I have a 84 318i (Yeah I Know) with 106k on it. Anyhow what is this rediculous idle that it has when after it warms up it goes up and down, up and down (at stop lights it is real annoying) and why is it caused?
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Idle problems
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(not sure if all apply to m10)
ICV
AFM
o2 sensor
Fuel pressure regulator
TPS
air boot
gaskets/intake/tb
distributor/wires/plugs
coolant temperature sensor
Cold start/thermo time
ECU
check em all. Probably ICV problem, but I replaced everything under the sun to discover my idle problem was from a faulty coolant temp sensor. Also, those air boots get cracks in them easily and cause bad idle problems too.Old and improved:
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I'm betting your Idle control valve is dirty, had the same problem, I'd put my car into neutral at stoplights(when i had my automatic)
Your more detailed answer: http://www.r3vlimited.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=18327
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the easiest way to "check" some of the above stuff is just to unplug it with the car running and observe changes, if it is the ICV, then the fluctuation should stop or change with it unpluged, same for the 02 sensor. It will not run however with the temp sensor unplugged, and often will not run above idle with the afm unplugged. Take some carb cleaner and spray it around vacuum lines, gaskets, etc to check for intake leaks, if you find one the engine speed will change.88 325is "track whore"
99 540ia
74 2002
86 944 turbo
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Originally posted by nah325ithe easiest way to "check" some of the above stuff is just to unplug it with the car running and observe changes, if it is the ICV, then the fluctuation should stop or change with it unpluged, same for the 02 sensor.
I had a broken wire at the plug to the idle control computer that caused this problem.Originally posted by nah325iIt will not run however with the temp sensor unplugged, and often will not run above idle with the afm unplugged. Take some carb cleaner and spray it around vacuum lines, gaskets, etc to check for intake leaks, if you find one the engine speed will change.
Good luck.
SteveTomahawk -
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