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**SykoBMW** · 12-14-2003, 10:17 PM

An M50 swap is only $850-1k?

**DaN** · 12-14-2003, 10:34 PM

If you have a rod knocking I would'nt drive the car at all, if you have the weekend free pull it apart and do the cheap one first.
I doubt you will pull the motor and have all that machine work done, and put it back together in 4 days, unless you own a machine shop and have weekend access.

**rwh11385** · 12-14-2003, 10:37 PM

Originally posted by SykoBMW

An M50 swap is only $850-1k?

Yeah, unless you plan on stealing some parts, that figure is slightly cheaper than what you should expect. Mad props to you for planning to do it yourself.

If swapping into a '85 e, you'll need a lot more parts. An engine at its cheapest would be $850, (either E36 tranny or custom tranny bracket for m20 tranny), radiator/hoses/etc, 525 oil pan, e28 motor mounts, a different rear diff, etc.

I just named a few major components that you'll need.

I'm in the same boat as you. I got a broken rocker arm. I didn't want option A, felt like a waste of money. Didn't like option B because the M20 has its limits. So I saved and waited. Two months into a five month saving journey. I'm hopefully going to buy my M50 in the next month or so.

Just save up a lot of money! My guess is your swap will be around $2k, but most likely more expensive.

Oh yeah, M50 don't have timing belts. ;)

**peerless** · 12-14-2003, 10:54 PM

My bad

My bad, I have no idea what I was thinking on the M50 swap.

Change option 3 to the following:

M20 Complete Engine 11 00 1 730 862 (2.5L) 325i, 325is, 325ix

Manifolds, starter motor, and mounts included

$650.00

from the euro depot add in shipping, ECM, gaskets, seals etc.... about 850- 1000.

This is also why I mentioned the timing belt....

I had mistakenly thought the 2.5L was the M50.
Sorry for the confusion..

Robert
85' 325e

**325 eta** · 12-14-2003, 11:05 PM

Originally posted by DaN

If you have a rod knocking I would'nt drive the car at all, if you have the weekend free pull it apart and do the cheap one first.
I doubt you will pull the motor and have all that machine work done, and put it back together in 4 days, unless you own a machine shop and have weekend access.

<-----------you riped off homer

**peerless** · 12-14-2003, 11:31 PM

Originally posted by 325 eta

Originally posted by DaN

If you have a rod knocking I would'nt drive the car at all, if you have the weekend free pull it apart and do the cheap one first.
I doubt you will pull the motor and have all that machine work done, and put it back together in 4 days, unless you own a machine shop and have weekend access.

<-----------you riped off homer

Ya but his Homer has a turbo for a brain, yours has a peanut, what where you thinking??

Robert
85' 325e

**325 eta** · 12-14-2003, 11:52 PM

Originally posted by peerless

Originally posted by 325 eta

Originally posted by DaN

If you have a rod knocking I would'nt drive the car at all, if you have the weekend free pull it apart and do the cheap one first.
I doubt you will pull the motor and have all that machine work done, and put it back together in 4 days, unless you own a machine shop and have weekend access.

<-----------you riped off homer

Ya but his Homer has a turbo for a brain, yours has a peanut, what where you thinking??

Robert
85' 325e

**rwh11385** · 12-15-2003, 05:19 PM

Re: My bad

Originally posted by peerless

My bad, I have no idea what I was thinking on the M50 swap.

Oh, in that case, a few things change.

By M20, I assume you mean an 'i" engine right? The "i" is a good increase in power over the eta. However, you may have to check to see whether or not the wiring will match up.

My suggestion is not to drive anymore in your car. If that means parking it and borrowing a car from family, or buying a beater temporarily, go for it. If that means fixing it this weekend, do that. But don't create more damage than need be.

If you have time to wait, go for option B, but make sure to put an 'i' cam in there as well as intake manifold, throttle body, etc. Might as well change your block while your at it, it might already be seriously stressed or abused.

Buy an I engine. Either use eta pistons and rods with the i head to make a nice 2.7i cheap stroker, or get the pistons shaved 2-3mm and use I rods for a great higher compression 2.7i. There multiple threads on here for the 2.7i. It is a great performance option, and would be a good option for you in your situation.

I have an "i' engine that would be perfect for you. It's still in my car, but should be out when you would need it. It has a broken rocker arm, but you said you wanted to replace the top end parts anyway, which is smart to do anyway. My block would be a whole lot more trustworthy than your's, with the rods knocking and all.

