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    replacing clutch

    I was thinking of getting the Sachs kit from bavauto and attempting installing it with the help of a friend, to save money and for the experience. My buddy says it should take about a day. We're pretty mechanically inclined but are there any S.N.A.F.U.'s or anything unexpected I might run into? I don't want to get halfway through it and get blind-sided by some miniscule detail I overlooked. I'm definately going to look through a Chiltons or Haynes before we begin.
    Thanks,
    Kris

    #2
    order pressure plate bolts and flywheel bolts and be prepared to possibly have to have the flywheel refaced. Also, as long as you are there you should redo all shifter bushings, guibo and center support bearing, as well as pilot bearing and engine and trans seals. Get a clutch alignment tool if you can too. Sorry, a bunch of this stuff probably comes with your kit, just not sure, none of it came with mine but I ordered elsewhere.

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      #3
      Also get new exhuast hardware and gaskets.
      85 325e 2.7 ITB'd stroker

      Comment


        #4
        make sur ethe tranny mounts, rear transmission seal, and shifter bearings are all good.
        My mountains are better than yours.

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          #5
          It's pain to get tranny housing bolts out if you dont use right tools, other then that, everything is straight forward, and alignment tool is must.

          :)
          95' M3.
          90' 325i Turboed.
          87' 325eS Fixed.

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            #6
            Originally posted by Kavkazia
            It's pain to get tranny housing bolts out if you dont use right tools, other then that, everything is straight forward, and alignment tool is must.

            :)
            Oh yeah, gotta have those E-Torx sockets. 19.99 @ Sears, made by Lisle.

            I got by without the alignment gauge, used a vernier caliper, worked like a charm. But, I had to figure out how to use it, couldn't figure it for about 20 minutes.

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              #7
              Make sure you have at least 1 universal joint for 3/8 drive sockets. And about 1-2 feet of extensions REALLY helps. Air tools are good too, but not a must. And just like the others said, do all the gaskets and seals, if you do them now, they might just last till the end of the car. Oh, and be sure if you replace the rear main crankshaft seal, to drain the oil before you take off the seal housing, if you dont, oil WILL go drain out (ask me how i know).

              matt

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                #8
                Originally posted by matt325is
                Oh, and be sure if you replace the rear main crankshaft seal, to drain the oil before you take off the seal housing, if you dont, oil WILL go drain out (ASK ME HOW I KNOW)
                matt


                HAHAHAHAHAHAH!!! NOT SAYING YOUR A DUMBASS OR ANYTHING, ITS JUST FUNNY THE WAY YOU SAID IT AND ME PICTURING IT.

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                  #9
                  lol, yeah, it took 2 towels to soak all that shit up. Then, there was still residue on the ground, and i had to keep working, so my hair was matted with oil and grime.. ew

                  matt

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                    #10
                    People talk about light weight flywheels, builds and looses revs quicker, there are probably other advantages. Are there any decently priced aftermarket LTW flywheels? I remember Jordan thinking about/ getting his flywheel machined down, I just want to look at all my options.

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                      #11
                      cheapest I've seen new for the m20 is 399 from http://www.mpdonline.com/bmw.htm
                      BEERTECH

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