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    #16
    Originally posted by Philo View Post
    If you want to give yourself some room, you can remove the AFM and airbox from the bay. This is what i do because I like seeing what i'm doing. Then there are two phillips head screws on the backside of the alternator that hold in the voltage regulator. Unscrew those and it should come right out.

    For pictures:



    the guy you want to remove.\/ Brushes.
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    Perfect, thanks Tim! I'll check it out tomorrow.
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      #17
      The voltage regulator looked fine. It looked just like the one pictured above, fairly new. Any other ideas?
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        #18
        Unplug the coolant temp sensor and run the car again. Report back with findings, sounds like a prime suspect right now.

        "See, we're adding a little something to this month's sales contest. As you all know, first prize is a Cadillac Eldorado. Anyone wanna see second prize? Second prize is a set of steak knives. Third prize is you're fired."

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          #19
          Originally posted by e30Matt View Post
          Unplug the coolant temp sensor and run the car again. Report back with findings, sounds like a prime suspect right now.
          It's been replaced within the last 6 months and didn't think it did anything until the car was warm. The real issues I'm having now are on initial start-up. I will give it a try though.
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            #20
            How does the car know if it's cold or warm? ;) ;)

            "See, we're adding a little something to this month's sales contest. As you all know, first prize is a Cadillac Eldorado. Anyone wanna see second prize? Second prize is a set of steak knives. Third prize is you're fired."

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              #21
              If the car is running poorly when cold, and nice when warmed up..this is usually a bad coolant temp sensor. A new one is like 7 bucks from Pelican. Its worth replacing even if you think the one you have is operating correctly.
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                #22
                Originally posted by blocke View Post
                If the car is running poorly when cold, and nice when warmed up..this is usually a bad coolant temp sensor. A new one is like 7 bucks from Pelican. Its worth replacing even if you think the one you have is operating correctly.
                True, I'll order one and see if it helps. It's a cheap fix if that is the problem. Thanks guys.

                Chris
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                  #23
                  Just swapped in one of the ICVs I acquired and it seems to have fixed the idling problem. Started her up, idle dropped to 700-750 and purred at 750. Gave it gas to see if she would cut out like she'd done so many times before, but not anymore, idle dropped to 650, then right back up to stable at 750. Thanks to everyone that said it would be the ICV.
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