My car idles... a bit rough. On start the car idles like it has a bad intake leak then after a few seconds(2-3) the idle becomes very steady but something's going on that you can feel through the whole car, it's kind of a shake in the idle. Many people don't notice it unless I say something but it is pronounced. You can definitely hear it in the exhaust, and feel it in the cab.
The engine accelerates jerkishly when cold in lower rpms but runs really well especially when warm, goes 100mph just fine if I want it to. Feels very smooth and doesn't seem to miss or anything when going wide open. MPG is pretty good too I average 25-28.
I replaced coil, wires, plugs, dist cap, rotor, injectors, timing belt, water pump, crank position sensor, coolant temp sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, most air hoses, intake boot, valve cover gasket and valve adjustments, o2 sensor, cleaned afm and icv.
Three oddities I've noticed. If I unplug the AFM the car runs the same as it does without it besides the CEL being on. A local mechanic says he thinks that may be the issue as these e30s use an "average" if its not getting a correct signal from the AFM. Is there a better way to test this than buying a new/used one and swapping? Rarely, if I'm at a stop light, the CEL will go on until I hit the gas which immediately knocks it off. After this happened I decided to do the stomp test, which worked once in about a hundred tries. I did it every time I got to my destination until it worked. Code 1222 Lambda control 1 came out.
Given all of this information where should I start? Do all of these puzzle pieces come together pointing towards one thing? Analytically I'm thinking the tps might be the issue?
The engine accelerates jerkishly when cold in lower rpms but runs really well especially when warm, goes 100mph just fine if I want it to. Feels very smooth and doesn't seem to miss or anything when going wide open. MPG is pretty good too I average 25-28.
I replaced coil, wires, plugs, dist cap, rotor, injectors, timing belt, water pump, crank position sensor, coolant temp sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, most air hoses, intake boot, valve cover gasket and valve adjustments, o2 sensor, cleaned afm and icv.
Three oddities I've noticed. If I unplug the AFM the car runs the same as it does without it besides the CEL being on. A local mechanic says he thinks that may be the issue as these e30s use an "average" if its not getting a correct signal from the AFM. Is there a better way to test this than buying a new/used one and swapping? Rarely, if I'm at a stop light, the CEL will go on until I hit the gas which immediately knocks it off. After this happened I decided to do the stomp test, which worked once in about a hundred tries. I did it every time I got to my destination until it worked. Code 1222 Lambda control 1 came out.
Given all of this information where should I start? Do all of these puzzle pieces come together pointing towards one thing? Analytically I'm thinking the tps might be the issue?
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