check the connections near the pump; take the rear seat out and on the passenger side there is an inspection plate. remove the screws and you have access to the top of the pump. check all wiring for any cracks, fraying etc.
have someone wiggle the wires to see if the car does anything with ign on.
fuel pump / electrical problem
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i check the pump its fine... there has to be a wire cut or loose or something somewhere i just cant find it can anyone help!Leave a comment:
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The fuel pump on an E30 only runs when the DME sees timing data from a rotating engine. What hasn't been established is whether the fuel pump relay is engaging when the engine cranks. Nor has it been established as to whether the fuel pump and FPR are working properly. That requires checking the fuel rail pressure and delivery volume (see the Bentely manual).
Start there.Leave a comment:
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yea but that would take forever and the i still cant find the problem its driving me insaneI am pretty sure the fuel pump does not start at all until you turn the key at the beginning, so the relay must be dead, until you turn the key to begin. Another thing you can try is to go through the procedure to remove the anti-theft system, because I believe that to remove the fuel pump.
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I am pretty sure the fuel pump does not start at all until you turn the key at the beginning, so the relay must be dead, until you turn the key to begin. Another thing you can try is to go through the procedure to remove the anti-theft system, because I believe that to remove the fuel pump.Leave a comment:
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well now we know
and knowing is half the battle!
but they never told us what the other half was...Leave a comment:
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Yes, I am 100% sure. Simple answer is lawyers.
If you built a blow and go that required random testing while driving (ALL of them do) at some point and you missed that test and it shut your car off...well, the blow and go manufacturer would get their ass handed to them in a courtroom.
Trust me (or PM "Spyhunter", he is/was a tech in that field) NONE of them do anything but kill the starter.Leave a comment:
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when the fuel pump is on it's way out the car may start and run and then cut out. this is symptomatic of the fuel pump. these usually start going around the 200,000 km mark or equal in miles. Just because fuel reaches the rail doesn't mean you are getting adequate fuel pressure in the system to keep the car going. check fuel pressure first. but do make sure your fuel relay is good and secure as well.Leave a comment:
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it starts sometimes and sometimes it does not, the reason i posted this is because my car cut off on me when i was on my way home from work, then it would not start after i got to the side of the road it would turn over but it would catch that is the problem. I cant identify ifs ether its an electrical problem or a fuel pump relay problem both of which are affected with a blow and go from what i have herd that is why i need help i am going to look at it today to see if any is loose againLeave a comment:
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Wait, is it starting or not? From what I can tell from your first post, you stated is wasn't starting... Please be more concise with your post and try to use some grammar. We are trying to help you out here, but you need to help us understand your problem.Leave a comment:
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i have no idea what it does i just want to be able to drive my car without worrying about it cutting off on me on the highwayLeave a comment:
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are you sure blow and go is hooked to the starter, i mean the factory "CODE" start disable is a fuel pump cut, they could have tapped into that?Leave a comment:
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Pull your back seat out, pull the fuel pump cover.When it fucks up, smack the fuel pump. Generally, just smacking it with your hnd is enough, but might need more than that, like a tap from a screwdriver handle or whatever.If that keeps your pump humming, it is the pump. Otherwise, main relay or fuel pump relay, or both.Leave a comment:
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im pretty sure the pump is fine its the relay im almost 100% sure are they hard to find?Leave a comment:

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