All my locks go at once: GREAT!

[MaxBell]

Ok, so I will detail each lock.

Drivers side:
Only locks manually, can pull the inside handle to unlock manually. Only this lock activates the central locking, but again, only to lock.

If I turn it to unlock, the whole lock rotates sideways.

In my research, this may be a common problem? Do I buy the lock repair kit? What about the other doors, there are no repair kits for them? Can I pull locks from another car that work and rebuild them to work with my key?

Passengers side:
Doesn't lock or unlock. At all times it has about 30 degree of rotational movement in the lock. When it is warmer out, I can force the key towards the unlock position as far as it will go, then pull up on the door handle and it will open.

Rear Drivers side:
Always locked.

Rear Passenger side:
Always locked, only way to open is to pull up from the inside on the lock button/stalk thing at the top of the door while opening from the exterior.

Trunk:
No central locking, but it locks and unlocks fine manually.

This is making me craxy, so any help is appreciated. (the X is for Xtra crazy)

Cheers.

[MaxBell]

No one helped me out, but when I started tearing into these, this is what I found.

CAUSE: Ice rebuilds up in my locks and then freezes and destroys my locks and actuators. He constant thaw and freeze of spring wrecks them.

When it needs to be fixed:
Actuator: when you lock/unlock by a door and central locking doesn't lock or unlock another door.

Example: I turn the key in my trunk and it locks all the doors but the drivers side.

Lock: when you can't turn the lock to manually lock or unlock the door.

Example: my rear doors were totally stuck/locked shut.

I am finding that the easiest way to fix this shit is to just jump into it. The locking system isn't hard for me, and I am mechanically retarded.

[Ceeker]

that fine, but the question is: which door does one start ripping apart..??

You can take another lock from another car and rebuilt it. You will also find chances are you can rebuild yours too with some penetrating fluid and some patience and then regrease them. I have rebuilt a good few using "used" parts and they've worked fine. The rebuild kits aren't that expensive either. 35.00 bucks..drivers or passenger side are the same except for the dead bolt feature for the drivers side lock which can be removed.
9/10 the drivers always screws up being used more often.

[MaxBell]

To start I just tore into my drivers lock because it was the most broken and I have no friends who need to get into the car at the moment. I'm on the passanger side right now, mostly done.

Here's a really great guide I used when I was doing my drivers side. Once you do it, you get the hang of it.

http://www.billswebspace.com/BMWE30DoorPanelRemoval-LockCylinderRebuild.htm

[Ceeker]

To start I just tore into my drivers lock because it was the most broken and I have no friends who need to get into the car at the moment. I'm on the passanger side right now, mostly done.

Here's a really great guide I used when I was doing my drivers side. Once you do it, you get the hang of it.

http://www.billswebspace.com/BMWE30D...derRebuild.htm

thats a good write up!

[harm]

Holy Shit.

That is an amazing write-up.. and this is coming from a locksmith.

..only one extra tip, I smear a little grease into the channels for the springs before putting the springs in. Keeps the springs from just falling back out of the new cylinder while you're assembling it.

Damn. I'm bookmarking that one..and I need to buy one of those kits for myself, I tore into my driver's door the other day and fished all (well, most) of the tailpiece components out of the grime in the bottom of the door. No hope there.

[harm]

OP: One thing you're maybe not looking at - what shape is your key in? Is it all worn down, maybe not lining up all that well with the tumblers in the lock cylinder?

When you have the key in the bare cylinder core, loading up the tumblers, each side of the cylinder should be flush.. when it's assembled, that core shouldn't have anything sticking out either side.

The profile of that cylinder/tumbler being 'cylindrical' with the key inserted is what allows your key to work properly. Tumblers sticking up are going to cause issues.

Hoping you're giving everything a good cleaning while it's out.. the '30 degree' intermittent problem can be caused by general crud buildup on the locks & actuators. Locks themselves you can spray with brake cleaner, electrical cleaner, etc - it'll degrease them pretty nicely, just remember to lubricate the assembly again.

NO WD-40, it gels up; we prefer using a silicone lubricant; Tri-Flow is awesome stuff year-round. Spray a little bit in, run the key in and out a few times, try the lock; even with a set of good, working locks this stuff works magic. After you get the locks fixed up, keeping them clean and lubricated will help prevent the ice buildup and more problems in the future.

Sorry i didn't catch the thread earlier.

[Ceeker]

Update on lock issue: well after all said and done, I replaced both 2 door actuators and the centrol locking control unit. the system locks and unlocks from all the locks. phew!

[harm]

I just finished assembling my brand-spanking-new lock cylinder from pelican parts. 25 bucks was a pretty good price and I needed a bunch more stuff.. free shipping after the total hit 75.. worked nicely.

I do this stuff for a living and it still took me nearly half an hour to put together (no existing lock for reference in front of me, though) - best half hour I spent today, though, thing works like a charm. Now to pry out the rusty shitpile cylinder currently in the door; the tailpiece in that one exploded years ago.

[MaxBell]

Those packs from Pelican are GRRRRREAT!!