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    #16
    I forgot to mention in my OP that after I manually tested both the relays, that the car did crank over and start. It idled for about 1~2 seconds before it died again. Ever since the car has been broken, this was the first time there was a glimmer of hope.

    It probably started with the left over fuel in the lines or injectors which leads to me that there is a spark present.

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      #17
      Here's a trick I use to make relay related diagnosis in an E30 easier.



      If you look on the bottom of the relay, you will notice it has an odd layout, and terminal 30 is not where it usually is on relays of that style. That's why that trick works.

      Once you do that, the fuel pumps should be running constantly. If the fuse simply pops again, unplug the in-tank pump and disconnect the external pump then feed it a new fuse.

      If all is well, reconnect the external (since the internal usually goes first) and if you hear it pumping, try starting the car. It will run with the external pump only (for a little while anyway) Then plug in the internal pump and see what happens.

      Here's a diagram for a late model E30, showing the fuse AFTER the relay and main engine connector (C101). The only difference is one pump instead of two. There really is nothing else that can pop that fuse.

      And as jlevie mentioned, the relay is only closed when the engine is turning. Use that fuse trick to make life a bit easier and bypass the relay.

      -Dave
      2003 Lincoln Towncar | 1992 BMW 325iC | 1968 Cadillac Deville

      Need some help figuring out the ETM?

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        #18
        Start your testing at fuse 11.

        No power at fuse 11, head to fuel pump relay.

        No power to FPR, head to main relay/DME

        If 11 has power, head to the pumps.

        Test every bit with a testlight.

        Always look for the "central debarking" point...almost always in the fuse box, on virtually every ELECTRICAL issue.

        Closing SOON!
        "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

        Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

        Thanks for 10 years of fun!

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          #19
          update?

          Closing SOON!
          "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

          Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

          Thanks for 10 years of fun!

          Comment


            #20
            I have not had time to look over the car today. Hopefully I can find time tomorrow to try that trick that davesmed recommended. I will keep you guys posted on the progress as soon as there is some. hahah

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              #21
              from searching around the forums, it seems like the external fuel pump is on the rear driver side wheel well. What do you recommend is the fastest way to getting to that to disconnect it?

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                #22
                It kind of sucks to get to, but if you jack the car up a bit and look up under the car in front of the drivers side rear tire, you will see your fuel filter. Above that is your fuel pump.
                -Dave
                2003 Lincoln Towncar | 1992 BMW 325iC | 1968 Cadillac Deville

                Need some help figuring out the ETM?

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                  #23
                  Speaking of which, how old is that fuel filter? Might have some crap trapped inside it. Good time to replace it.

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                    #24
                    So after all that headache it ended up being a simple loose connection on the external fuel pump!! I feel like such a noob. Thanks for everybody's help on the situation.

                    In the mean time, I think I am going to invest in a new internal/external fuel pump and filter. Probably do the timing belt and spark plugs and all the corresponding maintenance required. I will keep you guys posted on the progress.

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                      #25
                      Nice, glad to hear you got it sorted!
                      -Dave
                      2003 Lincoln Towncar | 1992 BMW 325iC | 1968 Cadillac Deville

                      Need some help figuring out the ETM?

                      Comment


                        #26
                        i am having the same problem i noticed that the fuel pump wont get power until i remove the fuel pump relay and put a wire direct to make the fuel pump work, but even if i do that its like i am not getting any power in the injectors . I change the two Crankshaft Position Sensor and still noting

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by white04wrx View Post
                          So after all that headache it ended up being a simple loose connection on the external fuel pump!! I feel like such a noob. Thanks for everybody's help on the situation.

                          In the mean time, I think I am going to invest in a new internal/external fuel pump and filter. Probably do the timing belt and spark plugs and all the corresponding maintenance required. I will keep you guys posted on the progress.

                          would the external fuel pump cut the power from the fuel pump?? or from the fuel pump relay

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Originally posted by e30manny View Post
                            would the external fuel pump cut the power from the fuel pump?? or from the fuel pump relay

                            i do have power in the relay prong but its like it cuts it off to the direction of the fuel pump :hitler:

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