Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Budget stroker refrence sensor question???

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Budget stroker refrence sensor question???

    I have a 89 325I 5 speed with with a rod knocking.

    I also have a 86 325E auto that I have for a parts car. The E motor runs fine.

    I have read about using the E block with the I head and intake with sensors to make a budget stroker. The only problem that I see would be in the crank refrence sensor. It is on the front of my I car but I dont see it on the E car. Where is it on the E car? and will it hook up with the I ECU?

    I will have the head shaved to true it up but do i need to go further, say 10 thousands to pick up the compression ratio since i will be having it done anyway?

    Also what about the flywheel?

    I'm sure other on here have done this. Is this swap worth it? Will it kill the power I have now? I doubt I would ever boost or nitro this car. Would it be better to just find another I motor to replace or will this combo run close to the stock I motor?

    I know these are a lot of questions, but I'm trying to save some money by using what I have.

    Thanks in advance
    Eddie

    #2
    crank pos sensor, front right(from driver seat) of the engine just above the dampener, yes it will cross over with the I harness and ecu, ten/10th would be insane and would prob not run your valves would P'own your pistons...better yet just search more, shit google it if you have to. sounds like you need more info time before you P'own 2 car's
    "God created turbo lag to give V8's a chance" Taylor D.

    Comment


      #3
      My understanding is that a budget stroker yields better performance than an M20B27, but less than an M20B25. On the other hand a true stroker yields better performance than an M20B25, but the costs of a true stroker exceed that of a good used M20B25.

      If you shave the head more than the factory limits there is; a) the possibility of the valves hitting the pistons, b) the need to adjust the cam timing.

      A lightweight flywheel will allow the engine to spool up faster and the energy that would have gone into accelerating the flywheel is freed up for application to rear wheels. The downside of a lightweight flywheel is chatter from the gearbox when the transmission is in neutral and the clutch is engaged.
      The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
      Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by 5KWattson View Post
        crank pos sensor, front right(from driver seat) of the engine just above the dampener, yes it will cross over with the I harness and ecu, ten/10th would be insane and would prob not run your valves would P'own your pistons...better yet just search more, shit google it if you have to. sounds like you need more info time before you P'own 2 car's

        Tha is where it is at on the I block but there is nothing there on the E block????

        Also just asking on the 10th but I will have it trued.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by jlevie View Post
          My understanding is that a budget stroker yields better performance than an M20B27, but less than an M20B25. On the other hand a true stroker yields better performance than an M20B25, but the costs of a true stroker exceed that of a good used M20B25.

          If you shave the head more than the factory limits there is; a) the possibility of the valves hitting the pistons, b) the need to adjust the cam timing.

          A lightweight flywheel will allow the engine to spool up faster and the energy that would have gone into accelerating the flywheel is freed up for application to rear wheels. The downside of a lightweight flywheel is chatter from the gearbox when the transmission is in neutral and the clutch is engaged.
          Thanks for the reply but I was wondering if my flywheel, starter, etc. from the I motor will mate up to the E block ok

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by eddiej89 View Post
            Tha is where it is at on the I block but there is nothing there on the E block????

            Also just asking on the 10th but I will have it trued.

            you have to pull the bracket off the I block n swap it to the E block, i would just check spec on the head for machine work dont try an compensate for the compression, its only a M20
            "God created turbo lag to give V8's a chance" Taylor D.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by 5KWattson View Post
              you have to pull the bracket off the I block n swap it to the E block, i would just check spec on the head for machine work dont try an compensate for the compression, its only a M20
              Thanks, I'll leave the compression alone.

              I know what you are talking about but when I was feeling in that area on the E block I couldn't find a bolt hole in that area.

              Also the E motor has a smooth pulley where the I has theeth for the sensor. I'm sure that the pulley will probably swap but couldn't find any where to mount the bracket on the E block

              Comment


                #8
                its prob just filled with oil/dirt but its there we just did this on my friends 87 e, i dont think we swapped the balancer but it might have to be swapped...edit his still isnt running he bought another E30 lol
                "God created turbo lag to give V8's a chance" Taylor D.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Mine shouldn't be that hard as long as the crank sensor will mount because I m swapping it into an already running 325 I car. I won't have to change the sensors, harness, or ECU only the block

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Are there any other "gotthca's" I should be aware of on this swap?

                    Water pump and timing belt from the I should work shouldn't it?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by eddiej89 View Post
                      Are there any other "gotthca's" I should be aware of on this swap?

                      Water pump and timing belt from the I should work shouldn't it?
                      I would change the water pump and tensioner/belt while it's all Part
                      "God created turbo lag to give V8's a chance" Taylor D.

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X