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Need some help! Cut some wires I should'nt have!!!!

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    Need some help! Cut some wires I should'nt have!!!!

    I took the checkpanel out of my track car today along with a laundry list of other items. I had no need to the 5 feet of wires loomed from the main harness under the dash that go up to the pigtail for the checkpanel, so I sut it off.

    Now my tach and MPG guage does not work.

    Any advice on how to get these working again without reconecting the entire harness to that pigtail?

    Thanks in advance everyone.

    -Ryan
    ** Lot's of M20 turbo parts for sale.**



    Turn key track car.

    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=222066

    #2
    Find an electrical chart and figure out what you did? Kinda obvious, and I'm not bein a dick. If you can track what wires MAY impact what you lost, then you can maybe solder them to another connection... or something.

    PM me for detailing services in the Longmont / Boulder Area in Colorado!
    Originally posted by DTM190
    "fuck the kangaroo dude, his toilet water swirls the wrong way anyway, plus i never liked crocodile dundee or Steve Irwin and vegemite tastes like shit"

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      #3
      The active check control panel is run from several fuses, but aside from sharing fuses, has no connection to MPG or tach.

      Fuse 4,6,10,21,22,23 are all shared.

      If you have turn signals or hazards, fuse 4 is OK.

      If you have interior lights or brake lights, fuse 6 is OK.

      If you still have side marker and tail light power fuse 22 and 23 will be OK.

      Fuses 10 and 21 both run the OBC and the MPG/tach and the active check control system.

      That is where it gets weird though: those both run parts of the DME, too. Check engine is powered by fuse 10, which also runs the unloader relay K7.

      21 only seems to run the Si board, except for the code relay and the chime module.

      So it seems if you jump in the car, you can test 4, 6, 22 and 23 in about 4 seconds.

      21 will take flipping the key on, except that I know for a fact that you do not have either a chime module or a functioning code relay, so that one you actually have to test in the fuseblock, so you might as well test 10 there, too.

      Go kick its ass.

      Luke

      Closing SOON!
      "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

      Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

      Thanks for 10 years of fun!

      Comment


        #4
        This should fix it:













































        Told you so. :up:
        1985 M10b18. 70maybewhpoffury. Over engineered S50b30 murica BBQ swap in progress.

        Originally posted by DEV0 E30
        You'd chugg this butt. I know you would. Ain't gotta' lie to kick it brostantinople.

        Comment


          #5
          So, the night of my life. I first lost my left rear tail light. Blinkers are fine and so are brakes, but the tail is out. Than I lose the right rear.

          Fuses 22 and 23 are both blown. I replaced them and they both popped right away. I think I have a short somewhere.

          Tomorrow I am going to re-attach that damn pigtail for the checkpanel (only using about 1/10th of its length) and bury it under the dash. Ya know, I just love european wiring.

          Oh, and here is a fuse block wiring diagram for anyone that may have this issue in the future.

          Rating in Amperes (A), items of equipment supplied, relays

          1 = 7.5 A Left high beam headlight (relay K3)
          2 = 7.5 A Right high beam headlight (relay K3)
          3 = 15 A Auxiliary fan, 91˚C (relay K1)
          4 = 15 A Flashing turn indicators
          5 = 30 A Wipe-wash, headlight cleaning and intensive cleaning systems (relay K10)
          6 = 7.5 A Brake lights (15 A if additional brake lights are fitted), automatic cruise control, map reading lights
          7 = 15 A Horn (relay K2)
          8 = 30 A Heated rear window
          9 = 15 A Engine electrical system (carburetor engine), selector lever position indicator for automatic transmission
          10 = 7.5 A Instruments, on-board computer, reversing lights, Service Indicator
          11 = 7.5 A Fuel pump, fuel supply pump
          12 = 7.5 A Radio, Check Control and instruments
          13 = 7.5 A Left low beam headlight (relay K4)
          14 = 7.5 A Right low beam headlight (relay K4)
          15 = 7.5 A Rear fog lights (relay K4, switching off when high headlight beams are selected; relay K9)
          16 = 15 A Seat heating (relay K5)
          17 = 30 A Sliding roof (relay K5), electric window lifts
          18 = 30 A Auxiliary fan, 99˚C (relay K6)
          19 = 7.5 A Mirror control, mirror heating (relay K7)
          20 = 30 A Heater blower, air conditioning (relay K7)
          21 = 7.5 A Interior, glove box and luggage compartment lights, torch, clock, radio memory, on-board computer
          22 = 7.5 A Left side, rear and parking lights
          23 = 7.5 A Right side, rear and parking lights, license plate lights, instrument lighting
          24 = 15 A Hazard warning flasher
          25 = 30 A NOT IN USE
          26 = 30 A NOT IN USE
          27 = 30 A Central locking system, door lock heating, on-board-computer horn, Sound System
          28 = 30 A Cigarette lighter, motor-driven radio aerial, independent fuel burning heater
          29 = 7.5 A Left fog light relay K8
          30 = 7.5 A Right fog light relay K8
          Last edited by E30Idea; 02-13-2010, 02:56 AM.
          ** Lot's of M20 turbo parts for sale.**



          Turn key track car.

          http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=222066

          Comment

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