grounded out wiring harness conductor where it goes?

[Streichholzschächtelchen]

On the 87 325is i've chased down to a .75mm wire that reads .6 ohms to ground with everything turned off. This shorted wire starts from fuse circuit 10 which has three wires all of .50mm branching out from it, two of the three are clear. The wiring harness branches out from the drivers door across the front of the drivers seat towards the center console, this branch has the heated seat ciicuit in it also. This harness branch group has Brown/Green .75mm, Brown/White .75mm both for the heated seat not used. With this same branch also a Brown/White .75mm, Brown/White .50mm, Brown/Green .50mm, Blue/White .75mm, Blue/Gray .50mm, Gray/Red .50mm and a Green/White.75mm.

This Green/White .75mm what does it feed heading towards the hump and console as it's the gounded out wire? If I flash the circuit i'll read 26 amps plus the defrost fan will run if switched on at normal rpms. I've lost all insturments in the cluster no gauges work.
The Green/White wire is shorted to ground, any tips or clues trouble shooting this problem? Thanks in advance.

[Streichholzschächtelchen]

With zero replies and tips, i'll rip out the console and carpet chasing the G/W wire down. I just hope the shorted to ground location can be found as it's a useless vehicle now I need a dependable daily driver. Hell it wouldn't pass smog now either with a dead dash cluster. This 325is's fate will be soon doomed by a Sawall if need be sorry to say.

[jlevie]

Have you looked at the wiring diagrams for the car? You can find the BMW ETM for you your car at http://wedophones.com/BMWManualsLead.htm and they'll help in chasing this problem.

[Streichholzschächtelchen]

Yes I have that BMW electrical trouble shooting manual for a reference thanks but it does not cover the crappy hidden splices and back tracking of wires I found. I ended up opening up the taped wiring harness then found 5 wires splied off a single feed, seperated to locate the grounded conductor. It was the seatbelt timer relay a missed quality control issue. A brass tab the moveable contact touches after it cycles had fallen out of the PC board because it was not soldered in place just had solder on the PC board only. This 1/8" x .040" x 1/2" long tab ended up across the hot and ground spade connectors inside the delay relay and finally welded itself. For 2 years it rattled around causing the instrument cluster to go dead and randomly blow fuse 10 but would read clear. This time even rocking the body or opening the door made the Fluke meter resistance vary as if a wire was rubbing the suspension. Temperature alone changed this resistance or by banging the floorboard. Now I must retape the harness and assemble the dash. Fun part is to see if everything works when i'm done as I disconnected many connectors. The BMW's electrical problems have been far worse than my 95 landRover Discovery. The coolant light goes on at will as well the low oil sensor even after replacing a couple, brake light warning stays on after tapping the brake 30 seconds later. Overhead LED's all light up depending on how the car feels or is complety dead like it's possessed by the devil. The BMW leaks oil and the Rovers bone dry, go figure?