pull to the right

[davem]

Okay so this issue is stumping me. Recently noticed that my E30 pulls to the right pretty badly, like let go of the wheel and the car wants to slowly switch lanes bad.

When I got the car (almost 1 year ago) it needed a new tie rod end and an alignment so I replaced both assemblies and took it to an alignment shop. I got new tires (same size & make as the old ones) about a month ago and didn't notice anything unusual, just that everything was the ride was much smoother - the problem may have originated at that point, I'm not sure.

Anyways, I've done some tests to check for brakes issues - brake dust on wheels is uniform, no contact noise, no rotor/wheel temperature difference.

Took it in today for an alignment and the tech says that he swapped the front tires side to side and the problem is gone. As they are directional tires he had to pull the tires off and remount them properly. The pulling returned. At this point I decided to have it re aligned even though the tech said the suspension looked tight. The car didn't need to be realigned as it was pretty much spot on... So they think something is wrong with the tires... and $160 later I am no better off. lol this car...

Anybody heard of anything like this before?

[davem]

ttt stumped!

[warmsquash1]

Okay so this issue is stumping me. Recently noticed that my E30 pulls to the right pretty badly, like let go of the wheel and the car wants to slowly switch lanes bad.

When I got the car (almost 1 year ago) it needed a new tie rod end and an alignment so I replaced both assemblies and took it to an alignment shop. I got new tires (same size & make as the old ones) about a month ago and didn't notice anything unusual, just that everything was the ride was much smoother - the problem may have originated at that point, I'm not sure.

Anyways, I've done some tests to check for brakes issues - brake dust on wheels is uniform, no contact noise, no rotor/wheel temperature difference.

Took it in today for an alignment and the tech says that he swapped the front tires side to side and the problem is gone. As they are directional tires he had to pull the tires off and remount them properly. The pulling returned. At this point I decided to have it re aligned even though the tech said the suspension looked tight. The car didn't need to be realigned as it was pretty much spot on... So they think something is wrong with the tires... and $160 later I am no better off. lol this car...

Anybody heard of anything like this before?

Boy does this sound familiar... I would start by checking the right front wheel bearing, brake hose and/or caliper and caliper pins/slides. Jack up the car. Step on the brakes a few times. Before you take the passenger front wheel off, spin the wheel and make sure it rotates free and that while turning there are no weird noises or "bumps" in the rotation. Next hold the top and bottom of the tire and wiggle the wheel top to bottom, not side to side. If there's movement or if there's a noise, it could be a wheel bearing ready to go. If it's good, remove the wheel and take the caliper off and check the hardware to make sure it moves properly. If the caliper cannot self center because of frozen hardware, it will pull but won't necessarily make a lot of dust. If that checks out, try pushing the caliper piston in slowly with a C-clamp WITHOUT clamping the hose or opening the bleeder. If it doesn't go back relatively easy, then you may have either a bad hose or a frozen piston. to find out which, reinstall the caliper and step on the brakes to allow the piston to come back out (assuming it went in at all) and clamp the brake hose either with vise grips with cardboard in the jaws or, preferably, a brake hose clamp. Remove the caliper and open the bleeder. Try to push the piston in again. If it goes right in, you have a bad hose. If it's still hard or won't go, you need a caliper. If everything checks out, repeat the process on the passenger side REAR and while you're in there, double check that the e-brake cable on that side isn't frozen or that the shoes aren't deteriorating inside the drum and getting bound up in the rotor. I think you will find the issue in the brakes somewhere by doing this. Hope this helps and good luck!!

[Ceeker]

Like he said; most probably problem is a sticking caliper; it doesn't have to show obvious signs; it could be hanging up enough that it is causing resistance. I know this sounds pretty basic...but check tire pressure the most obvious thing. maybe you got a rim leak after mounting; It is possible ,and low tire pressure will cause pulling or cause it to wonder.
If they are really really cheapy tires, might have a slipped belt from factory. Also could be the potential. But before returning to the tire shop ranting at the guy. Check everything first. I'm sure you'll find it!

like he said !!!good luck!

[davem]

Thanks for the advice man - I'll try some of those break caliper tests. I also figured it wasn't the brakes because took the calipers off and lubed up the pins and replaced the rubber boots when I did pads and rotors right after I got the car.

