functional MAF conversion !

[mspiegle]

well, its done and works.

While driving, the AFRs stayed between 14.0 and 14.4, acceptable for now. I took it up to 5500rpm with the AFR being about 14.4. I would assume it to get a little higher @ redline... but i won't be able to fix that too easilly until i put the larger (19lb) injectors in. I would like to keep it between 13 and 13.5.

Basically, i used a MAF from a '98 328i. I wired it up, and was able to start the first time without trouble. The voltages @ idle were only slightly off, easy to compensate w/ the SMT6.

i made some more adjustments and went on my way. no problems at part throttle, idle, or WOT. The butt dyno DID register something this time. I couldn't feel a difference with the 535i AFM. So... to me that counts for alot. I hope to get a gtech competition meter soon and do some before/after testing to see if i got much.

response was definately MUCH better. Also, seemed to have a little more juice @ low rpms, but not much. I'm very pleased thus far... but still have MUCH to do.

[Charlie]

Sweet, take pics and work on a partial writeup.

-Charlie

[Rob]

sweet, on what motor setup?

[mspiegle]

fully stock m20 (no chips)

[Jonathan M3]

Sweetness, a MAF was my next planned mod for my engine and yours sounds very interesting. :)

[mspiegle]

my maf was $50. Add to the cost of gunni's SMT6, and you've got a cheap mod. Not only can you have your MAF, you can have adjustments too =)

and don't forget how much split second's setup costs...

go on, buy one! you know you wanna...

http://www.gstuning.net/

And yes, i am advertising for gunni. He helped me out alot.

[rs4pro3]

Very nice to hear. I've been trying to tell people that all they need is a cheap MAf and a singla calibration device but no one ever followed threw. Let me guese did you need to lower the single at IDle and rais it at WOT? that's what my 325i MAf would need to work with the 325i. As with it wired straight in I was running full rich at idle and off the scale lean at WOT. In between it was about perfect and hads lot of power till it leaned out. Does the SMT-6 pake the adjustments at idle, partial and WOT easy?

[mspiegle]

Actually, with mine i had to raise the signal at idle but WOT was fine for the most part. I am using a Seimens unit, you may be using a Bosch unit.

I've been waiting to get my hands on an SMT6 unit because I knew i could make it work with these mods... And you're right, nobody believed. Got comments like "it wont work" and "you're going to blow up your car" (no offense guys), but you gotta experiment if you want to learn.

And yes, the SMT6 is capable of making on-the-fly adjustments to any combination of throttle position and RPM, it is as easy as putting a higher number or a lower number into the mapping. I would highly suggest you guys get one of these from gunni.

[rs4pro3]

Ya I was trying the Bosch unit.

[spud814]

hey mspiegle,
Could u do a small write up on this and have a mod post it in the tech section so we all have this info at our finger tips. Also the difference in performance u felt and prices u paid for the whole setup woudl be nice too so we could all know how much u save versus the split second setup. thanks mspiegle.

[UNHCLL]

my maf was $50. Add to the cost of gunni's SMT6, and you've got a cheap mod. Not only can you have your MAF, you can have adjustments too =)

and don't forget how much split second's setup costs...

go on, buy one! you know you wanna...

http://www.gstuning.net/

And yes, i am advertising for gunni. He helped me out alot.

You got the 2nd one pretty quick. Glad to see you got it all worked out.
Chris
~hoping the comment in the other thread was legit about blowing up the first MAF.

[mspiegle]

actually, i'm using the same MAF. When I thought my diagram might be wrong, i assumed that i had already blown the unit. I went and tried every combination of pins just to see if the MAF would give out any signal, again assuming that if the MAF wasn't blown before, it would be blown now. I didn't realize that if you don't pass air over the sensor, it wont register much of anything.

With the AFM, even if the door wasn't open and there was no air passing through, there was a slight voltage. With the MAF there wasn't really anything. I found the correct wiring diagram, wired it up, and noticed that it read 16 millivolts. This was such a small voltage, i assumed it was because the unit was busted. I blew into the MAF, and it registered about .9V. Right then, i wired everything up and started my car.

Good thing these parts are durable, i'm suprised... i hooked the thing up backwards and wrong in several different ways. Still worked!

[UNHCLL]

actually, i'm using the same MAF. When I thought my diagram might be wrong, i assumed that i had already blown the unit. I went and tried every combination of pins just to see if the MAF would give out any signal, again assuming that if the MAF wasn't blown before, it would be blown now. I didn't realize that if you don't pass air over the sensor, it wont register much of anything.

With the AFM, even if the door wasn't open and there was no air passing through, there was a slight voltage. With the MAF there wasn't really anything. I found the correct wiring diagram, wired it up, and noticed that it read 16 millivolts. This was such a small voltage, i assumed it was because the unit was busted. I blew into the MAF, and it registered about .9V. Right then, i wired everything up and started my car.

Good thing these parts are durable, i'm suprised... i hooked the thing up backwards and wrong in several different ways. Still worked!

Try Try Try Again. Good philosophy.

[gstuning]

Excellent to hear, I love it when things I have said for along time are correct,

I said it first on the BEN and notbody bought in on it, but it is true,

MAF conversions don´t have to cost an arm and a leg,

Micheal you have done an awsome job

[skat 325is]

Whoo i think i got more excited when u told me over msn than you when u got it to work.

I'll be ready to experiment on mine tommorow, cant wait.