Walbro 255lph. but NO PIGTAILS

[Mr. Burns]

I have only the pump, no wirring.

how can I install this without the pigtails? or is the pump useless to me..?

[TurboJake]

IIRC, the pump is both male spade connectors.

If my memory is correct, you could easily use two female spade terminals. $2.50 at radio shack.

[Mr. Burns]

I was thinking of doing that, however how safe would this me?

the oem bung is well insulated with a plastic clip- am I looking at rolling the dice a little if i'm jimmy-rigging electricity+highpressure gaspumps?

[mattdk318i]

I actually went to autozone and begged one off of them. In the "airtex" pump kits they come with several connectors. Picked out the one i wanted out of the box and it worked like a charm.

That is only if you get a cool parts guy.

[Mr. Burns]

I actually went to autozone and begged one off of them. In the "airtex" pump kits they come with several connectors. Picked out the one i wanted out of the box and it worked like a charm.

That is only if you get a cool parts guy.

yeah...

if I'm not modding a SBC or a full out top fuel Ford dragster, you're pretty much the laughing stock around my neck of the woods...

[mattdk318i]

hmm, gotcha. I just walked in and asked for a random AIRTEX pump kit to look in the box. Caught a glimpse of the connector i needed and asked the guys permission to clip it.

Since they dont sell them seperately....

[TurboJake]

I was thinking of doing that, however how safe would this me?

the oem bung is well insulated with a plastic clip- am I looking at rolling the dice a little if i'm jimmy-rigging electricity+highpressure gaspumps?

It would be fine. The problem would happen if your connections aren't secure. The likelihood of anything starting a fire is minimal at best. Gasoline itself doesn't burn, it's the vapor. The concentration of fuel vapor in the system is what prevents fire in the first place.

Think about it, The fuel level senders on our cars are a bare wire with a specific resistance per length. that is wrapped around on the bottom, and the float is a conductive metal slide that slides up and down on the bare wire. When the wire breaks, it's bouncing around and grounding out against the center pole (That is the signal electrode that goes to the cluster). This is what causes the infamous bouncing fuel level needle. I've had it happen to myself and it's really kinda funny to watch.



That analogy is only slightly flawed, because of the amperage, while it can make a microspark, it's highly unlikely.

So, for one. The mixture of fuel vapor and oxygen needs to be perfect in order for even fire to occur. The system is sealed and oxygen can't get in, unless it's grossly uncared for.

Two, the factory one is a nut and a threaded rod. While more secure than a spade connector, it's still possible to arc.

and three, They've been using spade connectors in factory pumps for ages. Example: The datsun S12 in my sig.

The fuel pump uses spade connectors not unlike what you would use.




If you can find an airtex one, great. But I wouldn't hesitate to use spades.

If you really wanted to, you could also use the spade connector, solder the connector to the pump, and put a rubber boot over it all. But that would be pretty permanent.

[Mr. Burns]

you got me convinced Jake, thanks for the information:)

[TurboJake]

No prob.

Also, if you wanted to order one in, just in case. It's $10

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VPN-94-615/