Intermittent starting problem getting worse.

[navid41691]

So starting a few weeks ago, I would attempt to start my car and it would just crank. I turned the key and tried again and it would start. This slowly got worse where I had to try three times, four times, and crank longer each time till eventually it wouldn't start at all. I did some diagnostics and searched on here and thought it was the fuel pump (it wasn't getting power/ I couldn't hear it) So i changed the fuel pump relay (didn't fix it), then changed pump, and still nothing. I went back under the hood and noticed that the little four inch tube from the idle control valve to the throttle body was cracked. After sealing that up, I tried to start the car and it worked great (don't know if it was coincidence) but it started everytime i tired it that day. The next day, it didn;t start at all again, and i'm back to square one. And ideas on WTF the problem could be?
I'm stuck driving a brand new cr-v which sucks huge nuts. uncomfortable, slow, and terrrible on gas. So help a brotha get back to the luxury of an e30

[dj01540i6sp]

Check your fuel pump connections, Will it build up pressure to the fuel rail? GL

[navid41691]

The connections are good. I don't even hear the pump going at all. Keep in mind it's a new pump, relay, and fuse.

[jlevie]

The fuel pump is controlled by the DME and only turns on when the DME sees timing data from a rotating engine. Unless you have a pretty noisy pump you won't hear the pump when cranking the engine. To tell if the pump has power when cranking you can use a test light or meter. To tell if the fuel system is working properly tee a pressure gauge into the line that feeds the rail. If you have normal pressure in the rail while cranking and the pump runs something else preventing the engine from firing (like intake leaks).

When in a no start condition, the other check is to see if there is spark. No spark could mean a bad coil, bad CPS, bad main relay, or bad DME. The latter three will also prevent the fuel pump from operating.

[navid41691]

The fuel pump is controlled by the DME and only turns on when the DME sees timing data from a rotating engine. Unless you have a pretty noisy pump you won't hear the pump when cranking the engine. To tell if the pump has power when cranking you can use a test light or meter. To tell if the fuel system is working properly tee a pressure gauge into the line that feeds the rail. If you have normal pressure in the rail while cranking and the pump runs something else preventing the engine from firing (like intake leaks).

When in a no start condition, the other check is to see if there is spark. No spark could mean a bad coil, bad CPS, bad main relay, or bad DME. The latter three will also prevent the fuel pump from operating.

Yeah I did test the fuel pump and it wasn't getting power so I think you're right about it being one of those, bad coil, cps, main relay or dme. I'll test each of these. Thanks man

[b*saint]

Yea a brand new CRV sucks so much fucking ass Id rather drive a first generation Kia optima with three wheels. :|

[navid41691]

Yea a brand new CRV sucks so much fucking ass Id rather drive a first generation Kia optima with three wheels. :|

Dude, i've been driving it for a week and I still cannot find a comfortable driving position. It's supposed to be a fuel efficient 4 cylinder..it blows on mpgs. and you have to wait about 13 minutes for it to move after giving it gas.

[b*saint]

Lol 13 minutes.

[jlevie]

Dude, i've been driving it for a week and I still cannot find a comfortable driving position. It's supposed to be a fuel efficient 4 cylinder..it blows on mpgs. and you have to wait about 13 minutes for it to move after giving it gas.

It isn't always 13 minutes, sometimes the driver of the vehicle behind gets impatient and starts pushing sooner.

[navid41691]

Update: pulled my Idle control valve out. It was making noise when the key was in the acc position so i pulled it out. Am I supposed to see something in it spinning when I look through the two valves when the key is on?

It isn't spinning, and if it is supposed to, could that be why my car isn't starting?

[b*saint]

its a coil. and it being pulsed with dc. It will hum.

[Fixcinater]

Is your ICV reasonably clean? After I cleaned that and the flapper plate in the intake with carb cleaner, my hard-start condition got better. Both were filthy to the point of being sticky.

[rares]

my good friend navid... i have a couple of suggestions and you may be the judge of this, but i think it may be a little pricey..

i had the same exact problem about a month ago... and actually still have it because i ran out of money...

when u get a crank/no start situation... you need three things... compression, spark, and fuel....it sounds like u have all three since u have replaced a bunch of stuff already.. now:

the next thing to look at is the fuel pressure regulator... its job is to hold fuel pressure at the rail for at least 20-30 minutes so you can start the car easily and provide enough for the first start in the mornings for instance...

if the FPR (fuel pressure reg) goes bad, the valve inside it will leak fuel back to the pump and it will take a little while to start...because the system needs to pull fuel back (hence you cranking 2, 3 times)...

i am now positive that my problem is the FPR and will have to replace it, but it is like $100 ... so that's why i am still having that problem, cause i don't have the cash just yet...

from your symptoms and parts replaced...i think that is what your problem is also...

also yes cleaning the ICV and air boots and all, will give you a better idle, but u need the car to start in order to have idle...

good luck buddy, hopefully this gets u out of that dreadful Honda...hehe

[BMWLOCO]

I'm having the saaaaaaame problem... Crank's for a while and no start.. Fuel is getting to the rail, and no fuel is coming out of the Fuel Pressure Regulator. First problem before was no fuel to the rail, now got a new fuel pump and fuel to the rail is good..

Suggestions..

[powaz]

Sudden, temporary loss of power

I am having a somewhat similar issue. About a month ago, the car wouldn't start after work. A week or so later it happened again on the way to work. Last week I was cruising down the highway and the car just totally lost power for a split second like a hiccup, then a few seconds later for 2-3 seconds like I turned off the ignition. Yesterday the same thing happened again.

It's been a few years since I was doing a lot of DIY auto work, and it was on an air cooled VW - a lot simpler machine! My initial thought was that it's the coil, but now I'm seeing it could be a whole host of things! I just wanted to post my problem in the most relevant thread I could find and see what some people more experienced with these cars thought.

Thanks

EDIT: After reading the previous post, I think I might start with the FPR, as I'm occasionally smelling a little gas in the cabin (would that be a side effect?)- which I thought was just because I needed a muffler (fell off - i have a replacement, just havn't had time to put it on). Yeah... She still needs a little work...