Pass side power window failed...troubleshooting

[tomfree]

I've been really lazy, as this failed months ago, but I finally got around to it today. I'm baffled. Car is an '87 is. Here are the symptoms:

- Pass. side power window does not work
- Drivers side window works
- Sunroof works
- Passenger side window switch lights up

What I've tried:
- Reset the power window breaker on the dash
- Checked the fuse for the power windows
- Swapped driver side switch with passenger side switch
- Tried a "known good" used motor

I figured it was just a motor, so I bought a used one that was tested and proven to work. Right now, I have the door panel off, the moisture barrier off, and the motor out. I've tried both the original motor and the known good motor. They both do exactly the same thing. When I hit the switch, I hear a small click in the motor, but the gear does not move. I can move both motors with a 4mm hex in the emergency roll up socket in the motor, so I know both motors move relatively freely.

The culprit is likely a wiring issue, but I am simply not good with wiring. I searched for similar "one side works, one side doesn't" threads, but didn't find much that was useful.

Thoughts and suggestions?

[jlevie]

Check the voltage at the motor when you try to operate the window. If you see 12v, check the voltage from the motor to ground. It should be zero and something above that indicates a bad ground. If you don't see 12v at the motor, there is a high resistance in the wiring. The first place I'd look would at the body to door connector.

[tomfree]

I hate sounding like such a noob...

Jim - I checked the connector for the power window motor with my multimeter. When I press the window switch, I see a brief spike to a little over 1V, and then it settles to about .03v.

Yeah... that's .03v. Neither one of those figures sounds correct at ALL. They're orders of magnitude off. I was expecting to see 12V when I pushed the switch. Is it possible for a bad ground to have that severe of an effect...or do I have my multimeter on the wrong setting?

The latter is possible...wiring is not my strong suit. It's just a basic Radio Shack $20 model that does impedance, voltage. and not much else. I tried the "plug it into the wall" test, and it comes back with ~123v, which leads me to think that it's working correctly and that I have it set correctly.

I'll check body to door connector to see if I can see anything obviously wrong.

[85e325]

Tom, I'm having almost the exact same problem. However, niether motor I have for the driver's side do anything(not even a click) when I plug it into the harness, yet they work fine through a separte power sorce. I've taken all the same steps that you have. I have yet to check voltage yet because my multimeter is at work. I'll post my findings once I know. This really has me baffled...

[b*saint]

Its because BMW can't make window regulators to save their life.

[tomfree]

Its because all European car makers can't make window regulators to save their life.

FTFY

My e46 ate 2 regulators in the drivers door and 1 in the rear drivers side door. I had a Mk IV Jetta that had a failed regulator under warranty.

[rhymenocerous]

Any luck

Tom, just wanted to follow up and see if you had any further luck diagnosing this - I've the exact same issue as you described and am at a loss apart from just starting to replace stuff, which I don't want to do randomly.

[wodcutr]

Have you cleaned the pins in the connector that goes from the door to the a pillar? I am guessing that is where you are getting a bad connection. Clean all the pins with electric cleaner and maybe even an emery board, then insert some dielectric grease. Problem solved!