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All my E30 wanted was a new cap and rotor...

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    All my E30 wanted was a new cap and rotor...

    ...but now it's dead, in a shop 20 miles away. :'-(

    For the past couple of weeks, my car has been very tough to start. Sometimes I'd have to crank it five or six times before it would start. Bentley manual suggested to do a spark test. While a buddy cranked the engine, I held one spark plug by its connector and observed the color of the spark. In my case, it was yellow. According to the manual, a yellow spark indicates poor conductivity; the manual points to a worn-out distributor cap and rotor. Occasionally the spark wires can also cause poor conductivity, but those are more expensive to replace.

    To start, I decided to replace the distributor cap & rotor, since those are comparatively cheaper than the wires. Since I wasn't experienced enough to do this repair on my own, I took it to a local BMW mechanic who said he could replace them 'in less than an hour.' With labor rates of $80/hr for a BMW, I was happy to hear this.

    When I got there, the mechanic had me pull the car halfway in the garage. He turned the car off, opened the hood and started to remove the cap & rotor, but since the radiator fan made removal quite difficult, he decided put it up on the rack to remove it.

    With the key in the ignition and the cap partially disconnected, he pushed and turned the car into position for the rack, and then raised it up. 20 minutes later, he had the new cap/rotor in place and the radiator fan reinstalled.

    I sat down in the car and turned the key.

    *chggh-ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-chssss....*
    ...
    *chggh-ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-chssss....*
    ...
    Dammit. I am sorely disappointed and slightly pissed, but worst of all: the mechanic has this confused look on his face. He breaks out the multimeter and test light and starts probing all the connections. The battery is good; 12V. Everything else seems OK. Coil wire resistance reads 2k?. Just to be on the safe side, he tries another wire rack, connects the coil wire to the ignition coil and attaches a single spark plug; no spark. He swaps out the ignition coil; still no spark. The starter is cranking at a normal speed, but the engine will not fire.

    Three hours and much key-turning later, my car was still undriveable. :(

    What the hell happened to my poor E30?

    When I left the shop tonight, the mechanic had narrowed it down to two possibilities:
    1) dead or malfunctioning main relay or "EFI" relay. $10.
    2) computer is hosed. $300-500.

    Anything else? None of the fuses appeared to be blown, either.

    #2
    I think your mechanic is right on the money. Swap out the main relay, or maybe just try tapping on it with a screwdriver while you're cranking.
    '91 318is
    sigpic

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      #3
      IT'S ALIVE! IT'S ALIIIIIIIVE!!!

      I went back to the shop. The mechanic installed a new fuel pump relay, but the car didn't start the first time I tried it. I tapped the relays with a screwdriver, second crank, still nothing. Finally, a third crank of the key and VROOM!!! "OH MY GOD!" I shouted. He charged me for the cap and rotor plus 1 hour worth of labor, didn't even bill me for the diagnostics, and I'm home again!

      Of course, who knows how long before this problem will rear its ugly head again. I'll find out tomorrow if the car cranks or not. The important thing is that I've got the car home and it's a lot closer to the nearest BMW place, and I've bought myself some time to fix it on my own.

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        #4
        UPDATE!

        This morning I got up and started the car; the engine fired on the first try. I drove straight to Crevier BMW and bought a new main relay for $20, then went for a brief test drive in the new 3-Series. 8)8)

        A half hour has now passed, and I have returned to my car to install the relay. I popped the hood and felt lots of heat still coming off the engine bay. I replaced the main relay, but it took 3 tries to get the car started and then I was off to work. After sitting for 8 hours in a covered parking lot, the car started after 2 tries.

        As of this moment, I have ruled out the cap and rotor, wires, ignition coil, and relays. What else could be going on?

        My thoughts:

        1) dirty / worn wiring from relay to ECU (would 15 years of oil / dirt cause this?)
        2) faulty ECU ($100 to replace with used unit)
        3) insufficient residual fuel pressure (fuel pressure test)

        While I would like to think that #3 is the case, I have to remember that the car was warm when I came back from the test drive. I could see this being a problem in the morning, but my car started cold, first try, and has always started cold on the first try up until about 2-3 weeks ago. Or could the valve be sticking shut?

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          #5
          I will be interested to hear if you find a solution to this as I have been having the same problems.

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            #6
            Believe me, when I find the solution to this problem, I will be shouting from the rooftops!

            How many miles do you have on your 325e?

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              #7
              177k, my problem seems not as serious as yours, as 75% of the time the car starts on one crank. when it does not, however it seems to start on the second try 90% of the time. I have had two recent incidents where I cranked it over and over and over and it would not start, both times I came back later and it started after 1-2 cranks...damn electrical shinanaguns! its damn annoying and embarassing though :oops: lol

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                #8
                Jeebus, mine does the same crap. It ONLY does it when the car has been running, then sits for about 30 minutes. Then it wont start on the first try. I've always suspected the fuel pump but I never get a chance to hook up a gauge when it acts up.
                Dan
                1989 325i 5-speed

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