Help! i need some body, HELP! not just anybody

[Alpinem10]

pretty catchy huh...

seriously tho i need some help trouble shooting my e30. here are 2 links to my youtube channel that have the videos..

the lower idle video is a RARE thing for this car. it usally idles around 1300-2000 pending on out side temp.

ive talked to a local shop in birmingham (Vines BMW) and they are leading with the info ive givin them over the phone, that is is a vacuum issue and not a IACV. i believe it is the IACV due to in part of talking to a tech, he told me to lightly shake it side to side( in a rolling motion) and see if it rattles, which it does not. how ever if you go forward and back ( almost in a shufflnig dice motion) if you were still holding it does rattle.

any legit imput would be helpfull.

video one suprisingly low idle(rarity it seems) but a ruff sounding one. almost sounds like a cammed v8.

http://youtu.be/zsJoW_oWt0Y

video two. small test drive not fast but you can notice after i "bliped" the throttle you can see the idle about 1400. also notice that in higher rpm it seems to clear it self out.

http://youtu.be/acI8CX8s-w8

ps yes i know the exhaust is broke.

[Nsquared97]

First off, be sure to include some info on your car. I am guessing it's an ETA based on the tach, but we can't really help much if we have no idea what the car is.

Anywho, I will say I know very little about ETA's, but I would definitely check for vacuum leaks, and also check the IAC. Do you have a Bentley repair manual? They are a great source of info for troubleshooting things like this.

[jlevie]

Here you go... Work your way through each item in the list below without skipping any steps and you will fix the idle problem.


Idle or hard starting problems are most commonly caused by intake leaks and/or
a sticky or defective Idle Control Valve (ICV). The only reliable method of
locating intake leaks is to have a smoke test run on the intake and crank case
and to test the brake booster with a gage and vacuum pump. The complete list
of possible causes of an intake leak is:

Intake boot
Throttle body gasket
ICV hoses & connections
Brake booster, hoses, and connections
Crank case breather hose
Evaporative control hoses, valve, and expansion tank
Fuel pressure regulator & hose
Injector seals
Valve cover gaskets & bungs
Oil filler cap
Dip stick o-rings
Oil return tube o-rings

While leaks in some of those can be found by inspection or by spraying carb
cleaner on suspect areas, not finding leaks that way doesn't eliminate the
possibility. Only a smoke test will really work.

Once the possibility of intake leaks is eliminated, the ICV needs to be
removed and cleaned with carb cleaner until the vane inside moves freely. When
the ignition is switched on you should be able to feel vibration from the
ICV. If no vibration the ICV is bad, there's a problem with its wiring or
connector, there's a problem with the TPS, or the DME (or Idle Control Module
(ICM) on an ETA car) is faulty.

For the DME (or ICM) to control idle, the idle switch in the TPS must work
correctly. The switch should close when the throttle stop is 0.030-0.060" off
the idle stop screw.

The fuel system should be tested via the suite of tests in the Bentley manual
as invalid rail pressure can be a contributor to idle and starting problems. A
simple injector check is to pull the injectors, jumper the fuel relay to run
the pump, and see if the injectors are leaking. You can also point the
injectors into a towel, remove the coil wire, and crank the engine to see if
all of the injectors appear to be spraying in a similar fashion. The best
approach to possible injector problems is to have the injectors cleaned and
flow tested. Since raw fuel can or will be released in these tests, have a
fire extinguisher handy.

While a bad check valve in the high pressure pump can result in longer than
normal cranking, if the fuel system is working as it is supposed to the rail
will reach normal pressure in a few turns of the engine. A weak pump, clogged
filter or leaking FPR in conjunction with a failed check valve can result in
longer cranking.

The O2 sensor can be a contributor to idle problems. The O2 sensor is a
scheduled maintenance item with a useful life of no more than 100k. If the
sensor has that mileage or more (or is of unknown age), replace it.

The AFM can be a contributor. If the vane doesn't move freely or the
resistance track is worn the DME may be receiving invalid data from the
AFM. And if someone has fiddled with the bypass air adjustment the DME may be
unable to stabilize idle. The bypass air adjustment should only be adjusted
per the procedure in the Bentley and with an exhaust gas analyzer. And even
then everything else associated with engine management has to first be
operating properly. If the AFM becomes a suspect, replacement with a good used
unit is the best approach.

Improperly adjusted or malfunctioning valves will affect idle and starting. As
can compression issues from ring or cylinder wear. A valve adjustment is
called for every 15k. A useful diagnostic is to run compression (dry and wet)
and leak down tests on the engine. Aged ignition wires, plugs, distributor
cap, or rotor can cause problems. Insulation does break down with time and
heat. And since the youngest E30 is going on 20 years old, if the ignition
system is original or the plugs are old replacement is indicated.

Although not usually a problem, a bad DME temp sensor is a possibility. That
generally won't cause an unstable idle, but can cause hard cold or hard hot
starts and/or a rough idle. As can problems with the timing reference
sensors. Although not commonly encountered, a bad harmonic balancer on an
M20B25 or M30 engine will cause problems.

When all other possibilities have been eliminated and idle or starting
problems persist, replacement of the DME, or if applicable the ICM, is
indicated.

[Alpinem10]

First off, be sure to include some info on your car. I am guessing it's an ETA based on the tach, but we can't really help much if we have no idea what the car is.

Anywho, I will say I know very little about ETA's, but I would definitely check for vacuum leaks, and also check the IAC. Do you have a Bentley repair manual? They are a great source of info for troubleshooting things like this.

what all do you wanna know, i dont know all the little odds n ends yet but more than welcome to give what i know.

year 84
make 318i
color alpine white
i know it had a priemuin sound, but about to be by passed.

[ethirtydavid]

:dot:

[Nsquared97]

what all do you wanna know, i dont know all the little odds n ends yet but more than welcome to give what i know.

year 84
make 318i
color alpine white
i know it had a priemuin sound, but about to be by passed.

Generally just the year, engine, maybe trans although not that important for this specific problem. Also any mods to the system in question is helpful to know. Basically the easier you make it for us to help you, the more helpful we can be for you.

That said, check through everything Jlevie posted, he know's his stuff.

[DavidCole]

Generally just the year, engine, maybe trans although not that important for this specific problem. Also any mods to the system in question is helpful to know. Basically the easier you make it for us to help you, the more helpful we can be for you.

That said, check through everything Jlevie posted, he know's his stuff.

That
generally won't cause an unstable idle, but can cause hard cold or hard hot
starts and/or a rough idle. As can problems with the timing reference
sensors. Although not commonly encountered, a bad harmonic balancer on an
M20B25 or M30 engine will cause problems.

[Alpinem10]

you have to remember i have the m10 here.

Update to car. found out where i was leaking from, i take it there was suppost to be a sensor or some kinda braket that bolts to the inner side of the head (manifold/driver side). put a standard bolt in that to stop the leak. car actually starts and runs alittle better. still have ruff how ever smoother( if that makes any sense) idle.

took the car to Vines automotive and have a m10 specialist look over the car. he found a couple issues with vacume hoses and as well as the elbow that the IACV sits on. calling monday to order new parts and will post up engine picture here in a little while to show what im talking about.

[Alpinem10]

here is the elbow and the random vacuum line



IMG_0699 by bugeyedra, on Flickr


here is the whole( has a shiny bolt in it now) that i pluged to stop the leak


IMG_5714 by bugeyedra, on Flickr