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Wiper assembly removal/install FAQ

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    Wiper assembly removal/install FAQ

    I installed a monowiper assembly for a fellow member and figured why not take some photos. So I decided to pass along some tips and tricks that will speed up the process and ensure nothing gets broken (well at least give the greatest chance of success).

    Q: How can I get the motor out without breaking the delicate fins?

    A: It is possible to remove the motor without much trouble. First I use a radiator hose removal tool to get the clip holding the blower. There is a hole in the clip that I use the tool to hook onto and pry the clip off. Second the blower motor itself. Start off by folding the wiring harness bracket under the intake manifold. Then begin getting the blower out passenger side first.


    Starting to get the passenger side out.



    Passenger side out, rotate to get the driver side.





    Q: How do you get the Heater plastic out? Especially those tricky white plastic lever arms?

    A: the trick to the white plastic arms is not to remove them. Its easier for me to leave them connected and push the flapper doors through the opening. Pop both hinges off to start. Then starting from the front hinge, work the door through the opening in the housing.

    Now be sure to watch out for the driver door during the wiper removal and install process. If your worried it would be a good time to remove the white plastic arm by using a appropriately sized close end wrench to press around the four tangs on the white plastic arm. The idea is to use the wrench to compress the tangs allowing you to get a small screwdriver in and pop the lever arm off. Also make sure to pop odd the four metal clips that hold the heater housing. The radiator removal tool can help here too on the rear drivers side clip (its hard to pop off).

    Q: The motor buzzes when I put it back in. Why?
    A: Often times the plastic get roughed up with the wiper going out and in. Check around the plastic housing and straighten it up, remove and loose plastic.

    Q: Whats a good strategy for removing the wiper assembly?
    A: While it is possible to remove the assembly with the motor installed, I would recommend removing the motor from the assembly, a flex head 10mm gear wrench is the tool for the job here. Its also a good idea to set the wipers on the drivers side before removing. Just turn the key off when the wipers are half way round to do that.

    Keep the drivers side wiper stud close to its hole while working the passenger side to get its stud worked out under its hole and under the bodywork. Once the stud is under the body grab the passenger side of the wiper assemble and push it through between the body and the plastic heater housing. Pushing up on bodywork helps during this step. I would also recommend removing the rubber grommets to prevent them from getting eaten up (the extra few mm are of use as well). Once you have gotten the passenger side out, work on getting the mount for the 10mm bolt out. Last comes the drivers side. The whole thing will slide out between the intake and the car on the passenger side.

    Here is a pic of the "situation" while trying to get the passenger side of the assembly out (the hardest part of the whole operation)



    Hopefully that helps make this process slightly easier for some people. Oh and monowiper assemblies are much easier to remove and install (the extra 1/4" on the drivers side makes a big diff).

    #2
    My whole wiper assembly somehow failed today on the way to work in POURING RAIN, right after I got on the on-ramp! FFFFuuuu

    So I drove a few miles to work with wipers that were not doing much of anything, the driver side was trying to wipe my driver side mirror and the passenger side would go up and then SLAM down.

    I've never had any problems with them until today, major fail haha.

    Good timing on this thread too. I have an m30 in my engine bay, so I bet it's going to make this job even more difficult .

    Thanks for the pics/tips.
    Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



    OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

    Comment


      #3
      You might have to take your intake manifold off. That's what needs to be done with S50 swaps.

      Comment


        #4
        there's not "might" about it, I fucking hate having to do this 2 days after finishing m50 swap :-(

        Comment


          #5
          Anyone have a pic of the correct linkage alignment for the normal park position?
          I pulled my old linkage today and had to remove the motor to do it. Now i don't know what way the linkage was aligned and the pivot arm position on the motor while in th park position.
          Originally posted by codyep3
          I hope to Christ you have looks going for you, because you sure as fuck don't have any intelligence.
          2001 silver/Blk 325 cabby. SOLD
          1988 Blk/Blk e30 factory wide body kit car SOLD
          1992 DS/BLK 325 m-tech II apperance pack cabby SOLD!
          2002 325xit Sil/blk. SOLD
          2012 328i xdrive touring. Wht/blk. SOLD
          2009 135 cabby. monacoblue/blk leather SOLD
          2007 Z4m coupe. Silver grey/black/ aluminum. 1of50
          2010 F650gs twin
          2016 M235i cabby. Mineral grey/Red leather

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by MarshallM View Post
            You might have to take your intake manifold off. That's what needs to be done with S50 swaps.
            Just to update this, m30 manifold does not need to come off, not sure about m50 swaps. The correct way is to remove the dash and "move" the ac/heater box back inside the cabin.
            Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



            OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

            Comment

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