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    Oil drain plug dripping! Any temp fix?

    Its dripping like 20 drips a day.. Any temporary fix? Im not feeling taking that bastard of a pan out atm. I think it has the next size bolt than oem and it has the rubber washer. Is that stuff autoparts sell trusty? The bolts that have the rubber tht expands in the pan hole to seal..


    One of the best threads you will ever read
    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=221813

    Nice trailer of my e30
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TTjtG...e_gdata_player

    If i sold you something please leave feedback here
    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=217142

    #2
    I'd just keep topping it up until my next oil change. If it's been a while, I'd just change the oil now and replace it.

    Should have a copper crush washer to seal it.
    1974.5 Jensen Healey : 2003 330i/5

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      #3
      I would go to the yard and pull a OEM one for free.99

      There shouldn't be rubber down there, it's all sealed with copper metal

      If not, try thicker oil

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        #4
        This (http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/) and some RTV sealant. It works for my stripped drain plug.

        Originally posted by SpasticDwarf;n6449866
        Honestly I built it just to have a place to sit and listen to Hotline Bling on repeat.

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          #5
          I use 20-50 plus a quart of lucas oil stabilizer so i dont think i can go thicker... I changed the oil like 3 weeks ago and then for the first time
          I noticed the leak, went to a fellow mech and he did the next size plug job thus he changed the oil again.. And 4-5 days after it started leaking again so ive changed the oil twice in 3 weeks... I was planning in fixing that thing as i cant stand the oil puddle anymore.. Will teflon And a copper washer help?


          One of the best threads you will ever read
          http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=221813

          Nice trailer of my e30
          http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TTjtG...e_gdata_player

          If i sold you something please leave feedback here
          http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=217142

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            #6
            Yeah, just don't go crazy over it; it is just a car, and while it's frustrating, letting little things like this make you crazy, while it is incredibly easy, will wear you down.

            Just get all the OEM stuff. I've never had a problem after going OEM if I had a problem before. Chewed through 2 guibos and was ready to call it quits until I pulled an OEM guibo from the yard, and even though it's used, it's held up longer than my first 2 guibos; plus I have no vibrations like I did before. Granted I installed my first one wrong, afterrhe second one was toast, I was pissed; dropping the exhaust to be able to reach the tranny to get to the guibo isn't exactly easy, especially by myself.

            Had a huge coolant leak at one point that just wouldn't stop. I tried 3 or 4 times to fix the problem until I eventually just bypassed my Throttle Body Heater. THEN, my thermostat hosing gave up on me and started leaking coolant.. I was pissed.. So I manned up and fixed that with a trip to the yard. If that wasn't enough, the fan ate through my hose because I didn't fit it on right. Replaced that and fixed it better. All in all it was 4 weeks of hell, but now that it's finally over.. Everytime I turn my key, I can't help but smile

            Keep your head up; just remember that after this problem is over and done with, you'll be able to once again fully enjoy your ride, and that makes it all worth it in the end.

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              #7
              Originally posted by schtozo View Post
              .. I was planning in fixing that thing as i cant stand the oil puddle anymore.. Will teflon And a copper washer help?
              Yea, four or five layers of teflon tape works for me. My problem is that when we tapped the pan for a larger plug ( DBag seller sold me a pan with stripped drain plug), it wasn't perfectly straight, so the bolt doesn't crush down the washer effectively...drip drip drip. Teflon tape slows it a LOT.
              --Will

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                #8
                Originally posted by CarsSuck View Post
                Yea, four or five layers of teflon tape works for me. My problem is that when we tapped the pan for a larger plug ( DBag seller sold me a pan with stripped drain plug), it wasn't perfectly straight, so the bolt doesn't crush down the washer effectively...drip drip drip. Teflon tape slows it a LOT.
                This exact same thing happened to me... I fixed with a fumoto valve and sealant, it seems to work fine.

                Originally posted by SpasticDwarf;n6449866
                Honestly I built it just to have a place to sit and listen to Hotline Bling on repeat.

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                  #9
                  Just drain the oil. No drips. Solved.
                  sigpic"If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." -Ferdinand Porsche
                  The ugly car: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=209713

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by JinormusJ View Post
                    I would go to the yard and pull a OEM one for free.99

                    There shouldn't be rubber down there, it's all sealed with copper metal

                    If not, try thicker oil
                    Are you for real?


                    OP, go to vatozone, and buy a new copper washer - they come in little packs of M10/M12/M14 washers. This is not complicated.

                    Ich gehöre nicht zur Baader-Meinhof Gruppe

                    Originally posted by Top Gear
                    Just imagine waking up and remembering you're Mexican.

                    Every time you buy a car with DSC/ESC, Jesus kills a baby seal. With a kitten.


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                      #11
                      As mentioned, teflon tape will probably affect a temporary fix. The long term fix would be a properly done Timesert. A pro can do that with the pan on the engine.
                      The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                      Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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                        #12
                        Hey! Saludos!
                        I had the same problem with my '87. I had bought the helicoil to eventually fix it for good but until the time came (which never did cause I sold it) I used Teflon with brass a washer. Worked well with no drips.

                        Now I have a much bigger leak on my '90. I replaced the main seal since the tranny was repaired but the leak continues (its the oil crank gasket). It leaves a mess so I have to fix it (and the alternator which began to act up last week)! Wow, this baby is a really BMW (Bleeding My Wallet)!

                        Take care!
                        Victor
                        Rides...
                        E30 325i - 1990
                        F30 328i - 2014 (DD)
                        F25 X3 - 2016 (Family car)
                        1974 - 2002 (The ruler of the stable) SOLD

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                          #13
                          the threads aren't supposed to be liquid tight - that's what the crush washer is for. so long as the threads are holding the plug, a new washer should fix it.

                          Ich gehöre nicht zur Baader-Meinhof Gruppe

                          Originally posted by Top Gear
                          Just imagine waking up and remembering you're Mexican.

                          Every time you buy a car with DSC/ESC, Jesus kills a baby seal. With a kitten.


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                            #14
                            Just did this...

                            Originally posted by jlevie View Post
                            As mentioned, teflon tape will probably affect a temporary fix. The long term fix would be a properly done Timesert. A pro can do that with the pan on the engine.
                            I just did a Timesert last night. I'm certainly no pro but I did it on the car and it took only about 20 minutes (I could do it again in 10 now probably). The only downside is that it's $$$ for the kit (around $70 I think). This was one of those jobs that I bought the tool for and then put it off because I thought it was going to be a PITA, but ended up being easy.

                            If the threads are stripped, this will fix it. However it will still drip a little if you don't have the right crush washer.

                            The pan is easy to drill and tap (with the right tools) while on the car. I did it on ramps, there was plenty of room. I would probably recommend just going up a size and forgetting the Timecert if you're on a budget. The aluminum is easy to drill if take your time and are careful.

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