Idle hunting issues

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  • bmwsun
    Grease Monkey
    • Feb 2008
    • 388

    #1

    Idle hunting issues

    Hi there. I am trying to diagnose an issue on my wifes e30
    1989 325i Auto around 250k but car engine has been rebuild.

    Issue is that the when i am driving the car and i come to a stop the idle drops around or below 500 and feels like it wants to die. It seems to hunt as well like it may surging but it doesnt go above 750rpms.

    Here is what i have assess so far:
    1.) Replaced ICV to no avail
    2.) replaced O2 sensor with known good
    3.) checked for air leaks


    Next step:
    Check connection/resistance of crank position sensor...

    anything else i may be missing......

    Thank you,
    M3 springs w/bilstein hd's, IE 22/19mm sway bars, front IE stress bar, complete suspension rebuild, IS interior.
    Crew chief for BBQ2U Racing: James Crivellone, John Parker, Chris Anderson, Ben Wilson, George Howe, Will Kellog, Jim Cissell
    BBQ2U Racing, Best of Intentions Racing
  • 4doorE30
    Noobie
    • Mar 2010
    • 8

    #2
    barometric pressure sensor i read up on some things people have replaced them and it idle smoother like it should

    Comment

    • bmwsun
      Grease Monkey
      • Feb 2008
      • 388

      #3
      Originally posted by bmwsun
      Hi there. I am trying to diagnose an issue on my wifes e30
      1989 325i Auto around 250k but car engine has been rebuild.

      Issue is that the when i am driving the car and i come to a stop the idle drops around or below 500 and feels like it wants to die. It seems to hunt as well like it may surging but it doesnt go above 750rpms.

      Here is what i have assess so far:
      1.) Replaced ICV to no avail
      2.) replaced O2 sensor with known good
      3.) checked for air leaks


      Next step:
      Check connection/resistance of crank position sensor...

      anything else i may be missing......

      Thank you,
      Checked the crank position sensor and it is good.

      As well i swaped the airbox with a known good (no resolution)

      I checked the TPS and i am unsure of the readings i am getting, however i did notice that when i took the plug off it has some fluid in there and i aware that over time oil can drip onto the TPS and damage it.... should i just replace it?
      M3 springs w/bilstein hd's, IE 22/19mm sway bars, front IE stress bar, complete suspension rebuild, IS interior.
      Crew chief for BBQ2U Racing: James Crivellone, John Parker, Chris Anderson, Ben Wilson, George Howe, Will Kellog, Jim Cissell
      BBQ2U Racing, Best of Intentions Racing

      Comment

      • agent
        Vice Grand Pubaa
        • Mar 2010
        • 7960

        #4
        Last week I fixed a warm idle issue by replacing the breather hose that connects the intake to the valve cover. It was only after removing the old hose that a big split was discovered on the underside where it makes that sharp turn to attach to the intake assembly (just below the ICV).

        It had some hairline cracks visible on the top, but a carb cleaner spray-down vac leak test did not reveal it as being the culprit. When my neighbor pressed his thumb firmly on that hose against those cracks, the car would warm start (without adding throttle), which is something it would not do unassisted. In hindsight, apparently he was applying pressure in just the right way to help seal that big split.

        Pelican has the hose for $3. I bought the same brand (Eleplast) from my local CarQuest for $10 because I could get it that day - I am impatient.
        Originally posted by kronus
        would be in depending on tip slant and tube size

        Comment

        • jlevie
          R3V OG
          • Nov 2006
          • 13530

          #5
          I checked the TPS and i am unsure of the readings i am getting, however i did notice that when i took the plug off it has some fluid in there and i aware that over time oil can drip onto the TPS and damage it.... should i just replace it?
          The TPS contains two switches, one that closes at idle and the other that closes at WOT. The respective pins on the connector should be open circuit when not at idle or WOT and zero ohms when activated.

          I always drill a 3/16" in the center of the bottom cover of the TPS to give the oil that will seep in from the intake a place to go.
          The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
          Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

          Comment

          • txtorquemade
            E30 Mastermind
            • Mar 2009
            • 1758

            #6
            Originally posted by jlevie
            The TPS contains two switches, one that closes at idle and the other that closes at WOT. The respective pins on the connector should be open circuit when not at idle or WOT and zero ohms when activated.

            I always drill a 3/16" in the center of the bottom cover of the TPS to give the oil that will seep in from the intake a place to go.


            Good idea. Ill do that when putting my 90 i back together next week.
            sigpic 1987 325is

            Comment

            • bmwsun
              Grease Monkey
              • Feb 2008
              • 388

              #7
              I disconnected the battery and reset the DME and it made no difference. my next step is to throw in a spare ecu i have...will update as i go on.
              M3 springs w/bilstein hd's, IE 22/19mm sway bars, front IE stress bar, complete suspension rebuild, IS interior.
              Crew chief for BBQ2U Racing: James Crivellone, John Parker, Chris Anderson, Ben Wilson, George Howe, Will Kellog, Jim Cissell
              BBQ2U Racing, Best of Intentions Racing

              Comment

              • tim88325is
                Wrencher
                • Jul 2008
                • 201

                #8
                Replace or test the coolant temp sensor for the DME.

                Comment

                • Sir Smirnoff
                  Noobie
                  • Apr 2010
                  • 37

                  #9
                  Did you check your spark? It could be that. For our FSAE car, the timing was off and it always idled rough because of it. Sounds like an ECU/tune issue. does this happen when cold , warm or both??
                  Oh babay babay

                  Comment

                  • bmwsun
                    Grease Monkey
                    • Feb 2008
                    • 388

                    #10
                    I just replaced the coolant temp sensor and it runs fine now (knock on wood). I was looking at the sensor and it appears that i my have broken as a was able to move it from side to side (twisting motion)
                    M3 springs w/bilstein hd's, IE 22/19mm sway bars, front IE stress bar, complete suspension rebuild, IS interior.
                    Crew chief for BBQ2U Racing: James Crivellone, John Parker, Chris Anderson, Ben Wilson, George Howe, Will Kellog, Jim Cissell
                    BBQ2U Racing, Best of Intentions Racing

                    Comment

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