Funky locks

[Varinn]

I just bought a 91 318is, drove it home today (amazing car btw) and im already in love. The single problem I've found is the locks are wierd, and as far as I can tell I have a central locking/power locks system in the car. BUT, none of it works.

The driver side lock can only be UNlocked with the key, turning it to the lock position has no effect on the mechanism. I can still lock the door just fine from the inside by pushing the knob down.

Aside from that, none of the locks trigger any of the others. Locking or unlocking the trunk has no effect on the front doors, unlocking the driver door has no effect on the passenger door. Where can I find the central lock computer/relay etc, and what should I look for when I rip off the door panel tomorrow? I'm pretty good with a voltmeter and can solve a no-signal or ground fault sort of problem, or any visible mechanical faults. Just looking for a few tips to spend less time fixing, and more time driving tomorrow.

[StereoInstaller1]

Wow, a guy who sounds like he might be ahead of the curve, electrical diagnosis-wise.

Awesome. Welcome to R3V.

First off, a copy of the factory BMW "ETM" or Electrical Troubleshooting Manual can be found at www.wedophones.com. Look for Automotive, then BMW, blah blah blah.

Second, your Central Locking module is under the left front speaker. Remove speaker, remove the 2 screws just below it too. Super short (1/4"?) zinc screws.

Grab the black plastic watershield that is just below the speaker, pull it out, then pull out the bracket holding the central locking module and the domelight relay.

Third, some of the info is not what you wanna call "clear" in the ETM. BMW chooses to put pinouts on one page, then color diagrams on another...in german.

Dual monitor is REALLY nice for the ETM, I sometimes have 3 copies open at the same time, comparing crap.

So yeah, good luck.

I think you will do fine.

Luke

[Gruelius]

I just bought a 91 318is, drove it home today (amazing car btw) and im already in love. The single problem I've found is the locks are wierd, and as far as I can tell I have a central locking/power locks system in the car. BUT, none of it works.

The driver side lock can only be UNlocked with the key, turning it to the lock position has no effect on the mechanism. I can still lock the door just fine from the inside by pushing the knob down.

Aside from that, none of the locks trigger any of the others. Locking or unlocking the trunk has no effect on the front doors, unlocking the driver door has no effect on the passenger door. Where can I find the central lock computer/relay etc, and what should I look for when I rip off the door panel tomorrow? I'm pretty good with a voltmeter and can solve a no-signal or ground fault sort of problem, or any visible mechanical faults. Just looking for a few tips to spend less time fixing, and more time driving tomorrow.

i had the same problem with my drivers side lock... it exploded... lol there was a bearing that had worn a grove that popped up then some other part got stuck which eventually caused a retainer to shear so it woudlnt lock it would only unlock.

Easiest way to figure it out is have a look with the door trims off.

If the door lock doesnt work like it should (arm rotates with the key) you should get a rebuild kit for both doors

also are you sure you have central locking? sounds like you dont lol.

and the central locking computer sits under the front right speaker. my car didnt have one and even though i had the parts i was cbf at retrofitting it because of the lack of the wiring loom (and all the microswitches e.t.c.).

anyway best of luck. I fixed my situation by getting a few non central locking door locks (very simple no bearings) getting an assload of graphite lube and just reused my tumblers to key the new locks and it works great now!. just be careful to make sure when the lock goes in that the opening that reveales the tumblers or whatever the thingos are called is facing down.

[Varinn]

Thanks for the input guys, I'll be heading to my shop shortly to take a look at things. I could be wrong about the central locking, but the owner of the local bimmer shop was mentioning that he was pretty sure this car did, as the last owner was a regular client of his for around 15 years. He wasn't 100% about this one, but I'll figure it out pretty quickly :P

[Varinn]

Well, figured out at very least what's wrong with the drivers door lock, its just a worn out mechanism so I'll be ordering the rebuild kit soon and having at her.

Problem number 2 is a little more interesting, my car doesn't shut off. Started today, turn the ignition to the off position and it keeps on chugging along happy as a clam with all accessories, lights, etc still running. Of course it smells like burning wires too, so I've gone ahead and disconnected the battery, and purposely stalled out the car to kill the engine.

Seems like my ignition switch is shorting out when in the off position as the car runs and drives no problem and without melting the electrical, the tumbler feels solid, no binding and it doesn't have the same slipping feel the door lock does so I'm hoping the problem doesn't lie there. The problem only appears when the ignition is in the off position. Pelicanparts tells me parts wise this shouldn't be an expensive repair when I get it apart tomorrow, we'll see how it goes :D

PS: Gotta love that new (old) car curse