two quick 325is questions before winter comes

[Kozworth]

Hey guys, I just have two questions that I am not sure of and really need to address within the month.

1). P/O said heat worked in the car. I tested it briefly, and it DID work. About a week or so in, I tried when the car was at running temp and it did not work.

I just changed my tbelt/pump/tensioner and filled the car with coolant (already premixed) and Its still nothing. I believe all coolant hoses are warm, so i wouldnt assume its a t stat. I wasnt sure the location of a heatercore, but if it worked oneday i am hoping its something minor.

2). Cluster is acting funny. I know every car forum people have cluster issues and freak out. The e30 got me to school no issues on the cluster. I go to start up, and notice that my speedo doesnt move. Then later that day, I noticed my mpg does not work. Its at infinite when off the throttle but with the slightest bit on the gas it jumps directly to zero. I am just wondering if the mpg had any relevant issue to why the speedo went out. I will look at the harness on the dif in the next couple days.


Most importantly I really need to solve the issue of the heat. I have to throw in a new gas tank very soon its been leaking and will be doing some drivetrain maintenance, but It will be horrid commuting 30 minutes to school fulltime with no heat this winter. Trust me, I did it in my old vw when my heatercore blew.

Thanks in advance

[jlevie]

Since you have recently changed the water pump, the lack of heat could be from an improperly bled cooling system. Try the following:

1) Using ramps or a jack get the front of the car 1' or more higher than
the rear. That will make the radiator and bleed screw the highest point
on the engine and facilitate removal of air.

2) With the bleed screw open, add coolant until no more air comes out of
the bleed.

3) Leave the filler cap off, or at least loose, and set the heat for max
temp and fan speed. Leaving the cap loose will prevent air that's still
in the system from causing a "coolant fountain" once the engine heats
up. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to operating temp. As it
warms up occasionally crack the bleed screw to release any air and top
up the coolant as necessary.

4) Once the engine is at temp bring it up to 2000-2500rpm for a few seconds
several times. Then crack the bleed until no more air is released. At
this point the heater should be throwing lots of hot air, which
indicates that the heater core is filled with coolant. You may have to
repeat this a few times to get all the air out.

5) Drive the car a bit, allow it to cool back down, and recheck the
bleed for air. Over the next few days you may get very small amounts (a
few bubbles) of air out of the bleed screw.

[devon.818]

sounds like SI batteries in the cluster. buy a new one, they are readily avail.

as for heater issue, check your fuses and relays?
heater core is in firewall and i've read is a PITA to change.

[Kozworth]

As for bleeding the coolant.. I had it opened and it wasn't a lot of fluid coming out I didn't want to piss it all out. But if the car idles long enough the temp gauge raises to the tip of the red.. I am gonna retry to bleed the coolant again today after work with the car raised up.

I am going to also look into the cluster. Another issue with it is it makes a rattle noise but when I shift it goes away then reoccurs. I wasn't sure if this was relevant to the cluster malfunctioning aswell.

[Kozworth]

Ttt