m20 rookie valve adjustment- need a little clarification

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  • clydesdale
    Mod Crazy
    • Aug 2006
    • 631

    #1

    m20 rookie valve adjustment- need a little clarification

    I rotated the engine with a 22mm socket on the crankshaft bolt. I rotated it and watched the exhaust valve open then close and then the intake open then close. But, at this point where both are closed, I am not able to get the lobes on BOTH intake and exhaust to be pointing down. So, how do you know where TDC is?
    Also, I did not make any adjustments, but did put a new gasket and tightened the cover. Can I re-open it, or would I then need a new gasket? Thanks
  • bmwguy325is
    E30 Fanatic
    • May 2011
    • 1263

    #2
    All you are doing is adjusting the valves? WHy do you need to dead center?? You can most likley reuse the new gasket.
    Look this is how I do it. I get the right sized feeler guage. I just use and allen wrench. I bought a nice top dollar 10mm wrench. I then make me a little diagram of each cylinder with an exhaust and intake valve. Then I pull the coil wire so I can use the starter motor to bump the engine around. THen you can look and see which valves are off the came IE the lobe is down. Adjust all that you can and mark them off your list. Then bump the started and bam........
    sigpic"If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." -Ferdinand Porsche
    The ugly car: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=209713

    Comment

    • Adrian_Visser
      R3VLimited
      • Jun 2006
      • 2823

      #3
      I suggest you remove all the spark plugs so you aren't fighting the compression stroke. All you need to do to adjust the valves is get the cam lobe pointing down so that the rocker for the valve you are adjusting is at its lowest point of lift.

      '89 Alpine S52 with goodies

      Comment

      • bmwguy325is
        E30 Fanatic
        • May 2011
        • 1263

        #4
        Originally posted by Adrian_Visser
        I suggest you remove all the spark plugs so you aren't fighting the compression stroke. All you need to do to adjust the valves is get the cam lobe pointing down so that the rocker for the valve you are adjusting is at its lowest point of lift.
        Why do all the extra work? Pull the coil wire and bump the starter.
        sigpic"If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." -Ferdinand Porsche
        The ugly car: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=209713

        Comment

        • clydesdale
          Mod Crazy
          • Aug 2006
          • 631

          #5
          Shouldn't you be able to adjust the intake and exhaust valve of the same cylinder without further moving the crank what you are in the position of TDC. The problem I am having is that both the intake lobe and exhaust lobe won't point downward at the same time. What am I missing.
          I have the plugs out and am easily rotating the motor with a ratchet.

          Comment

          • bmwguy325is
            E30 Fanatic
            • May 2011
            • 1263

            #6
            Your not missing a thing. TDC is reffering to the #1 cylinder to set base timing. I get what you are saying in that you want the piston to be on the compression stroke. You may not be able to do both valves at the same time. Thus why you make a list and do them one at a time. Then bump the starter and adjust the ones you have not.
            sigpic"If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." -Ferdinand Porsche
            The ugly car: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=209713

            Comment

            • b*saint
              No R3VLimiter
              • May 2006
              • 3794

              #7
              Yea you just need to be on the part of the lope that has NO lift on it. TDC or BDC doesn't matter.
              Ma che cazzo state dicendo? :|

              Comment

              • Adrian_Visser
                R3VLimited
                • Jun 2006
                • 2823

                #8
                Originally posted by bmwguy325is
                Why do all the extra work? Pull the coil wire and bump the starter.
                Because it is way easier to control how much the engine turns over with the plugs out. I used a piece of jumper wire and touched together pins 11 and 14 on the diagnostic connector to turn the engine over from the engine bay. Besides how long does it take to pull the plugs, 5 minutes?

                '89 Alpine S52 with goodies

                Comment

                • b*saint
                  No R3VLimiter
                  • May 2006
                  • 3794

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Adrian_Visser
                  Because it is way easier to control how much the engine turns over with the plugs out. I used a piece of jumper wire and touched together pins 11 and 14 on the diagnostic connector to turn the engine over from the engine bay. Besides how long does it take to pull the plugs, 5 minutes?
                  4 minutes and 27.9 seconds.
                  Ma che cazzo state dicendo? :|

                  Comment

                  • clydesdale
                    Mod Crazy
                    • Aug 2006
                    • 631

                    #10
                    I pulled the plugs and turned it over with a rachet.

                    Comment

                    • Gruelius
                      Wrencher
                      • Oct 2009
                      • 298

                      #11
                      id just turn it over with a spanner and plgus in but im lazy.
                      RIP 84 323i coupe 5spd w/ 14psi
                      89' 318i

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