Car can't drive when cold. only once warmed up. Misfiring when Warm....

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  • JakeP
    replied
    Take it to bmw?

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  • fiftytakedowns
    replied
    Fuck this Motherfucking thing,

    So now, After doing 2 70 mile trips, on a good ECU, now it's misfiring again. sometimes It seems to be load dependent others it Seems like its RPM dependant. but it is DEfinitley affected by having my foot on the throttle, and it is acting like it's hitting a limiter or spark cut. The trip was a living hell.

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  • fiftytakedowns
    replied
    What would I expect to pay if I were to take it to a mechanic?
    - should I start throwing brand new parts at it and take it from there?
    I mean if it's spitting a camshaft sensor code, maybe thats a good place to start?
    Despite the crankshaft sensor reading .560 ohms and the camshaft 1.250 ohms.

    thanks.

    And one of my ECU's nearly burnt my hand after handling it.
    Last edited by fiftytakedowns; 03-18-2011, 09:55 AM.

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  • fiftytakedowns
    replied
    Originally posted by trackjunkie21
    spark plug wires on wrong?
    It's Coil on plug, that being said, Why would it drive normally when it's warm?

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  • trackjunkie21
    replied
    spark plug wires on wrong?

    Leave a comment:


  • fiftytakedowns
    replied






    Some of them look off because of Camera angle is not straight on.

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  • fiftytakedowns
    replied
    The timing system is perfectly lined up. I have pictures as well.

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  • Danny
    replied
    I would bet a large amount of money the timing is off.

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  • fiftytakedowns
    replied
    Its backfiring hardthrough the intake and in the exhaust If I leave my goot on the gas while it's boggin.

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  • Draco02
    replied
    Matt-B
    Do you have another spare coil I can get to fix my car? Trying to swap out a confirm good coil pack.
    Dracoruno@gmail.com
    Thanks

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  • fiftytakedowns
    replied
    Originally posted by Matt-B
    i have spare coils you can have for shipping, 4 of them, all worked fine on my car, just need to find them...

    crank and cam sensors are that much, like 40-50$ from blunt for the non OEM, why not replace it?
    That sounds good man, I sent you paypal on m42 club as well.

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  • Matt-B
    replied
    i have spare coils you can have for shipping, 4 of them, all worked fine on my car, just need to find them...

    crank and cam sensors are that much, like 40-50$ from blunt for the non OEM, why not replace it?

    Leave a comment:


  • fiftytakedowns
    replied
    What would cause My injectors to turn off or spark to be cut (ONLY WHEN COLD)? anyone know?
    Last edited by fiftytakedowns; 03-02-2011, 12:17 AM.

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  • fiftytakedowns
    replied
    Originally posted by Jean
    My m20 would bog and die after i did a head swap...it ended up being fuel pump AND air in the system from what I can tell.

    Not sure about m42, but M20 motronic system reads from the CPS/AFM/TPS/DME Temp sensors.

    Temp sensor is cheap to replace :)
    CPS can measure good and still be bad , car will crank w/o CPS btw.

    I do have a spare 318is pump you can borrow if you like.
    Hey Jean,

    thanks for that input, I think it would be accurate to say that the car would test couple things good, while they end up being bad. I want to agree when saying that it could be the fuel system, but I was consistently getting 45 PSI when I did the fuel pressure. I am wondering if maybe the computer is telling the injectors to switch off, and what would cause it to do so. (especially when cold)?

    I have replace the coolant temp sensor with two other units.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jean
    replied
    My m20 would bog and die after i did a head swap...it ended up being fuel pump AND air in the system from what I can tell.

    Not sure about m42, but M20 motronic system reads from the CPS/AFM/TPS/DME Temp sensors.

    Temp sensor is cheap to replace :)
    CPS can measure good and still be bad , car will crank w/o CPS btw.

    I do have a spare 318is pump you can borrow if you like.

    Leave a comment:

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