So an "i" block, eta crank, either eta pistons/rods or i rods/shaved i pistons, your head, "i" cam, new springs, rocker shafts, etc etc, "i" manifold, "i" software, "i" thottle body.........that's a great performance option.

The swap is discussed a lot on www.strictlyeta.net/.
"I" engines go for somewhere in the ballpark $400 - $500. The pistons can be shaved by Pete McHenry, Stu's dad, that where the creater of strictlyeta, Fred Kim, suggests.

UPDATE: from Strictly Eta:

Originally posted by Fred Kim

#2 is to use the 325i pistons and shave the top. 3mm is supposed to be the accepted tolerance with stock 325i rods, though I have also heard 2mm as well. Pete McHenry of Precision Performance Services in Winston-Salem, North Carolina (333) 761-0643 is the pioneer of this conversion and would know this information firsthand, as would Jim Rowe of Metric Mechanic in Richland, Missouri (573) 765-1269. There may be other BMW tuners, technicians, and machinists in your area who know this, so ask around.

**peerless** · 12-15-2003, 09:34 PM

Ok, here is an update on the engine noise, I was told by a reputable BMW mechanic that it is piston slap, and not the rod bearings. Still not good, but the car is drivable, just noisy when cold.

I am interested in this 325i conversion. I have read a few articles that have peaked my interest. Here in a nutshell is what I have come to understand.

There where several variations of both motors so I am trying to understand what are the
best combinations of components to use.

The early 2.7 blocks had a 80mm bore size and newer ones have 84mm, or is this vise versa? 325e being 2.7 and 325i at 2.5. There where also several different piston types that make anywhere from 8.8:1 all the way to 11:1 when using the "i" head. I just checked my 85' has the 84mm bore.

To fit the "i" head to the "e" block I believe there has to be some drilling involved. This was when converting an "e" head with an "i" due to the 2 extra cam journals. If I get a complete "i" head then is there drilling involved in the block, head, or am I ok with no drilling?

I also don't understand why you would convert an "e" head with a "i" cam and do all the drilling and work when the "i" head has bigger valves anyways.

So in conclusion from what I understand:
84mm 325e block, rods, pistons. 325i cylinder head with the 42/36mm valves, 325i throttle body, wiring harness, ecm, and chip for higher rev-limit. I read that it was better
to use the 325e intake manifold. Exhaust manifolds still in question. Do I need the "i" exhaust manifold? why? I plan on porting the heads, exhaust, and intake.

Now as far as the wiring harness is concerned, what has to be modified? Is this
just a matter of cutting and splicing in the old connectors to the new harness? Or is
this some far out space shuttle electrical engineering feat?
Any specific diagrams or write ups on the harness?
Oh ya that reminds me
I have a 325i AFM sitting right here next to me:-) I already have one peice ready to go.

I think that about wraps it up, Am I wrong here? Better suggestions?

Robert
85 325e

**Bryson** · 12-15-2003, 10:41 PM

Originally posted by peerless

To fit the "i" head to the "e" block I believe there has to be some drilling involved. This was when converting an "e" head with an "i" due to the 2 extra cam journals. If I get a complete "i" head then is there drilling involved in the block, head, or am I ok with no drilling?

I also don't understand why you would convert an "e" head with a "i" cam and do all the drilling and work when the "i" head has bigger valves anyways.

So in conclusion from what I understand:
84mm 325e block, rods, pistons. 325i cylinder head with the 42/36mm valves, 325i throttle body, wiring harness, ecm, and chip for higher rev-limit. I read that it was better
to use the 325e intake manifold. Exhaust manifolds still in question. Do I need the "i" exhaust manifold? why? I plan on porting the heads, exhaust, and intake.

Now as far as the wiring harness is concerned, what has to be modified? Is this
just a matter of cutting and splicing in the old connectors to the new harness? Or is
this some far out space shuttle electrical engineering feat?
Any specific diagrams or write ups on the harness?
Oh ya that reminds me
I have a 325i AFM sitting right here next to me:-) I already have one peice ready to go.

I think that about wraps it up, Am I wrong here? Better suggestions?

Robert
85 325e

no drilling if you use an 'i' head on any block.
You can't use the eta pistons, you need either shaved eta pistons, super eta pistons (88 325), or custom ones.
Use the 'i' intake manifold, a ported eta manifold won't match a ported 'i'
The wiring harness will have to be modifed as the plugs are different.
Didn't the eta and i engines use the same AFM? I thought so, could be wrong.

Where are you located? I'm looking to sell my engine whenever and it has about 8-10k on the head since the rebuild. PM me if you want any info on it

edit: all blocks had the same bore

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