Awakening from winter....some issues.

[Bimmerfanatik]

So I'm getting the e ready for summer, and running into some issues.

I took it off the road in October, and drove it around the lot roughly once a month. I ran it dry of gas once, then recently put in 2 gal of 93 octane (TMS chip in now!). I checked the oil and made sure there was some in it every time I started it, so it wasn't leaking or anything. Same with coolant.

Now, even before I installed the new ECU with the TMS chip, this same exact issue was happening. First, it takes a jump to get her started, every time. It's a brand new battery, but maybe sitting over the winter took its toll. It's under warranty, I'll get a new one this week. But until then, let's pretend that the battery isn't the issue - because I don't think it is.

Once started, the idle is erratic. Revving between 1 and 2 for a few seconds, then bogging and almost stalling, but then revving itself back up to 2, etc. If left to its own devices, after about 5 minutes, even while still hooked up to another car, it dies. Start it back up, and it does the same cycle. If you rev it yourself, you can keep it alive.

Still can't shift into a gear - guess the clutch is stuck to the flywheel or something? I'll have to wait to get that issue sorted out.

Any chance I've damaged the engine by letting it sit all winter? Doesn't seem like it could be that bad, but it sure does idle crazy.

[DaN]

Check the intake boot for cracks, top and bottom.
Could be water in the tank.


Do you have 14v at the battery with it running?

[Bimmerfanatik]

Check the intake boot for cracks, top and bottom.
Could be water in the tank.


Do you have 14v at the battery with it running?

Never actually threw a meter on it while running independently (without cables attached)...too busy trying to keep it running by revving, etc.

Water in the tank...how would that happen? How do I cure it?

Intake boot is new...doesn't seem like there are any other vacuum leaks either. That was my first thought.

I'm really nervous to keep working on the car putting new parts on to have the thing not run.

[Brew]

Sounds to me like you've got low voltage. You're battery is most likely shot after sitting for so long, or at least severely discharged.

Like DaN said, check the voltage while the car is running.

Water in the tank comes from condensation- a couple of bottles of dry gas before you fill it up again should get rid of most of it.

[Bimmerfanatik]

Sounds to me like you've got low voltage. You're battery is most likely shot after sitting for so long, or at least severely discharged.

Like DaN said, check the voltage while the car is running.

Water in the tank comes from condensation- a couple of bottles of dry gas before you fill it up again should get rid of most of it.

So you think it's the batt issue?

It's weird, when the car starts bogging, you can here the cone filter start sucking a ton of air, and then it revs back up. So it idles, then starts dropping, then the filter sucks a bunch of air in, then it revs itself back up.

I'll get a new battery and some dry gas this week. Maybe it's that simple. I don't want to have to swap a new engine in, even though I have one. I've got enough stuff going on with this car already!

[Brew]

So you think it's the batt issue?

Yeah. My dad's voltage regulator went on his 325ix a month ago or so- the car ran like total shit because of the low voltage. Batteries will lose charge and sulfate if they are left in the cold without being used, so it makes total sense that yours is toast.

[Bimmerfanatik]

So you think it's the batt issue?

Yeah. My dad's voltage regulator went on his 325ix a month ago or so- the car ran like total shit because of the low voltage. Batteries will lose charge and sulfate if they are left in the cold without being used, so it makes total sense that yours is toast.

Voltage regulator...could that be shot on mine? I don't even know where the heck that is. I have a new used alt coming too...just in case.

[Brew]

Could be, but I would suspect the battery first.

[Bimmerfanatik]

Could be, but I would suspect the battery first.

Ok, so if I take a brand new battery and stick it in and still have problems, would the voltage reg be the next thing?

[Brew]

If your voltage is low while the car is running, even after you change the battery, then yes, it could be the problem. But don't overthink this. Bust out the multimeter and start testing.

[Bimmerfanatik]

Bust out the multimeter and start testing.

Fun fun :) I already have a new alternator and battery going in. What else is there to test? where the heck is that voltage regulator?

[Brew]

Voltage regulator is held to the back of the alternator with two phillips head screws. You can pull it out pretty easily and measure the length of the brushes to see if they're in spec. If you're getting a new alternator it should come with a new one anyways, though.

[Bimmerfanatik]

Voltage regulator is held to the back of the alternator with two phillips head screws. You can pull it out pretty easily and measure the length of the brushes to see if they're in spec. If you're getting a new alternator it should come with a new one anyways, though.

Weeeeelll...new used, so hopefully it comes with it. I'll bet it does...

Hows the M50 buddy? Are you in Allston/brighton or over in Marshfield?

I might be swapping another e engine in (I know, I know, but it's free)

Think you could swing by and help? It's no M50, but... :)

[Brew]

The M50 is working out well so far. 12k miles on it since I got the car back on the road.

I'm living in Brighton and yes, I'd be happy to give you a hand with your swap.

[Bimmerfanatik]

The M50 is working out well so far. 12k miles on it since I got the car back on the road.

I'm living in Brighton and yes, I'd be happy to give you a hand with your swap.

Excellent, I'll be in touch... :)