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I just did this a few days ago. cut the 2 wires from the resistor and splice them together. Also, change your Aux Fan fuse to 30A (I think it's number 3 in the fuse box). Worked pretty well for me.
I just did this a few days ago. cut the 2 wires from the resistor and splice them together. Also, change your Aux Fan fuse to 30A (I think it's number 3 in the fuse box). Worked pretty well for me.
Yes, done this mod on both my E30's, Aux fans run pretty much full time (ac use) and no wiring issues. wire gauge is the same on both sides of the fan (high and low)
I saved 15% on my Bimmer parts by switching to ...
if you find the temp sensor on your rad you can open up the connector swap the two wires that aren't the groung from the harness. this way, when the low speed fan is activated, high kicks on.
Originally posted by Lof8
4 doors allow you to transport more whores.
therefore, their value is much greater.
Yes, done this mod on both my E30's, Aux fans run pretty much full time (ac use) and no wiring issues. wire gauge is the same on both sides of the fan (high and low)
Are you using clutch fan??? Because I'm looking to delete clutch fan but not sure is my 16inch spal electric fan blow enough air to cool down motor while a/c is running.
In my experience a 16" SPAL rated for 2300CFM is approximately equal to the performance of the engine driven fan. When using A/C you need the aux fan and the engine fan (or it's equal). Except on a race car where the last little bit of performance matters the engine driven fan is a better solution than an electric fan and the engine fan is the cheaper solution. A 16" 2300 CFM SPAL, relay kit, and 82-83C thermo switch is a good bit more expensive than a brand new fan and clutch. And then there is the problem of coming up with a mount for the SPAL that doesn't involve the radiator core.
The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
In my experience a 16" SPAL rated for 2300CFM is approximately equal to the performance of the engine driven fan. When using A/C you need the aux fan and the engine fan (or it's equal). Except on a race car where the last little bit of performance matters the engine driven fan is a better solution than an electric fan and the engine fan is the cheaper solution. A 16" 2300 CFM SPAL, relay kit, and 82-83C thermo switch is a good bit more expensive than a brand new fan and clutch. And then there is the problem of coming up with a mount for the SPAL that doesn't involve the radiator core.
my setup is a 16inch curve pusher connect to temp switch using e36 lower temp switch and my spal have a mini shroud.
Just as a side note to this. I was having problems with my battery going dead. Charge, zoom, dead, charge, zoom , dead. I had my aux fan wired to high so that when the a/c was on the fan was activated. Ice cold a/c. I now believe that some of the dead battery issue may have been because I was NOT pushing off the a/c switch when turning off the car.
Meaning that upon starting the car, the system was drawing battery current until the alt and engine fired up. This may be causing premature battery failure. The aux fan draws a lot of current. Battery was 3 years old anyway and in this Florida heat it was time for a new one, however I do believe the draw didn't help.
So my suggestion is if you do this mod. Be sure to push the a/c off before turning the key to the off position and on start up, make sure the ac switch is pushed off. Know the condition of your alt/battery BEFORE doing this mod. I am not 100 % sure this was my problem, but its just a thought..............Be blessed............G.
I really don't think that would have been the cause of your battery problems. Normally there isn't enough time between ignition on and start to deplete the battery charge.
You need to test the alternator, have the battery checked, and check for excessive parasitic draw.
The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
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