Tire pressure was one of the first things I checked. Same on both sides. I wish that was the cause lol.

Here's something odd, I just switched the two front tires and it doesn't pull to the right anymore. If anything it seems to be biased to the left now. The tires are directional so I'm going to have to swap them back. So maybe the shop was onto something....

[warmsquash1]

Based on that I would have to agree with Ceeker then. It's probably a shifted belt on the tire that was originally on the passenger front. Sometimes when a radial tire breaks a belt it slides sideways, not up. If that's the case, you won't get a vibration, but you will get a pull. If they're relatively new tires, I would go back to the tire guy and see if it can be replaced. See if they can put that tire/rim on a spin balancer. Any deviation of the tire or the rim will be apparent. It will also show if it wants a big amount of weight in one spot. Anything over .75 of an ounce when they were just balanced would probably give a hint as to where the issue is. I wouldn't cock punch him or anything, just explain what you checked and see if there's a manufacturer warranty or something on it. Also, did you get any road hazard warranty when you bought them? Just sayin'...

[davem]

Yep I went to Discount Tire and bought replacement insurance... Funny thing is, I kind of regretted doing that immediately after...guess it was a damn good thing I did!

[davem]

Hmmm...

So thanks to a friend I was able to rule out tires/wheels. We swapped all four wheels for his and the car still pulled.

So tires are fine, alignment is fine, suspension seems tight, I guess i'm gonna half to pull the calipers off...which is annoying because the pads look like they have uniform wear so I doubt it's them.

Any chance you can have something like happen after fiddling w/ the steering column? I accidentally removed and lost a fracture bolt which allowed the column to move up and down vertically. I got another bolt and the column is bolted up nice and tight but I kind of wonder about that...

[warmsquash1]

The column bolt shouldn't be an issue as long as it was replaced with the same type of bolt or equivalent. Also, everything in the column would be either play related or having a knock over bumps or the wheel won't be centered. It shouldn't have anything to do with play...Also, when you redid the slide pins and stuff, did you notice any brake fluid on or near the pads, or any other chemical contamination? If so then that may be it. The pads are porous and act like a sponge. When that stuff gets in there and then heats up it becomes almost like a glue. If all that's fine I would look to the rear at the cables, shoes, and everything else. If it pulls to the right it has to be something on that side...

[warmsquash1]

Oops... I meant the column shouldn't have anything to do with PULLING... It's too late and I'm three sheets at this point....

[davem]

Thanks for the help! Weird thing is, there was that combination of tires (fronts swapped with each other, with backward direction) that got rid of the pull...it's just so weird.

[warmsquash1]

Yep... That'll do it too. If the tires were mounted the wrong way on a directional tire, sometimes there's more rolling resistance in that direction and would cause a pull. It's also extremely dangerous in the rain as it will pool up the water under the tire instead of dispersing it to reach the tar. Glad it all worked out for you and it was cheap!!

[davem]

Yep... That'll do it too. If the tires were mounted the wrong way on a directional tire, sometimes there's more rolling resistance in that direction and would cause a pull. It's also extremely dangerous in the rain as it will pool up the water under the tire instead of dispersing it to reach the tar. Glad it all worked out for you and it was cheap!!

lol I haven't fixed anything unfortunately :(

Well the tires were mounted correctly by the tire shop, but the mechanic I went to noticed that switching the front tires so that the direction was wrong eliminated the pull. So they remounted the front tires so that the direction was correct. The pull returned.

Yesterday I tried doing the same thing, and putting the front tires on so that the "direction" was backward eliminated the pull... but switching the fronts to the back made no difference.

I'm going to fiddle w/ the brakes today after work...

[davem]

How hot should the rotors be if they are sticking enough to cause a pull? I did a freeway blast and pulled off the exit without using the brakes and both of the fronts weren't hot at all to the touch.

how likely is it that I have a bent control arm?

[davem]

Update:

Aside from front and rear sway bar bushings and front sway bar links, everything in the suspension is new. Had it realigned and we still have the pull... so I guess the suspension is fine. Caster seems to be back to normal, front toe is where it should be... rear toe is out, is the difference enough to cause a pull?



Car is on H&R sport springs.