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    Car won't start

    OK Guy's

    First time i have had this problem.

    Car will not start and here is what I have done to eliminate possible problems.

    New battery
    Changed crank position sensor
    Changed spark plugs
    Changed rotor and dist. cap
    Car turns over real well new starter
    Alternator was checked and passed, also bought a new one. Car started after replacing alternator
    I'm wondering if the injectors are bad?
    Checked all the fuses and relays
    New coil
    Plenty of fuel. Took hose off and it squirted 10 feet
    Doesn't smell like it's flooding
    Cleaned MAF
    All ground cables are attached

    Thanks for your help
    Barry
    Last edited by barry; 03-22-2012, 01:06 PM.

    #2
    gl lol

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      #3
      is it cranking? have you checked your fuel pump? Fuel filter?


      1987 - 325e Project / DD

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        #4
        Do you hear your fuel pump?
        Make sure you have your firing order on point

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          #5
          The starter is new and it cranks well..
          The fuel blows out the hose, I took it off to check.
          I think it was the alternator, all my dash lights came on, I'm waiting for a new one to arrive. Although the old alternator works according to auto zone, I took it to them after I had cleaned it up, there was some corrosion etc. If I had been thinking right I would've taken it prior to monking with it. also checked spark plug wiring Vs Distributor
          Anyway waiting for the new one to arrive.
          Thanks Guy's

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            #6
            A bad alternator won't prevent the engine from starting, though it will cause the battery to dies while the car is being driven.

            Fuel "spraying 10 feet" means absolutely nothing. The only valid check is to see what the rain pressure is when cranking the engine. Since the possible causes of a no start condition vary according to model and production date, we can be of more help if we know what you have. But the first checks would be to see if there is spark when cranking, correct rail pressure, and injector firings. The last two tests require a pressure gauge and a noid light.
            The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
            Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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              #7
              Thanks Jean it's 1988 325is, MFG date 4/88. I have a BMW mechanic coming buy on Monday to take a look. My injectors will be changed out in the meantime, there old.

              Barry

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                #8
                what motor do you have? it could be that the ignition coil is faulty? if its motronic m20 it could be the tdc/ sinc sensor has failed. there is two sensors on the left side of the bellhousing running off the ring gear and one that runs of a second point that runs off a single point to let the car know tdc on cylinder one should be triggered and to start the car. another issue with this is fillings on the end of that sensor, aftermarket ringgears that dont have that sinc point in the right place, or at all.

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                  #9
                  are you getting spark? fuel to the rail? whats your compression?

                  1987 BMW 325ic - Emma

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                    #10
                    hes getting fuel. even if its poor, which i dont think it is. and poor compression. the car will still start. lack of fuel it wont. but that is ruled out i think. if the car has flooded then it will have NO compression and wont start.

                    perhaps try a few drops of oil down the plug holes into the cylinders and give it another go? it cant hurt.

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                      #11
                      Dang you've replaced a lot. Double check your fuses.. even if the 's' isn't broken a fuse can still go bad. I'd say buy all new ones and just replace 'em. But I'm sure you know what you're doing more than I do... GL.
                      sigpic

                      1999 528it - Daily Driver “Dad Wagon”
                      1991 325is - 2.8L Budget Stroker Garage Slut
                      1991 318is - Sold
                      1986 325 - Sold

                      Instagram - Lamoursum

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                        #12
                        Didn't see any mention of trying another DME?!
                        BimmerHeads
                        Classic BMW Specialists
                        Santa Clarita, CA

                        www.BimmerHeads.com

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                          #13
                          DME is next all the stuff I changed was cheap and needed to be done. The only thing That s original are injectors, and DME so I'm going to change them ASAP.
                          Put all new fuses, checked relays. Need to check spark.

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                            #14
                            How many miles are on the engine? We have some cars come into the shop that will crank and crank and crank. We pull out the spark plugs, put a few drops of oil inside the cylinders, re-install the spark plugs, and it fires right up. IF you are getting spark, fuel, your timing is right, and you don't have any electrical problems, then you have no compression.

                            Pull out a plug, and hold it to an engine or body ground (They're connected) if you crank it, and see spark, you'll know its good, if not, check your timing on your rotor, and also check the connection from the distributor cap to the main ignition coil.

                            DME's rarely fail, and it should be the absolute last thing to replace even if you are diagnosing and not just shotgunning repairs.

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                              #15
                              Ok so I'm getting plenty of spark I have 535k miles on the engine and runs real strong.
                              Thanks Brass drummer for your input.

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