Driveshaft shudder

[Tangent]

I'm paying ~$325 for the rebuilt driveshaft. The only difference between an OEM driveshaft and what you'll get from most places that rebuild them is the price, and many aftermarket companies will use greasable u-joints instead of sealed ones. While a greasable joint sounds better, I'm a bit skeptical. The greasable ones must be greased at the appropriate interval or they're die before their time. Sealed units are designed to go a lifetime without that. Considering how much fun it is to even get to the u-joints on an E30 how many of us would really grease them on a regular basis? Other than that the only difference I've seen in any aftermarket driveshaft is that some of them come with threaded inserts on the end that eliminate the need for using the nuts that the stocker does. Unless you plan on installing/removing it frequently that's not exactly a big selling point IMO.

[joecoolinatl]

I just called to confirm this yesterday: A new driveshaft does indeed come with a new CSB. I'll be picking up my new (OK, rebuilt) driveshaft from Mesa Performance tomorrow. Visually my old DS's u-joints look perfect, but one of them is really stiff and you can feel a 'clicking' when you move it through its range of motion.

This recent experience with a bad u-joint and failing CSB (recent because I took a chance on a used DS. Learn from my mistake and don't bother with a used one) had different symptoms from the first time.

First failure: Started with an odd squeeking noise between 5-15 mph, it almost sounded like my car was attempting to communicate with dolphins. That eventually changed into a light thumping, and then a heavy thumping as if some madman was banging on my driveshaft tunnel with a rubber mallet. The squeeking and thumping were directly proportionate to the amount of throttle used.

This failure: From very near the beginning I noticed the used driveshaft wasn't quite right. I got a light vibration between 15-20 mph, and when decelerating I noticed a very light speed related clicking noise from 10-0. (It had to be very quiet in/around my car for me to be able to hear this) Once again these turned into a squeeking and then a thumping when accelerating between 5-15 mph.

one of my e30s does this. the thumping. except when i sit in the driver seat and take off it sounds like it is coming from the back passenger side, one of my friends recomended i replace the csb so im doing that tomorrow, but the car also has over 200K so it could be the DS as well.
can i take a DS out of an 86 325 e and put in an 87 325? (both auto 2.7L 4drs)

[Old'n'Slow]

I'm paying ~$325 for the rebuilt driveshaft. The only difference between an OEM driveshaft and what you'll get from most places that rebuild them is the price, and many aftermarket companies will use greasable u-joints instead of sealed ones. While a greasable joint sounds better, I'm a bit skeptical. The greasable ones must be greased at the appropriate interval or they're die before their time. Sealed units are designed to go a lifetime without that. Considering how much fun it is to even get to the u-joints on an E30 how many of us would really grease them on a regular basis? Other than that the only difference I've seen in any aftermarket driveshaft is that some of them come with threaded inserts on the end that eliminate the need for using the nuts that the stocker does. Unless you plan on installing/removing it frequently that's not exactly a big selling point IMO.

It is not necessary to remove the DS to access the zerk fittings! Use a pair of tin snips and cut a port appropriate to your hand size out at the edges of the heat shield in the area of the CSB. You'll need to get your hand in there to wipe off the extruded old grease. The rear u-joints are visible on my car, so no problem there. Portland says lube 'em every 24K. They have a 5 year/50K mile warranty, too. Most others don't.

Running through the gears is NUTTIN BUT BUTTA now!:D

[Oolop]

hmmm so lots of people have this problem too sweet, i was starting to feel like i was the only one haha

so yea, my csb broke too within like 2 months of replacing it and i remembered that when i had the shaft out the joints were really stiff (oh and i marked where the two halfs of the driveshaft were so that they'd line up again and not be out of balance so that couldnt be a problem)

recently i replace the u joints on a jeep wrangler and it was simple. now i'm trying to find some for my car so i dont have to spend $100+ on a rebuilt shaft... but, the joints for the wrangler were $16 each and oreillys or autozone doesnt have them for my e30. ebay has them but they're $30+ each and i have a feeling they wont be the exact right ones :/ (had a problem with that recently)

if anyone knows where i can buy a pair of the u joints that'd be great!

my e30's a '87 325e M/T

Much appreciated!

edit: oh and i'd rather have the greasable ones instead of the sealed ones

[e30 gangsta]

from what i understand the e30 ones are serviceable. So you have to buy new ones. Best thing is to just buy a whole new shaft.

[jlevie]

U-joints on a BMW drive shaft are not replaceable in the field. They are staked or welded in and machining is required to replace the bearings. After which the drive shaft must be balanced.

[VasFinest]

How much is a new drive shaft generally? Don't feel like googling it

[jlevie]

A rebuilt usually runs $375-425 depending on who did the rebuild.

[tjmonsen5]

just called driveline service of portland. 398 dollars for my 87 325is driveshaft, which included return shipping of my old driveshaft. There is a 75 dollar core charge on top of that.