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    #16
    A very small difference in rear tow can cause a pull. That's what I would have guessed the whole time.

    Why are the rear numbers different on before/after? The rear has no adjustments. Unless you have adjustable RTABs?
    Originally posted by Gruelius
    and i do not know what bugg brakes are.

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      #17
      Originally posted by KenC View Post
      A very small difference in rear tow can cause a pull. That's what I would have guessed the whole time.

      Why are the rear numbers different on before/after? The rear has no adjustments. Unless you have adjustable RTABs?
      Don't have adjustable rtabs, not sure why it's different?

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        #18
        Yeah the difference is suspect. There aren't any adjustments in the rear.

        New trailing arm bushings should equalize the toe.
        Originally posted by Gruelius
        and i do not know what bugg brakes are.

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          #19
          Originally posted by KenC View Post
          Yeah the difference is suspect. There aren't any adjustments in the rear.

          New trailing arm bushings should equalize the toe.
          Right before the alignment, got new rtabs and subframe bushings...

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            #20
            The right rear wheel is way off and will cause the pull. That could be because the rear trailing arm bushings are bad, or that trailing arm could be bent. Since the RTAB's are new, the answer (and solution) is easy, just replace that trailing arm.

            An alternative to replacing that trailing arm (it isn't bent much) would be to install weld in camber/toe adjusters. If you are going to track that car that would be the best solution as you'd then have the ability to adjust the rear alignment.
            The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
            Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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              #21
              Originally posted by jlevie View Post
              The right rear wheel is way off and will cause the pull. That could be because the rear trailing arm bushings are bad, or that trailing arm could be bent. If the RTAB's are new, the answer (and solution) is easy, just replace that trailing arm. But if the RTAB's aren't new you can't say which is the cause. In that case I'd replace the trailing arm bushings (and subframe bushings) and then see what the rear alignment looks like. If still off, replace that trailing arm.
              hmmm all new oem bushings in the rear, look's like I need a new trailing arm!
              Last edited by davem; 07-30-2011, 10:51 AM.

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                #22
                So we sure that the toe spec in the rear is the issue? because some pple are telling me that it's not out enough to pull the car, swapping a trailing arm is a lot of work, i have one to try out though...

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by davem View Post
                  So we sure that the toe spec in the rear is the issue? because some pple are telling me that it's not out enough to pull the car, swapping a trailing arm is a lot of work, i have one to try out though...
                  You have essentially no toe-in on the right side and more camber on that side. That will definitely make the car pull to the right.
                  The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                  Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by jlevie View Post
                    You have essentially no toe-in on the right side and more camber on that side. That will definitely make the car pull to the right.
                    ah okay, thanks as always Jim

                    I figured that the car rear was acting like a rudder but and that the right rear had excessive toe in, but the opposite is true when you look at the spec sheet

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                      #25
                      Well if anyone cares, the culprit was not the trailing arm. I had it replaced with another one, fresh new bushing (again) and the car pulled exactly the way it did before. I would be choked if I hadn't finally found the issue.

                      It was my 2 month old Falken 512s. The reason I ruled them out earlier is because a front-to-back rotation did not change anything (it should if there is a defective tire causing radial pull according to tirerack.com) and swapping all for wheels/tires with a friends' (who happens to drive a slammed e30 on tires purchased used...) did not change anything. Good thing my mechanic recommended trying another set of tires with no pulling issues.

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                        #26
                        camber will not cause a pull. only caster and toe will cause a pull.

                        glad you got it sorted.


                        Originally posted by nwvb bmw
                        That guy is going to lock you in his basement and make you ware a little pirate costume.

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