Subframe/RTAB question.. paying too much?

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  • Wh33lhop
    replied
    If you properly lube poly bushings you will generally get squeak-free operation.

    Good deal man, bushings to make a good bit of difference.

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  • Kershaw
    replied
    awesome. good job.

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  • Nairb
    replied
    Well I have poly CAB's up front, and now my whole rear end is poly.. no squeaking. Not even one time, front or rear.

    I'm on day 3 of riding around on this setup, and it is very very nice. Even with the race diff bushing in the rear. It's actually a lot quieter and softer than it was.

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  • jrobie79
    replied
    how are the powerflex's holding up, any squeaking? i dont mind the harshness, but from multiple other threads everyone says poly squeaks like a bastard, thats what i definitely do not want.

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  • Nairb
    replied
    tl;dr -- Parts replaced, car is fucking awesomer.


    Ok guys, just to wrap this up.. I just picked up my car today. I paid a ~$800 for all of this, and that includes the following parts:

    Replaced/Included:
    Rear brake lines
    Rear swaybar links
    Rear pinion seal
    Rear CV Boots
    Painted diff/other stuff under the car -- free of charge (spray paint)

    Replaced/I bought, he installed:
    PF Subframe Bushings
    PF RTAB
    PF "Race" Differential Mount

    I think that's about it.

    I must say, it has changed the whole experience of the car. It rides so smooth it's not even funny, and I thought it was riding smooth before! Turns out, the PO did not feel like changing the subframe bushings (which were nonexistant). Instead, he chose to cut up and old tire and wrap them around the subframe bushing bolts. Overall, there was about 3/4 inch of play on each side between the subframe and the chassis!

    Also, it corrected my negative camber, which wasn't a problem but now I see how much it went back.. now it is very slight negative camber. (Shit looked like stanceworks before.)

    Handling, VASTLY improved. I was always kind of scared to throw it into corners because the rear wanted to just JUMP off and it had so much body roll it looked like Britney Spears trying to do a rendition of her "Hit Me Baby One More Time." Just terrible. Now the car glides effortlessly and precisely wherever I turn the wheel.. it is so nice.

    Car is also much quieter, and it straightened out my steering wheel (could never seem to fit it on straight.. it would always be off by like 1/8th of an inch.. SO FUCKING ANNOYING.. now fixed!)

    So yeah. I'm very happy.

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  • Van Westervelt
    replied
    Originally posted by fronton
    I'm talking about the engine mount bushings. He refers to them as subframe bushings so I assumed that's what he meant.
    Sorry, but at no point did anyone say anything about front, or MOTOR MOUNTS (this is what you were inferring). There is no such thing as a subframe bushing on the front as the subframe bolts directly to the chassis.


    OP, that is a good price all in all. Sure you can get it done (if you know how) or could have it done cheaper (hack mechanics aplenty), but do it right, and 600 is fair for the whole lot.

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  • bimmershark
    replied
    just to add 2 cents...its really hard to go by what other people pay for labor and local parts new..considering the different locations..which may be why ya saw some paying only 450 compared to your 600.. sure ya knew that but figured i would say it anyways lol

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  • Nairb
    replied
    Alright, thanks for the advice fellas. I'm going to take them up on their offer.

    I got Powerflex Subframe/RTA/Differential bushings, rest of the stuff is OEM (exhaust hangers, pinion seal, etc etc..)

    Here's hoping Powerflex lives up to their reputation!

    Leave a comment:


  • fronton
    replied
    Originally posted by StereoInstaller1
    You have no clue what you are talking about.

    The front has no subframe bushings.
    I'm talking about the engine mount bushings. He refers to them as subframe bushings so I assumed that's what he meant.

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  • HarryPotter
    replied
    That's not really a bad price for all that you've mentioned.

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  • bzboardz
    replied
    if your thinking about DIY what about buying an already clean rear subframe(with camber/toe adjustments if you need them)

    sounds like a good price, i think bushings from powerflex cost 300$ alone
    Last edited by bzboardz; 01-25-2011, 06:37 PM.

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  • Kershaw
    replied
    that's a really good price for labor. i have done the RSBs on e30s TWICE. it is an absolute pain in the ass and it took me all day. both times.

    the bmw shop my brother used to work at wouldnt even do RSBs because the labor cost and what they could plausibly charge the customer did not work in their favor. they would flat out tell customers to use someone else for that.

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  • skurvydog
    replied
    I'm in the process of doing this now, i have everything off just waiting for parts now. It wasn't that bad and I'm a complete noob. You can probably handle it in a timely manner.

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  • KenC
    replied
    Thats a good price for labor then.

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  • Nairb
    replied
    Originally posted by KenC
    Was that quote just for the RSBs and TABs? Or for all the other stuff you listed?

    RSB, diff mount, RTAB, exhaust hangers, CV boots.. most of the common wear items back there..

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