Just bought 87 E30, need help!

[raywillet]

Hi everyone!

Just joined the forums, picked up a 1987 325es for $400 the other day.

Just getting it home, the dogs dig it!


Cliffs notes is the PO overheated the original engine, replaced with another m20b27, but couldn't get it to run right. I've just now started cracking into whats going on, as I've got crank, spark, fuel, but no vroom. Tries to start for about 2 seconds then cuts off. I hear a buzzing right before and during the cut off, when sitting in driver seat with door open sounds like by rear driver wheel, so thinking fuel pump(?). Also noticed that Fuel gauge works, as do the idiot lights and the overhead panel, but no tach, radio, or 13 button OBC. Anyway, more on that later. Right now I need help with IDing a couple things.

Whats this? Under the hood, passenger side firewall. Has a keyway in it, and 2 button looking things.


Pretty neat wire, huh? Any ideas of where it goes?


Also, think this has anything to do with the no start?


Just looking for advice on where to start cracking this nut. Had to buy a new coil and cold start valve, since the coil is cracked, and valve is leaky. Hope to have that sometime this week so I can get back under the hood next weekend. Thank you ahead of time for any help!

[Robert Fisher]

It coil being cracked is a good possibility it is the problem and the cold start valve can easily flood the engine if it is leaking. The fuel pump is back there somewhere but may be commanded on only for a second or two during the start until the crank sensor thinks the engine is running.
Do not know what the other things are with the wires. It could be an alarm that keeps the engine from starting... The OBC might be involved in the start problem if it thinks the start inhibit code is set. Might be some fuses need inspection.

Bob

[603Racing]

I've got $5 on the fuel pressure being the problem. What's the over/under on this one? :)

Check the FPR. If it looks good, check the fuel pressure. Both checks are quick, easy, and free.

[jlevie]

The first thing to do would be to check the rail pressure, which should be 2.5bar (36.75psi) on this engine. After that, check for intake leaks and operation of the cold start valve.

[raywillet]

Waiting on my cold start valve to show up before I pressure test the fuel system, so I was poking around and came across a few more questions.

Where are the connectors that hook into the radiator?


Are these those connectors, or where do they go? (Note one in foreground, one back. This is driver headlight area.)


Ground strap to hood?


Thanks for all the help so far. Hopefully I'll have all my parts and tools by the weekend to actually tear into this project properly.

[Insane E30]

i would beat that noise you hear from the rear is the power antenna motor...i had the same noise in that location and thats what it was, but my antenna is broke so it took me a while to figure it out

also i have that exact same cable in my 325e that is just hanging there, let me know what you find out about that. it doesn't seem to effect anything.

have you tried cranking it with the gas pedal down? after i replaced the head on my car i had the tiniest vacuum leak that would cause it to start running then shut off almost instantly...you could kinda keep it running by playing with the gas though...finally i double checked all my vacuum hoses and one of the clamps was kinda loose, tightened it up and it ran perfect...

so double check the vacuum lines

[raywillet]

Makes sense about the power antenna, it is completely jacked up. Thanks! And when you talk about that same cable, the wire in the first post, or those 2 connectors in my 2nd post?

I've tried cranking with pedal down and what not, didn't really expect it to run since it had been sitting in a shadetree mechanic backyard. Plugs are fouled, fuel leaking around the cold start valve, coil cracked. Gots a few things wrong with it. Luckily I've got the parts on the way, hope to get this thing fired up this weekend!

[Insane E30]

picture 3 from the first post is what i was talking about, the single wire in the engine bay.

[raywillet]

Update

Got back out in the garage today, and it's alive!... sorta. First did some diagnostics, fuel pressure 38lbs at the fuel rail, CPS and Speed sensor tested ok, replaced coil and plugs, replaced cold start valve, replaced the NAPA fuel hose the PO used with actual 30R9 hose.

Cranked it for a while and had a hard time starting. Then I recognized that same old smell, bad gas. After working on my 4 wheeler, my buddys 4 wheeler, and his girls 4 wheeler which all sat and therefore ran like crap, I'm very familiar with that smell. Didn't have a siphon pump, so I disconnected the line from the fuel filter, hooked up fuel line and jumped the fuel pump relay to drain the tank. Replaced with fresh gas.

After a few minutes of trying to start (like vrroooOOOOOMMMMmmm..... off) it finally caught, and would idle very rough as long as the accelerator was completely down. Spitting, backfiring, bad stuff. I'm sure this is a byproduct of the bad gas, and from a car sitting for many years. Possibly vacuum leak.

Tomorrow I plan on replacing fuel filter and getting some sort of fuel treatment/cleaner/etc. What would be the best product for my situation? Am I on the right track? Should I consider pulling the injectors and getting them cleaned or replacing them? I'm also thinking about checking for air leaks by doing a smoke test using a cigar, just need to air out the garage a bit...

Any ideas?

[jlevie]

Replace the fuel filter, check for intake leaks, and have the injectors cleaned and flow tested.

[raywillet]

Pulled out the injectors to clean them and replace seals/orings, put my multimeter on there and they all read 6.4-6.7 ohms. They are stock injectors according to part number on the side. I read stock should be 2.2 ohms. Is that correct? If so, my injectors are bad?

[tH16]

That single wire goes to a connection under the engine between the oil pan and filter. Mine was ripped off as well. Just need to pull the spade connector off and put the wire back in.

[raywillet]

That single wire goes to a connection under the engine between the oil pan and filter. Mine was ripped off as well. Just need to pull the spade connector off and put the wire back in.

Thanks!

[raywillet]

Pulled out the injectors to clean them and replace seals/orings, put my multimeter on there and they all read 6.4-6.7 ohms. They are stock injectors according to part number on the side. I read stock should be 2.2 ohms. Is that correct? If so, my injectors are bad?

So I've been pricing injectors, and am curious if I should just swap into a i engine. Any reason my injectors would all read 6.6 ohms all at once? (New multimeter, new battery).

[Insane E30]

That single wire goes to a connection under the engine between the oil pan and filter. Mine was ripped off as well. Just need to pull the spade connector off and put the wire back in.

whats it used for? oil sensor? oh and thanks, its been bugging me too