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    Maintenance Shopping list

    See update list below with questions

    Putting down a shopping list for some well due maintenance: timing belt (and waterpump while at it) and ignition. I already have air-oil-fuel filter. Oil change will be done after the above is done. Anything else I should replace while the rad is out and the front of the engine is off?

    Anything I am missing or I can go without?

    Updated list:

    Gasket for Thermostat Housing
    Crankshaft Seal Front 48 X 65 X 10
    Rubber Seal for Timing Belt Cover
    Gasket for Front Engine Cover
    Seal for Camshaft and Intermediate Shaft 38 X 50 X 7 mm (2 Per Car)
    Cam Flange O-Ring (RED)
    Water Pump Gasket
    Thermostat O-Ring 60 X 3.5
    Water Pump (Single Outlet) NOTE: Also use- (1) 11 51 1 722 677 gasket
    Belt Alternator 10 X 965
    Tensioner Spring for Timing Belt Adjusting Pulley Assembly
    Copper Washer 12 X 17 X 1.5 mm Oil Pan Drain Plug
    Ignition Rotor Bolt-On Type
    Distributor Cap
    Timing Belt Kit Contains: (1) Timing Belt (1) Adjusting Pulley (1) Mileage Sticker
    Thermostat 80 deg. C

    Car has been in storage for the winter, any value in starting her up before doing all the maintenance work?
    Last edited by Vspec; 04-09-2012, 09:15 AM.
    01/88 325is re-assembly required - Garage recluse - Parts pile growing

    #2
    I would ck the dist. cap and wires. If the cap can be cleaned and dressed with no arcing I would forgo. Same with the leads, if they ohm out and no problems I would not change. I would also wait on the fan clutch if not needed. While the rad. is out I would replace/inspect the motor mounts if questionable. The rad drain plug is plastic and cracks sometimes when twisted. The oil filter bypass gasket replacement kit is cheap insurance. The tooth adjusters along with the brackets on the P/S pump can be a PITA if someone has used the caveman approach to mx. They are cheap also a new P/S reservoir/filter is money well spent if it's original. Scope out the rack well while your down there. If it's drooling, you will be right back there. The list is long if you want to be worry free. Get some Yammabond 3 or comparable to stick the H2O pump gasket. Buy a couple of these gaskets in case you bugger it they are cheap cheap. Drill a a air bleed hole in your new thermostat at the top. It helps with the bleed.
    Last edited by Eddie Haskell; 03-26-2012, 09:44 AM.

    Comment


      #3
      The rack is leaking, I know that. Once the car is inspected I will have access to a lift and tackle it then.

      The idea is to do the TB and what ever else is easily done while a bunch of parts are off and then get ready for the inspection.
      01/88 325is re-assembly required - Garage recluse - Parts pile growing

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        #4
        Updated list with questions.
        01/88 325is re-assembly required - Garage recluse - Parts pile growing

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          #5
          Use the stock (80C) thermostat.

          If the front main or intermediate shaft seals aren't leaking, don't bother to replace them. The cam shaft seal and o-ring probably do need replacement. Unless missing, you won't need the timing belt tensioner spring/pin.

          What almost all E30's need, unless replaced in the last 6-8 years, is all parts of the colling system (hoses, radiator, expansion tank, & cap).
          The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
          Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by jlevie View Post
            Use the stock (80C) thermostat.
            Thanks, I could not find which one was stock.

            Originally posted by jlevie View Post
            If the front main or intermediate shaft seals aren't leaking, don't bother to replace them.
            Sadly, I won't know until I got it all opened up :(

            Originally posted by jlevie View Post
            The cam shaft seal and o-ring probably do need replacement. Unless missing, you won't need the timing belt tensioner spring/pin.
            Cam shaft seal and o-ring were on the list, spring is cheap.

            Originally posted by jlevie View Post
            What almost all E30's need, unless replaced in the last 6-8 years, is all parts of the colling system (hoses, radiator, expansion tank, & cap).
            Again, I won't know until I got it all opened up and trying to gauge their state when on the car is less than ideal.

            I have decided to skip ignition wire and plugs as I can get to those without having to remove part of the cooling system.
            01/88 325is re-assembly required - Garage recluse - Parts pile growing

            Comment


              #7
              To change ignition wires, if the car is they way it is supposed to be, does require removal of the fan and waterpump pulley. On an M20B25 engine the CPS, Cylinder ID, & oil pressure wiring are routed through a plastic chase that clips to the timing cover behind the water pump pulley. That chase keeps those wires from rubbing on pulley. To change ignition wires you have to get to the wiring chase.

              You frequently find that chase missing or broken. The parts are cheap and easy to replace when doing the timing belt.
              The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
              Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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