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quick question: in-tank fuel pump

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    quick question: in-tank fuel pump

    Is it difficult to replace the in-tank fuel pump on an eta? Mine is dead and a shop quoted me at $300 bucks, including install. I'm just wondering if it's a rather easy replacement, if i can save some money on unecessary labor costs by doing it myself. I have a Haynes manual and access to a lift.

    likewise, the main pump?

    thx

    #2
    its just under the rear seat, pop the seat up and there is the access cover


    Not sure if e30s have a 'sock' like other car (an in the tank strainer) but replace this too if so.

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      #3
      The intake pump is below the rear seat, as stated. It's on the right side. If you peel the foam away there is a black panel covering it.

      The main pump is on the driver's side just ahead of the rear wheel. You have to do it from under the car. Neither one is very challenging to do.

      And no, they do not have a 'sock' only a small strainer that comes with the new pump.
      Adam Fogg- '88 M3

      Common sense- It's the new 'gifted'

      Comment


        #4
        Pull the seat , remove a few screws-- while you sit! It is so easy . Go for it.

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          #5
          You've never done it before- know that taking the fuel level sending unit out first (the thing with a three-wire-plug and 4 tiny hex nuts) then use two screwdrivers to twist the pump assembly out. You'll need to solder the wires back together- but even if you have to go to radioshack for a soldering gun and solder you'll still save at least $100 and be able to do the replacement in about 30 minutes.

          -Addis

          Doing something M50 related? -> http://www.addissimo.com
          On Myspace? ->http://groups.myspace.com/r3vlimited
          BF2142 SN = BillyGoose

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            #6
            what do you need to solder back together?
            Just a little project im working on
            - http://www.lse30.com -

            Comment


              #7
              i recently replaced my fuel pump (in the parking lot of a local restaurant, no less) and i didnt have to do any soldering... the new pump had crimpable quick connects which attached more solidly than i'd ever expect them to need.
              Jay

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                #8
                what the hell are you guys talking about? soldering and crimping? what pump are you buying?

                i just bought a new in-tank pump. had it swapped out in a few minutes once i got those damn factory hose clamps cut off. everything dropped right in and plugged right up. sender plug and pump plug connections were all reused without any modification
                James
                '88 M3

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Addissimo
                  You've never done it before- know that taking the fuel level sending unit out first (the thing with a three-wire-plug and 4 tiny hex nuts) then use two screwdrivers to twist the pump assembly out. You'll need to solder the wires back together- but even if you have to go to radioshack for a soldering gun and solder you'll still save at least $100 and be able to do the replacement in about 30 minutes.

                  -Addis
                  ????

                  Its an in and out job. Soldering is not necessary.
                  Adam Fogg- '88 M3

                  Common sense- It's the new 'gifted'

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Hey Writer_Printer,

                    tell use specifically where you are, and maybe someone who is local can meet up with you and help you out a bit. Once you see how easy some things are, you'll be tearing into your car in no time!!! :)

                    I've got a good used fuel pump if you want to go that route.

                    I think whoever mentioned soldering was talking about the rig where you replace just the electric pump with a generic pump, not the whole thing with the metal pickup housing.......... I've done it both ways, and it's easier to just swap the whole thing out, but if you want to save a little $$$ and don't mind a little rigging on your car, you can just replace the pump with a generic pump and it'll work fine. The ones that I've done this way did not require any soldering, I just ground the little electric contact terminals off the old pump enough to free the eye connectors, then screwed those onto the new pump using the supplied screws.... I just used a hose clamp to hold the pump body to the old metal pickup tube and that was it.

                    Still working like a champ- after ~9 years.........


                    Bret.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      hmm, well that would make sense i guess. but when i took out my 17yr old pump, everything was so used up looking it wasn't worth it to even TRY and do any soldering. the strainer had a hole in it, there was tons of corrosion, and it just plain sucked.

                      there's definately peace of mind now that i KNOW i have all brand new pumps, sender, and filter in there. i did notice my new vdo/bosch pump was made in the czech republic and not germany though.
                      James
                      '88 M3

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Rigmaster
                        Hey Writer_Printer,

                        tell use specifically where you are, and maybe someone who is local can meet up with you and help you out a bit. Once you see how easy some things are, you'll be tearing into your car in no time!!! :)

                        I've got a good used fuel pump if you want to go that route.

                        I think whoever mentioned soldering was talking about the rig where you replace just the electric pump with a generic pump, not the whole thing with the metal pickup housing.......... I've done it both ways, and it's easier to just swap the whole thing out, but if you want to save a little $$$ and don't mind a little rigging on your car, you can just replace the pump with a generic pump and it'll work fine. The ones that I've done this way did not require any soldering, I just ground the little electric contact terminals off the old pump enough to free the eye connectors, then screwed those onto the new pump using the supplied screws.... I just used a hose clamp to hold the pump body to the old metal pickup tube and that was it.

                        Still working like a champ- after ~9 years.........


                        Bret.
                        I live in Grand Haven, MI which is right on lake michigan. hold up your right hand, face the palm toward you, and point to about an inch down from the bottom of your pinky. I think a Michigan e30 meet is in 'hand' for all us wolverines

                        I already have a new pump ordered, and thanks for all the information. I'm sure i'll be able to handle it. My car has no rust problems or anything so i'm hoping it will all go smoothly.

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