Slave cylinder replaced and still not working, bleeding questions...........

[der affe]

i had the slave dies on mine then blow out the master as i was bleeding it. they are a PITA to bleed and the master is a bit of a pain to instal.

i have to agree though it sounds like the master is going out.

make sure the feed line is also good and replace as needed. you don't want to have to do it twice if you can avoid it.

[87e30]

This thread makes me think I need a new master.

My clutch is really squishy and so is my brake. I assumed I just needed to bleed more. Well poop.

Thanks r3v.

[jeffw]

I had this exact same problem. replaced the slave and nothing. did the clutch master and it has been great since. Brand new clutch master and slave only cost me 78 bucks.

[worangejuice]

*update*
OMG!!!!
So I went ahead and purchased a MC, unbolted the front bolt, the 2 mounting bolts, pulled the hose from the top.
But the fucking sonofabitchgoddmn hard line attached to the part of the MC that protrudes through the firewall was rusted/corroded on there.
I later read that you must use the flare nut wrench to take it off. I ended up taking the whole hardline off still attached to the MC. I started to strip some sides as it would not come off for shit.
Now, I 'm stuck looking for a metric sized flarenut wrench or and 11mm wrench to maybe take this off. But all I have is hollywood traffic and autozone/pepboys......so frustrated.
So should I just get a new hardline and attach it to the new master cylinder?
Or search for the 11mm flare wrench and see if that takes off the rusted bolt???
This fucking thing is taking longer than doing my timing belt!
*See next threadon why I should keep this E30,and questioning my love of this car.:(

[worangejuice]

*update*
Failed horribly.FML..............
So I went with the supreme duralast brand from autozone for the slave and master. (lifetime warranty,$50,yada,yada)
Got everything installed, bled system by removing slave and depressing rod 4 times, fluid was flowing.
Until I heard a *clicking* in the MC and NOW fluid is leaking onto the drivers side carpet................FML
Assuming its the autozone MC or I just put too much pressure somewhere backwards.
Suggestions are very welcome.

[jlevie]

That is a bad off-the-shelf mater cylinder. You can swap parts until you get a good combination, or spend more money and get quality parts that work the first time.

[worangejuice]

Yeah, I knew it was gonna be something like this, I usually order all my parts off Pelicanparts..............no wonder its a 'lifetime guarantee" cause I can install one as many times as I want. i think it was the top seal for the rubber line that busted. I had to use the old nipple from the original MC, cause the autozone one was a general pos.

[Huff]

Also, it's a little easier (I've found) to keep the fluid hose and hard line on the Master when installing them. You have to snake quite a few thing around, but it's easier than hooking them up under the dash. I just plug the brake res. when doing it..

[Rascal2pt0]

I bought my slave at napa and haven't had any issues. Make sure when you bleed the cylinder that your pressing it all the way to the floor. In my case it slowly became harder and the amount I had to depress till I had pressure decreased until it was good all the way. If you dont't push it past the soft part of the stroke and into the hard it will never get done.

[worangejuice]

ok, so got evcerything in, except the 'pumppistonrod' at the end of the master cylinder. I accidentally pushed the clutch up into the well. So now it sits higher than its supposed to be. I took crapola cell pics. What exactly do I adjust on the clutch pedal?
Thanks.

[Adrian_Visser]

Wtf dude are you serious? Hook up the shear pin that the clutch master attaches to. The reason the pedal is up so high is that the return spring is pulling it up all the way and there is nothing to stop it.

[accident]

Wtf dude are you serious? Hook up the shear pin that the clutch master attaches to. The reason the pedal is up so high is that the return spring is pulling it up all the way and there is nothing to stop it.

this.

[worangejuice]

Allright cool, I assumed the other master cylinder was destroyed cause the clutch pedal/spring was too high.I thought the end was pulled out of the first replacement master cylinder. So triple checking as I don't want this one to pop

[worangejuice]

SWEET JESUS!!
HALLELUJAH!!
I finally got pressure on the master cylinder and the car feels amazing!
I spent a pitiful/retarded three weeks on this project. I have a huge learning curve on fixing cars, (apparently) But now I can do this thing blindfolded :)
things I learned,highlites
1. I will be doing a thorough write up son,took forever to get situated with how the bolts come out (hard to see and reach)
2. read on tips and tricks,(so many)figured out that I can just detach the hard line from the MC at the soft line connection.
3. buy OEM!! ,bought a shitty mc from autozone that broke right after I installed it
4. Tried the reverse pump method and situated a modified oil can, did not work.
5. the old manual pumping proved best.
So the hardest parts are now learned, and I will be doing my own thorough write-up soon with much needed pics to accommodate diy'ers of my skill (barf)
I believe if I had to do another one it would be situated in one day and take but an hour to do the whole project :).
I can safely say the timing belt was much easier than this nasty ordeal.
Thanks to all who gave great (much needed) advice on this what was thought to be simple procedure.
Cheers!!!

[99em1]

What happened when you tried the oil pump method? Actually tried that tonight but fluid just started oozing out of the other end of the bleeder screw where it meets the slave cylinder.