I need help fast

[EtaSport]

First, I have an 87 eta with a harness from an 89 i swapped in. Everything is done and I am ready to start.

I hooked the battery up and now the power windows are on all the time?

My ignition turns on, dash lights up, relays click, but I hear no fuel pump, and if I turn to start nothing happens.

Im getting power at the firewall. I am uncertain if I have 12 volts at the starter, but it has to be going through if I have power at the relays. I just have no clue why my power windows are on.

My harness has 3 wires that go to the starter. A red 8 gauge, a black 12 gauge and a green and black 16 gauge or something. I read on Fred Kim's site that the red and black wires go to the positive terminal, and the green wire goes to the negative. Well my starter has a spade connector at the top of it and two posts below. Are these the positive and negative posts or does the spade connector have anything to do with +, -?

I checked, I have 12 volts at the starter. My windows are on when the key is not in, but off when the key is on. I recenlty had a problem where the car would not start (post swap) and the power windows would not work at all. The connection on the starter was the problem, so this is where I'm thinking it could be. Possibly the starter itself? I have 12 volts, but nothing happening.

What would happen if I put the black and red wires on my positive lead, and then put the green/black wire on the post grounding the starter?

Currently the green/black wire is on the spade connector, but thats not where I had it to start with. Someone tell me I blew something.

[EtaSport]

Almost 6 hours and nothing?

I gave up on the windows for now and pulled the fuse. The ICV is humming with the key in accessory on. There is 12 volts at the coil but only when touching the positive post and a chassis ground, not the negative post. The fuel pump is not coming on. The system is not pressurized because I pulled the fuse to take off the fuel lines, but it is now hooked back up.

What is every nessesary condition to initiate the fuel pump, and the starter for cranking the engine? Im wondering if the starter could be bad since I had a starting problem before. I just need someone to verify any of this please.

[rs4pro3]

Check for power at the ECU, there won't be a ground on the - post of the coil unless the ECU is working(black wire is the timing control). As for the starter Big Black wire from the battery distrubution block(passenger side upper firewall), and both the Large red wire go to the 13mm nutted post on the starter. The black/yellow and black/green wire should both go to the bottom spade connector, or 8mm/10mm nut(which every your starter has)

[EtaSport]

Alright, I put the two wires to the spade connector and the power windows stopped coming on, but now they wont come on. Seems like there is still a power loss which is why the starter isnt cranking. The relays still click, and the ICV hums.

Its basically doing the same thing it was on sunday when it wouldnt start. How can I check the power at the ecu? Where do the two wires from the starter go?

[rs4pro3]

Large black wire, runs straigh to the Battery distrubution block, or the battery(if mounted up front), It's the large cable that the fuse box, and ECU harness connect to. The red cable runs to the alternator and is the means of charging the battery. As for the ECU, Look up the pin outs, and test all the places where there should be power, and grounds. ICV humming is good, as it gets power threw the fuel pump relay(Red/white wire)
For the starter not to turn, it either is not getting power, is bad, or your ignition switch is bad. You can have the ecu removed and still crank the engine over with the starter.

[rs4pro3]

Online wiring diagrams

http://www.autolib.diakom.ru:8001/CAR/BMW/1988/325i/WIRING%20DIAGRAMS/

Fig 2. is for the ECU wiring. Just unplug the connector and test for voltage at the right pins on the plug
Pin 37 should be switch 12volt from main relay
Pin 14 should be constant 12 volt from where the ECU harness attaches to the battery cable

[EtaSport]

Arlight thanks for the help, been going well so far. I had the two wires on the top spade connector instead of the bottom one. doh! So I wired them correct and now everything works. I buttoned everything up and fired the motor. Cranked and 5 seconds later started. Running very badly had to keep my foot on the gas to keep running. Threw a number 10 code for injectors 1,3, and 5.

I'm going to check a few more things and see what goes on. Think it may take awhile for the computer to adjust to the motor?

[rs4pro3]

Check the round plug under the intake manifold, and see if those injectors are getting power, It shouldn't take it long at all to get used to the new motor. The ruff running is probally those 3 injectors not working.

[EtaSport]

Okay. I will check that harness. The ICV is reading correct ohm range, but the plug is only getting 6.5 volts where the haynes says it needs at least 10. I dont know if the motor is warm enough to read the o2 sensor but I'm not sure if I wired that up correctly. If I mixed up the two white wires what would happen?

I did get the motor to idle on its own but it was rough, only 5 inches of vacuum. I will try some more things and let you know whats going on.

[rs4pro3]

I Don't think mixing up the white wires would matter, they are both grounds, one for the heater and one for the sensor iteself.
The icv should have 12 volts to it coming from the fuel pump relay, as long as the injectors.

[EtaSport]

Okay, still havent figured out what wrong. Here is what I know;

Car runs but runs badly; 5 inches of vacuum at idle, car has full fuel pressure; 3.0 bar, all 6 plugs are sparking, but 1,2 and 4 (plugs) are carbon fouled. I believe that the injectors are either off sequence or not even functioning leaving half of the motor essential turned off. We read that there are two different control inputs for the injectors. What exactly does control the injector squirt, and do they all fire at once, or do they fire 1,3,5 and 2,4,6?

I undid the injector plug and put some dielectric grease in there. Is there a way to test voltage in the connector?

It seems everything is there, but the injectors are messed up. Would this be located in the ECU or the relays?

[rs4pro3]

136, and 246 The injectors fire in batches, so 1,3, and 6 all fire then the other 3. Back probe the terminals to see if they are getting voltage. Better yet, pull the fuel rail, undo coil, and place baggies over the injector tips, Crank the car and make sure all 6 are squirting and they are squirting close to the same amount.

[EtaSport]

Okay, update. Car is only running on 2 injectors which are 2 and 4. 6 is getting a signal but not spraying. I am assuming it to be dead. 1, 3 and 5 are not getting a signal as confirmed by the engine code. I looked at those wiring diagrams for the motronic plug. Pin 16 and 17 are the split injector pins. It would appear that these two pins controlled each side, 135, 246. But pin 17 was showing continuity for all 6, and pin 16 was showing nothing.

How am I going to get 135 controlled?

It seems as though I have many a problems.

[EtaSport]

Update:

I hardwired 1,3,5 directly to Pin 16 of the harness right before the ecu, and now they are all working. Everything on the motor is workinig except injector number 6. I will be replacing all 6 injectors hopefully very soon.

I ran the car with some fuel injector cleaner to try and see if 6 was just dirty or clogged but no avail. I am already pleased even with 5 cylinders, it was worth it.