternator. An ohmmeter check from the bulb socket to the exciter lead on the alternator will tell if there is a wring problem.

            What should be my resistance readings there? Nil?

            Comment

              #7
              Close to zero.
              The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
              Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

              Comment

                #8
                its the alternator its bad bring it to a parts store they can test it for free it will come up that its not making power
                i guess u can just start it and take the neg terminal off if it dies its the alt

                Comment

                Previous template Next
                Working...
                X