after a several hour battle trying to remove my seezed fan clutch(which won) i have decided to install a electric fan. I was just wondering if anybody has taken on this project and there recommendations are. What i had in mind was to delete the a/c and install a large diameter pushing fan to the front side of the rad where the condenser would be thus giving me more room in the engine bay.
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ditching my clutch fan...
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That can be done, but you will need an 82-83C thermo switch, additional relay, custom fan brackets & shroud and at least an 16" 1800CFM fan (a 16" 2300CFAM fan in warmer climates). The overall cost of this will be greater than a fan, clutch, and waterpump.
If the fan nut is trully seized on the water pump shaft such that it can't be removed with a counterhold tool, the entire wanter pump and fan can be removed as a unit and a new water pump and fan cluth installed. Keep in mind that the fan nut is a left hand thread.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
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Originally posted by Bearmw View PostRecommendation: SEARCH FUNCTION
I removed my clutch fan in my M10, the real reason was to remove parasitic power, PS/AC also removed, nor to gain more room in the engine bay(lol m10)
Instead of fabbing a bracket or anything new, I cut out the condenser coil from it's bracket and used the factory aux fan mount. the aux fan is controlled through megasquirt and only turns on when the motor hits 190F, and turns off after the motor reaches 175F. My thermostat is fully open at 160 iirc.
Here's the bracket with the coil removed. lots of air escapes on the sides, but it cools off the motor, even in this horrible NC heat(centuries... 100F+) after autocross runs and sitting in traffic.'84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bearmw
Recommendation: SEARCH FUNCTION
"with 74 posts you seem to lack the ability to have content in your posts. what happens when the next person searches for clutch fan delete?"
I guess the value of our response is determined by the number of posts? And thank you for reading all of my posts BTW.
I have gotten useful info from this site long before I began posting and one of the most useful things I have discovered is that it is generally best to research the topic through previous postings and stickys prior to asking certain questions. Often I found my question was already asked and answered. After searching I was then able to ask a more specific detailed question which I imagine was easier to respond to. Take my advice with a grain of salt.
It is a harsh world for all of us (me to);)Never argue with stupid people, they will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience. -Mark Twain
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Originally posted by 85e325 View Postyou make a strong point but with goal of doing a v8 swap in the future the extra clearence would make things easier. I was also thinking about using the orginal shroud and modifing it to work with the electric fan.Originally posted by bmwm42PNW vulture pm me for parts
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Originally posted by Bearmw View PostQuote:
Originally Posted by Bearmw
Recommendation: SEARCH FUNCTION
"with 74 posts you seem to lack the ability to have content in your posts. what happens when the next person searches for clutch fan delete?"
I guess the value of our response is determined by the number of posts? And thank you for reading all of my posts BTW.
I have gotten useful info from this site long before I began posting and one of the most useful things I have discovered is that it is generally best to research the topic through previous postings and stickys prior to asking certain questions. Often I found my question was already asked and answered. After searching I was then able to ask a more specific detailed question which I imagine was easier to respond to. Take my advice with a grain of salt.
It is a harsh world for all of us (me to);)
To the op: if more room is the goal, redo the assembly and go with a slim spal fan. My solution is pretty much free, but it's not a permanent solution for something that you're suggesting. And when i go turbo you'd better believe that's not going to be my cooling setup. I don't even know if my bandaid solution could even cool a m20.'84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi
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Lol nice! There are actually OEM brackets that you can still buy to mount the stock fan in the stock location W/O the AC core ;) IIRC they were about $10 for the pair.
Originally posted by Jaxx_ View Postwith 74 posts you seem to lack the ability to have content in your posts. what happens when the next person searches for clutch fan delete?
I removed my clutch fan in my M10, the real reason was to remove parasitic power, PS/AC also removed, nor to gain more room in the engine bay(lol m10)
Instead of fabbing a bracket or anything new, I cut out the condenser coil from it's bracket and used the factory aux fan mount. the aux fan is controlled through megasquirt and only turns on when the motor hits 190F, and turns off after the motor reaches 175F. My thermostat is fully open at 160 iirc.
Here's the bracket with the coil removed. lots of air escapes on the sides, but it cools off the motor, even in this horrible NC heat(centuries... 100F+) after autocross runs and sitting in traffic.Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205
OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827
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Originally posted by Jean View PostLol nice! There are actually OEM brackets that you can still buy to mount the stock fan in the stock location W/O the AC core ;) IIRC they were about $10 for the pair.'84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi
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Bimmerworld sells some Spal fan mounting brackets, fan sealing gasket (to prevent air flow loss out the sides) which I like, and a fan controller. I think Miller performance may also sell some decent fan stuff but I don't know the details. Massive sells some brackets as well. I guess the best setup for you will depend on your specific cooling needs and budget. For my M30 I went with a big Spal pusher, their brackets, the seal, and just wired into my existing wiring without an aftermarket controller. I also am using the stock temperature thermostat. Spal is mounted directly on the E28 radiator but that will have to change if I reinstall the AC.Never argue with stupid people, they will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience. -Mark Twain
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